ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

Goal:
Run 11.50 with 90 degree heat and almost 100% humidity, it the middle of a Pennsylvania summer. So in reality the car should run 11.30’s in good air. There is 11.50 index racing that I would like to try in addition to regular weekly bracket racing. I fell short this year because of limited funds. I’m still limited trying to pay off debt and what not, but here is what I am looking at.

I’ll try and keep this updated throughout the winter and see what I can get out of it at the dyno and track next spring. I probably wont be starting any winter mods until November as I have another drag car that needs a couple things first before it goes into storage.

Current performance: 1.62 60', 11.62 @ 116mph. 1700’ DA. I had a freak 1.59 60’ at one point. (I must have rolled too far into the beams!)

Current setup:
2002 Camaro B4C
Stock LS6 Intake
Potz ported TB
Stock MAF
SLP Lid
799 heads ported by TEA
BTR stage 4 cam
ARH 1 7/8 headers, Y pipe and Magnaflow catback
stock 5.7L bottom end
A4 with an FTI 4000 stall
3.73 gear, Strange 12 bolt and 26" Nitto 555R rear tire.
front suspension is stock worn out springs and struts
rear suspension is a BMR torque arm, adjustable control arms with
Strange SA shocks.

Current weight reduction:
- front swaybar, ac compressor, abs, and a.i.r. pump, washer tank
+ steel driveshaft and frame connectors

Winter modifications & cost:
Engine:
Fast 92 intake and TB $1200
UD Pulley $200
Chris1313 ramair $200
Fast 36# injectors $300
Sell LS6 intake $(400)
Sell ported TB $(75)
85mm MAF? $40
Dyno Tune (or learn to program) $550

Weight Loss:
Lighten front bumper support
Lighten rear bumper support
Manual seat bracket
Carpet backing
Remove A/C and modify heater under the dash
Excess wiring

Maintenance:
Change engine oil
Change trans oil from type F to JD Low viscosity hygard
Change rear oil from 85W-140 to 80W-90?
New rear tires, MT ET street radial 255-16 most likely
Front wheel alignment
Battery needs replaced
Air and fuel filter replaced
Clean up minor rust spots underneath
Clean brakes (add spring to keep pads from dragging on rotors)
Grease torque arm, LCA, and anything else!
Driver’s window regulator needs replaced of a 12v mod
Inspect rocker arm trunnion wear
Check pinion angle and adjust if necessary
Inspect u joint wear

Other:
Change from 5/16 to 11/32 pushrod?
Wire up line lock
Trans 3rd gear vibration
Front springs and struts
Manual rack, remove power steering?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a very reasonable goal for the improvements that you plan on. Those 555R's on stock rims?

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

I ran the car over the hill to FJ Performance and put it on their Dynojet dyno. It made a whopping 376 hp and 365 ft-lbs.

This pull was with the converter locked. The injectors were at a 98% duty cycle so those injectors are definitely needed!

It also looks like the rev limiter is set around 6700. I thought the 2-3 shift hit it a couple times!

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

Yes, glued on to stock rims.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

fast 36# injectors are supposed to be the same injector as L67 36# injectors(3800 supercharged) I have a bunch of them from 3800 demods 8 for $120 shipped if your looking to shave a few bucks off your budget. Was there a wideband on the car at the same time as the 98% duty cycle ? what was the AFR looking like ? I would want to know that the duty cycle is not that high from being too rich before spending $ on larger injectors since if its too rich now you can lean it out and gain headroom on your duty cycle.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

Yup I run a set of L67 (SC3800) from my gtp days, think they flow 42#s you can get 6 for 20-$45 had 12 cleaned and flowed at newera, but the 2 strongest in 7 and 8

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

This can be true , but typically not with shipping included ( not that shipping is a lot for a small box) then you need to find/buy 2 sets of 6 , then weed through the ones with cracks in the tips , and theres a couple different part numbers on the white gm L67 injectors , I only ship sets with matching PN's across all 8 and inspect all tips for no cracks.

And thanks studderin for backing up its a viable option vs fast 36's , appreciate that the gtp/gs injectors are 36's they will flow more depending on psi. I also agree have them cleaned and flowed and put strongest injectors in cylinders known to run hottest , on the 3800's I always put them in the middle cylinders , my ls1 cars have all been bolt on cars so far so stock injectors have been fine , but when I need more its just a trip down my basement stairs for an answer to that problem lol

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

Thanks murph, ill keep that in mind. If they work the same no reason to pay more. Didnt get the a/ f. It may be a hair rich but from a daily use standpoint it isnt sooting the tailpipes. They are clean.

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

I got the air/fuel readings from the dyno. It was a flat 13.0 up until 6000 rpm and richened up to 12.8 until readline.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

I've got GTP/ASA injectors in my car as well - they work well.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

if the injectors were maxed out I don't think it would be able to make that climb from 13.0 to 12.8 afr at 6000 rpm ... was the 98% IDC at the same time/same pull as the 13.0/12.8 afr ? fuel filter been changed recently ?

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

Yes, same pull. Could the injectors be at a slightly lower value until 6000?
Fuel filter was changed at the beginning of the previous season. I plan to change it again this winter.

Mystery Bird

iTrader: (7)

Just wanted to mention my FAST 36# injectors are not the same as the GM ones mentioned in previous posts, moot point by this time I know but thought I'd put it out there.

I can say the weight loss alone might get you where you need to be. My winter mods last year was to lose weight only. I shed about 175lbs and went from a best of 11.01 to a 10.87.

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

I'd like to pull 100# out but I need to come up with some extra stuff to remove or fill with holes without it looking like a cut up **** box.

Originally I was figuring on Fast 36# injectors or equivalent. If the Fast works the same or close enough to the L67, then the latter looks like the budget buy for me right now.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

I don't know how much you drive this car or how but what about a re stall? I have seen people gain a couple tenths by going up 300-400 in stall and some times they come with 1 free re-stall , just throwing it out there incase you hadn't thought of it.

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

You are correct about the restall. I have it on a secondary to-do list. I was driving the car to work 1 or 2 days a week but it is mainly a weekend bracket car, ie street/strip.

I have had the converter for two years, FTI offers a free restall the first year. I don't know their specific cost, but I'd guess a restall is in the $200 range.

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

First thing for the winter modifications. I picked up this Fast 90 intake locally. It is in good shape. I think I am going with the GTP injectors and NW92TB to complement this once I save some more money.

LT194CamaroZ

iTrader: (15)

How well do you do bracket racing with a fuel injected ls motor? Going to be doing that with mine once I pull the 6 speed and install my built 4l80e and fti 4k stall. Sorry to hijack

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

The car does great, it's the driver that can't always see the tree! Once the sun goes down my lights tend to tighten up and I do a lot better. Both the street and modified class champs this year were running FI.

I just put the car in drive and steer. My biggest variable this year was tires, but from an engine stand point this thing should be able to print time slips.

LT194CamaroZ

iTrader: (15)

That's what I like to hear. Have you done anything special to make it more consistant. Heard some people that run efi leave the vehicle running between rounds so temps are completely consistent and the cars usually repeat better.