Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

I'm turning my 1LE into a drag racer. Track only no street.
So far I have forged and splayed 350
12 bolt with 4.11s
BMR stuff, stock springs and shocks
Ran 12.2 @ 115 with m6
I want to be mid 11s on motor low 10s spray.

This winter: weight reduction, drag wheels, m6 to th400 swap.

I'm having a heck of a time choosing tire and stall. I'm thinking:

4800-5200 stall but what about adding nitrous later? 4000 stall as compromise?
28x11.5 or 10.5 slick but what about drag radials?

I keep lurking here and make up my mind on slicks. Then someone posts a great 60 on dr's and I change my mind to those. Then I see someone with slicks and change my mind again. Then tubes / no tubes. I'm going crazy.

Help me start down the right road!

IllusionalTA

iTrader: (9)

Drag only absolutely no street, why not go slick, their lighter.. Drag radials are nice and give up very little other than weight to a slick and don't wander upstairs like a slick.. I'd go slick..

Converter choice should be based off your power plant.. If u know a good bit about your combo and how much power it makes and where your shifting, a good converter company can steer you Into the direction you need to go , I suggest coan.. I have great success runnin their stuff..

Gear is all according to you rpm vs mph you wanna come across the stripe at peak hp or just past it near redline.. For instance my car makes peak power 6600 or so I cross traps at 7k on a 28" tire.. Figure out your gear vs rpm that way and choose accordingly..

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Thanks - why do some people run tubes and screws and some not?

I only know I was shifting at 7000 but I only ran a few times so I never played with shift rpm much. I have no dyno sheet either.

I guess I need to decide if I want to setup for spray or NA. Can I setup for both?

Thank you!

IllusionalTA

iTrader: (9)

Oh boy I have to reply on computer lol

taner

iTrader: (6)

well, there is some compromise. i swap gears to do both, but the motor is built for spray...and lots of it. so i do give up a bit there on the motor. but i still have an m6 in the car. so i am a mere gear swap away.

whack as much weight as you can out of that *****. but bear in mind, it is amazing how much less is in the 1LE than a regular camaro. trust me i know. my harness was alot thinner than a regularly equipped f body. so many ways to trim a bit of weight that are cost effective.

g'luck, i couldn't tell you **** about a converter, lol! how much you want for that trans? i woudl prefer to find a slightly broken transmission over a functioning one, lol!!!

IllusionalTA

iTrader: (9)

With a auto, setting up for both is a bit more difficult, the converter is gonna make ornbreak your combo... You can get a middle of the road converter but it won't be optimal for both, you'll give up on both ends to be ok in the middle.. But not a bad idea if that what your looking to do..

Tubes and screws, screws to prevent wheel from spinning in tire, is a must.. Tubes some run them some don't... They hold air, whereas a slick Will leach out over a few days...

You should def find out where your car makes power and don't.. ESP with you still being a manual you can get a true interpretation of what your band looks like without a converter skewing any results... You may be shifting way too late, losing precious tenths..

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Haha! Thank you I appreciate it.

I want enough for $$ for my T56 trans to pay for my auto and stall I've been looking at the FTI's they are a really good price and I hear really good things. TH400 with brake should do me for years.

The car is now 3416 lbs no driver, without any lightening at all it is completely stock with all seats carpet bumpers heat extra floormats etc. That includes some heavy stuff like Moser 12 bolt with posi, all BMR stuff but not chrome moly, weld in BMR connectors, driveshaft loop, optima mounted in the trunk with cutoff, etc. and bigass 17" goodyear tires on 17x11.

My calculations show I can easily get to 3000 lbs with free weight reduction stuff and drag rims and tires.

I just want to go fast. I want to see how fast I can get it N/A. Then I want to see how fast I can get it with spray. It is a really beefy motor forged and splayed everything windage tray the works. I'd like to eventually hit it with a 200+ shot. When it blows up I'm going LS N/A big cube.

I 've only been to the track a few times and keep breaking stuff with the M6. I just want a trans brake, 2 step, and hang on. Also my clutch is original, still holding, but I'd rather just swap it all out and make a real drag car.

