Originally Posted by studderin

might not think about it, but some times if you put a little pressure of the shifter for the next gear, Not pulling at all just a little, more then nothing. then when you kick the clutch it goes right out if gear. noticed this with the 2step,the t56 gear think its from the helix cut in the gear (not strait cut teeth) holds them in gear when the power on going thu the gear set, so with the 2step cuts the power it takes the lash out of the gear ("unlocks" them) so it goes right out of gear into neutral, and into the next gear. I'm not a expert of t56 rebuilding,inside stuff just a idea, could be wrong. But noticed when you try to do a fast shift all in one motion when I try to "shift" before I'm off the gas. I'm too slow getting it out of gear in the super fast- clutch kick/pull gear, and end up in neutral. The little preload helps and saves the little .00004 sec head start of your arm to the foot. In the time window of the clutch kick. Not to go off topic, im so happy for ray, I can wait to get back on my car after these ray updates. And how hes killing it, blue99fbody is king badass ************

Originally Posted by FOSTER21

Real race cars have 3 pedals!

Originally Posted by Guitar

So next season you need to put a 427 and a huge 101mm or something on it lol.

Love this car. Really makes me rethink about switching mine to auto. But of course..we can't all drive like you lol.

Originally Posted by Boostedhatch

I want this car to be the first stock suspension T56 f body to run 7s.

Originally Posted by Gary Z

This is my favorite car so I need to ask another (possibly equally dopey) question. Now that you have the engine dialed in could you safely switch to a cast aluminum block? I'm thinking this could be a relatively inexpensive way to gain a tenth or two, especially with the smaller tires.

Originally Posted by blue99fbody

...i would not feel confedient in an alum block unless it was a resleaved erl or aftermarket $$$$$$. im pushing the limits of the stock iron block as it is. would like to go to a 6 bolt lsx block. plus in class racing i have a minimum weight anyway i have to be which i already have to balast the car up to so not worth the money for the rare time i get to try and take the weight out and make a hero pass

Originally Posted by Gary Z

Thanks. I was thinking of your mention of being 200 lbs overweight. I see now that was last year. You have been making hero passes - we don't expect you to make a Kamikaze pass. Thanks for showing everyone what is possible with a T-56. I hope a few others will be inspired to follow.

Originally Posted by blue99fbody

but turbo minimum weights are more than the nitrous combos

Originally Posted by nmass399

Good stuff man. Got an lsx block for sale if you want it.

Been wondering if you lift off the throttle when you shift. Sounds to me like you do but I was not sure. The turbos are calling my name but not sure if I wanna go to all the trouble.

Originally Posted by Spectre86

how long did you have the moster stage 2 twin in? Howd you like it?
Im aiming for around 900 wheel on a 7675 with a 5.3. nothing near as radical as your setup, but I figure if it worked well with your setup, it will be fine with mine.

Originally Posted by SNLPerformance

I'd recommend the LT1-SC for you, not the Level 2 twin disc.

Originally Posted by Spectre86

I thought they were the same?

Originally Posted by blue99fbody

shoot me a price on the block. and no i do not lift but what you hear is the 2 step cutting everytime i push the clutch to take the load off and help the trans live. and to be honest i would have done this a long time ago and gave up on the nitrous had i known this was gonna work this good and be this simple. i always said id never go turbo with the m6 but since real street takes a 20k+$ nitrous motor to compete i took the chance.