Wiring a NHRA Kill Switch - LS1TECH

Go Back   LS1TECH > RACING DEPARTMENT > Drag Racing Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Drag Racing Tech
Rules | Safety | Setups | Hardware | Methods
Sponsored by
Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center
Click Here


Wiring a NHRA Kill Switch

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-31-2013, 12:12 AM   #1
Teching In
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Florence, Alabama
Posts: 48
Default Wiring a NHRA Kill Switch

Planning out the kill switch for my trunk mounted battery. Engine is an LS2 in a 240z. This is an 11.0 car that I intend to spray in the near future. Alternator is from an F-body LS1. I already have 0 gauge + and - cables run from the battery to bulkhead connectors on my firewall, and I have branched all the constant hot circuits from that bulkhead. I understand that I have to kill not only the + voltage from the battery, but all so the + voltage from the alternator that charges the battery. Is there a way to kill the power from the alternator without running another another (or another pair) of heavy gauge cables from the alternator (in the engine compartment) all the way back to the kill switch (which is in the back of the car by the license plate)? I just don't want to add the weight of another set of heavy 15' long cables if there is another, more weight and work conscious way. With all due respect, please respond only if you have done this modification to your car, so I don't get too many speculators-I really want to know what WILL work rather than what might work. Please tell me what switch you've used. Thanks.
LS2-240z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 10:29 AM   #2
10 Second Club
 
5.3LJimmy's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 10
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Napoleonville, LA
Posts: 2,278
Default

I purchased my battery relocation kit from Burkhart which came with the switch, so I don't know what specific brand it is. You do not need to run two new cable for the alternator because it grounds to the engine block. You only need to run one 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the positive side of the battery or to the same side of the switch as the battery lead.
__________________

Fquick
5.3LJimmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 10:55 AM   #3
TECH Addict
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 13
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: jersey shore
Posts: 2,557
Default

Yeah like said, the alternator can go to the battery directly or the battery post on the switch. The other side will run up to your starter and you can use that post to run another lead to your fuse box lead etc. Its pretty simple and without seeing your actual setup I can't give you more direction.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Hyde View Post
Almost as gay as listing out all your weaksauce mods in your sig...but hey, who's judging?
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 08:10 PM   #4
Teching In
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Florence, Alabama
Posts: 48
Default

Thanks, fellas. 6 gauge is heavy enough for the distance from the alternator to the battery in the trunk? I'm not good with electrical concepts: why do I need a 1 or 2 gauge from the battery, but only a 6 from the alternator? Perhaps because you crank from the battery? I'm really exicited that I only need one wire and not two. Just a bit more coaching please.
LS2-240z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 07:46 AM   #5
10 Second Club
 
5.3LJimmy's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 10
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Napoleonville, LA
Posts: 2,278
Default

Because the wire from the battery to.the starter needs to carry the full 600-700 amp cranking capacity of the battery. The alternator only puts out 100-120 amps. The wire is sized according to amp capacity for the circuit it is completing.

Also I saw your other thread and you don't need that fancy switch.
5.3LJimmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 10:39 AM   #6
TECH Addict
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 13
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: jersey shore
Posts: 2,557
Default

I personally like to run the largest wire I can. I run my alternator wire all the way to the battery in the trunk in an fbody so its probably close to 20 feet of wire. I use 1/0 and at minimum would use 4 gauge. The greater the distance, the more resistance.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Hyde View Post
Almost as gay as listing out all your weaksauce mods in your sig...but hey, who's judging?
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 10:39 AM
LS1Tech
Pontiac Firebird




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
PLEASE HELP, STARTER PROBLEM,click,click,click,click,click 9sectruck General Maintenance & Repairs 2 09-28-2014 08:17 PM
gauges going in and out dman1982 New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech 5 08-24-2014 08:37 PM
Alternator/Battery issues need help 97 C5 LS1 WarDamnC5 Corvette Performance 0 07-16-2014 09:26 PM
Another diagnostic tip for bad LT1 behavior... mightyquickz28 LT1-LT4 Modifications 7 10-15-2010 02:17 PM
ls1 powered z car destroying alternators? aziza z Conversions & Hybrids 21 06-10-2010 07:56 PM


Tags
button, car, drag, gto, kill, killswitch, ls2, nhra, race, racing, running, starter, switch, wire, wiring


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


 

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:12 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Service - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - JOBS
Emails & Contact Details