Eventually this car will have speedglass, gutted, the works, sub 3000 lbs. I have no class to run yet, I just want to get out to the track every couple weeks, get started, and decide from there what direction I want to go.

Holding air is good! Car will be parked for weeks at a time. Thank you.

It's a CC306 350ci car. I guess I should go dyno it before ripping everything apart so I can pick shift points and stall. But that will only help the NA times - I have no nitrous kit yet. I'm cheap though. Is there another way to get close to what i need without renting a trailer and paying $$$ for a dyno run? When this motor blows up I'm probably going LS but for now need to run what I got for a few years and have fun with it.

Thank you everyone
Jason

joelster

How much nitrous are you planning on spraying? If you only plan to whack it with a 125-150 i'd build it strictly for n/a runs. Mid 11's should be easily attainable just by swapping an auto with a good stall and a few goodies. You've gone 115mph already with an m6. That would be ~roughly~ 113-114 with an auto and 11.8's. A tube allows you to run very low tire pressure but they also add 7-8lbs per tire. I'd rock a slick all day on a drag car.

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Ok slicks it is!
I bought a jack and jack stands today to start tearing thing apart.

The most I would spray is 200. If it holds together I might direct port more ... It all depends what starts breaking. I built this as a 350 ci nitrous motor but have never sprayed it. Parked it for 10 years and now have the itch.

IllusionalTA

iTrader: (9)

200 should roll !

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Thank you everyone. I have made some decisions:

1) I will run nitrous sooner than later and am looking for a wet plate kit now.

2) Because of the extra mph on spray I'll get a taller slick like a 28" to go with my 4.11s

3) I will choose the convertor based on using nitrous and whatever it runs NA it runs NA I'm not going to compromise.

I'm going to turn this into my build thread and start posting pics up.

Thank you for helping me decide

IllusionalTA

iTrader: (9)

What intake ?

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Lt1 52mm

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Ok I bought a jack from costco and some jack stands last week. Today I got the car up and took the rear tires off. So I have started

I'll start taking things off and weighing them as I go. The next thing to come off will be Y-pipe to get the T56 out.

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

I got the 6 speed out this Sunday

Next is sourcing the TH400

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

subscribed

Is that a mufflex exhaust? 3.5 or 4"?

What AFR heads are you running?

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Mufflex 4" flowmaster muffler

AFR are the very first they eve made for LT1 and I added their CNC porting package, with 2.05 and 1.625 valves

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

So I weighed my street wheels
17x11 rears with rubber were 57 lbs each
17x9.5 fronts with rubber were 53 lbs each

220 lbs just in wheels and rubber LOL! How's that for weight reduction

I'm going Pro-Stars pretty light and cheap
and Hoosiers no tubes, seem to be the lightest slick.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

I would run the 10.5" slick over the 11.5". No need for more tire than that when plenty of people cut 1.30 sixty foots on them with bolt on suspensions in 4th gens. I've never ran tubes, but always wished I had. I'm sick of slicks leaking down in a few days....or a week at best. Plus I hear things are less "squirrely" at speed with tubes.

Grab yourself a drag bar or some other anti-roll bar. Between that much stall and the nitrous, you are gonna need it.

Alot of people will bust your chops for running the "old technology" cc306 cam, but I'd keep it at least for awhile. It has a proven record and works very well with nitrous....plus it's easier on springs than the newer grinds that everyone will recommend. Later on when/if you want a change.....I bet there is another couple tenths left on the table with a cam swap.

Also, you might want to think about going from the posi to a full spool since you are going to be drag only. Less rotating weight/bulletproof/always wants to go straight. You can pick one up new cheap....or used even cheaper as long as you know what spline your axles are. Your posi unit will sell for more than enough to pay for the change.

I wish you'd make a duplicate thread over in the LT1 section on here. Plenty of people who are on the same road as you or already there to talk to and learn from.

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Thank you
10.5 looks good
I'm looking at a donor car that has a BMR drag bar
I do want to swap for a spool... It's the setup that will cost me. If I do it should I change gear ratio too?