El Torro cam....leaving ET on the table?
11-19-2011, 06:27 PM
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El Torro cam....leaving ET on the table? My car has.......
El Torro Cam (230/230 .612/.592 111+4)
TEA stage 2 243 heads milled to 61cc's
Fast 92
NW ported 92 TB
ARH headers
Ram air(may be chris1313)
UD pulleys and all the little stuff
Built 4L60E and Yank 4k stall
3.73 gears in a 12 bolt
full weight
Car made 432/39x to the wheels through the cutout
went 11.13@121mph with a 1.59 60' and a little wheel spin
So my question is should I be looking for a better cam for the track? 1/4 mile times are more of my concern than street manners. Don't really wanna push past 6800-6900 since its a stock bottom end........Thoughts?
El Torro Cam (230/230 .612/.592 111+4)
TEA stage 2 243 heads milled to 61cc's
Fast 92
NW ported 92 TB
ARH headers
Ram air(may be chris1313)
UD pulleys and all the little stuff
Built 4L60E and Yank 4k stall
3.73 gears in a 12 bolt
full weight
Car made 432/39x to the wheels through the cutout
went 11.13@121mph with a 1.59 60' and a little wheel spin
So my question is should I be looking for a better cam for the track? 1/4 mile times are more of my concern than street manners. Don't really wanna push past 6800-6900 since its a stock bottom end........Thoughts?
11-19-2011, 10:48 PM
#4
I would not blame the cam as Chrs1313 put down 422 hp with just the cam.I would look into making a custom y pipe to pick up some power. Chris had one made for his car and it picked up a bunch of TQ,like 30 or a little bit more. Look up his old threads from a year or so ago,he detailed his improvements.Your car full weight needs the TQ.
11-20-2011, 02:52 PM
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I would not blame the cam as Chrs1313 put down 422 hp with just the cam.I would look into making a custom y pipe to pick up some power. Chris had one made for his car and it picked up a bunch of TQ,like 30 or a little bit more. Look up his old threads from a year or so ago,he detailed his improvements.Your car full weight needs the TQ.
Do you think it would be worth the gain over the ARH Y-pipe? I think it'll get true duals dumped before the axle before I'd build a Y-pipe
11-20-2011, 04:12 PM
#6
I would hang some 3 or 3.5 inch pipe off the collectors into a set of small mufflers and dump that under the car, don't even bother with the true dual x or any of that.. go big enough with the exhaust tubing and it will run very much like there's nothing there at all.
Would it pick something up? Easy way to tell would be to drop the exhaust off and just run it open headers on a dyno, and see what it does.
Getting weight out of the car would make more of a difference then putting a different cam in it IMO. That weight is hurting it more then the cam is. Even if you stuck a trex or the like in it (if it will even clear with the milled heads) you may only pick up top end power and lose some down low... heavy car won't like that much.
Another thing that could be done to help, would be to get rid of the wheel spin by going to a taller/bigger tire, and change the rear gear to a 4.30... effectively getting you to a 4.10 with the same size you are running now. You should still be able to make it thru the traps with your rpm limit, and that added ratio will help a heavy car alot too.
That yank converter can be improved upon as well. An 8 inch converter that stalls around 4800 to 5000 would likely run alot better as well... won't be all that great to drive but it will run better. Ditching the 4ljunkie and putting a TH400 in the car would also help. That, will really hurt the street manners, but the track performance it will do wonders for.
Would it pick something up? Easy way to tell would be to drop the exhaust off and just run it open headers on a dyno, and see what it does.
Getting weight out of the car would make more of a difference then putting a different cam in it IMO. That weight is hurting it more then the cam is. Even if you stuck a trex or the like in it (if it will even clear with the milled heads) you may only pick up top end power and lose some down low... heavy car won't like that much.
Another thing that could be done to help, would be to get rid of the wheel spin by going to a taller/bigger tire, and change the rear gear to a 4.30... effectively getting you to a 4.10 with the same size you are running now. You should still be able to make it thru the traps with your rpm limit, and that added ratio will help a heavy car alot too.
That yank converter can be improved upon as well. An 8 inch converter that stalls around 4800 to 5000 would likely run alot better as well... won't be all that great to drive but it will run better. Ditching the 4ljunkie and putting a TH400 in the car would also help. That, will really hurt the street manners, but the track performance it will do wonders for.
11-20-2011, 06:46 PM
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I would hang some 3 or 3.5 inch pipe off the collectors into a set of small mufflers and dump that under the car, don't even bother with the true dual x or any of that.. go big enough with the exhaust tubing and it will run very much like there's nothing there at all.
Would it pick something up? Easy way to tell would be to drop the exhaust off and just run it open headers on a dyno, and see what it does.
Getting weight out of the car would make more of a difference then putting a different cam in it IMO. That weight is hurting it more then the cam is. Even if you stuck a trex or the like in it (if it will even clear with the milled heads) you may only pick up top end power and lose some down low... heavy car won't like that much.
Another thing that could be done to help, would be to get rid of the wheel spin by going to a taller/bigger tire, and change the rear gear to a 4.30... effectively getting you to a 4.10 with the same size you are running now. You should still be able to make it thru the traps with your rpm limit, and that added ratio will help a heavy car alot too.
That yank converter can be improved upon as well. An 8 inch converter that stalls around 4800 to 5000 would likely run alot better as well... won't be all that great to drive but it will run better. Ditching the 4ljunkie and putting a TH400 in the car would also help. That, will really hurt the street manners, but the track performance it will do wonders for.
Would it pick something up? Easy way to tell would be to drop the exhaust off and just run it open headers on a dyno, and see what it does.
Getting weight out of the car would make more of a difference then putting a different cam in it IMO. That weight is hurting it more then the cam is. Even if you stuck a trex or the like in it (if it will even clear with the milled heads) you may only pick up top end power and lose some down low... heavy car won't like that much.
Another thing that could be done to help, would be to get rid of the wheel spin by going to a taller/bigger tire, and change the rear gear to a 4.30... effectively getting you to a 4.10 with the same size you are running now. You should still be able to make it thru the traps with your rpm limit, and that added ratio will help a heavy car alot too.
That yank converter can be improved upon as well. An 8 inch converter that stalls around 4800 to 5000 would likely run alot better as well... won't be all that great to drive but it will run better. Ditching the 4ljunkie and putting a TH400 in the car would also help. That, will really hurt the street manners, but the track performance it will do wonders for.
For now I'm sticking with the 60E trans, at least until it pukes.....What converter would you recommend? Would it help to have it re-stalled or just give up on it and go with something else? A higher stall than it has now wouldn't bother me on the street.
As far as weight reduction....I have a few ideas like ABS delete, rear seat delete. and swapping the stock hood for a fiberglass hood but that will all be offset with the 6-point cage that must go in this winter. At this point I don't really want to drop anything else.........Thanks again, Mike
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11-20-2011, 08:24 PM
#8
I would call Greg @ FTI and see if he can restall that converter you have. If you have dyno results from what you have, and can give him all the spec's on the car I'm 100% that he can either restall the one you have, or build you one that will work better. Best would be to call him and talk to him. I have yet to talk to a single person that has dealt with him and not had good things to say and good to excellent results.
11-21-2011, 06:35 AM
#9
I would hang some 3 or 3.5 inch pipe off the collectors into a set of small mufflers and dump that under the car, don't even bother with the true dual x or any of that.. go big enough with the exhaust tubing and it will run very much like there's nothing there at all.
Would it pick something up? Easy way to tell would be to drop the exhaust off and just run it open headers on a dyno, and see what it does.
Getting weight out of the car would make more of a difference then putting a different cam in it IMO. That weight is hurting it more then the cam is. Even if you stuck a trex or the like in it (if it will even clear with the milled heads) you may only pick up top end power and lose some down low... heavy car won't like that much.
Another thing that could be done to help, would be to get rid of the wheel spin by going to a taller/bigger tire, and change the rear gear to a 4.30... effectively getting you to a 4.10 with the same size you are running now. You should still be able to make it thru the traps with your rpm limit, and that added ratio will help a heavy car alot too.
That yank converter can be improved upon as well. An 8 inch converter that stalls around 4800 to 5000 would likely run alot better as well... won't be all that great to drive but it will run better. Ditching the 4ljunkie and putting a TH400 in the car would also help. That, will really hurt the street manners, but the track performance it will do wonders for.
Would it pick something up? Easy way to tell would be to drop the exhaust off and just run it open headers on a dyno, and see what it does.
Getting weight out of the car would make more of a difference then putting a different cam in it IMO. That weight is hurting it more then the cam is. Even if you stuck a trex or the like in it (if it will even clear with the milled heads) you may only pick up top end power and lose some down low... heavy car won't like that much.
Another thing that could be done to help, would be to get rid of the wheel spin by going to a taller/bigger tire, and change the rear gear to a 4.30... effectively getting you to a 4.10 with the same size you are running now. You should still be able to make it thru the traps with your rpm limit, and that added ratio will help a heavy car alot too.
That yank converter can be improved upon as well. An 8 inch converter that stalls around 4800 to 5000 would likely run alot better as well... won't be all that great to drive but it will run better. Ditching the 4ljunkie and putting a TH400 in the car would also help. That, will really hurt the street manners, but the track performance it will do wonders for.
A lot of people out there should be writting that down....
12-01-2011, 11:40 AM
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Everyone is saying to stick with the cam so I'm gonna, just wondered if there was anything out there to look into
The weight I plan to take out of the car will be replaced with the cage that has to go in this winter
I think I'll be focusing mostly on the converter, gears, and tires for the winter
12-02-2011, 05:54 PM
#19
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There is more in it, that night the track was cold and poorly prepped so it did spin a bit off the line but not much. That was the last track day so now I gotta wait til march
Everyone is saying to stick with the cam so I'm gonna, just wondered if there was anything out there to look into
The weight I plan to take out of the car will be replaced with the cage that has to go in this winter
I think I'll be focusing mostly on the converter, gears, and tires for the winter
Everyone is saying to stick with the cam so I'm gonna, just wondered if there was anything out there to look into
The weight I plan to take out of the car will be replaced with the cage that has to go in this winter
I think I'll be focusing mostly on the converter, gears, and tires for the winter
Last edited by JPH; 12-02-2011 at 06:00 PM.
12-09-2011, 09:11 AM
#20
IMO that cam is designed the run like a reverse split, which means the better your exhaust the better it will run.
If you are still running a shitty y pipe, you have power on the table there as previously pointed out. I had 3" duals on my car when it was cammed with a 230/224 reverse split and it still picked up small amounts with open cutouts. When it was 3" duals from collectors to mufflers but 2.25" tails over the axle, it picked up .15 and 1.5mph consistent with the cutouts open. Cutting off the small tails at the muffler picked the car up. Exhaust flow is your friend.
Not that 430rwhp through an automatic is low to start with. If the converter was locked, that would be near 450rwhp in a manual trans car (it would be more if it was dynoed unlocked).
If you are still running a shitty y pipe, you have power on the table there as previously pointed out. I had 3" duals on my car when it was cammed with a 230/224 reverse split and it still picked up small amounts with open cutouts. When it was 3" duals from collectors to mufflers but 2.25" tails over the axle, it picked up .15 and 1.5mph consistent with the cutouts open. Cutting off the small tails at the muffler picked the car up. Exhaust flow is your friend.
Not that 430rwhp through an automatic is low to start with. If the converter was locked, that would be near 450rwhp in a manual trans car (it would be more if it was dynoed unlocked).