dannyz

Did you notice any measureable improvement in traction coming out of the hole?
I mostly run my car on un prepped asphalt/concrete, and am looking for some improvement in my launches.
Not listed in my sig, but already have relocation brackets, comp eng. shocks in rear and strange adjust. up front.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Mine always hooks better when my gas tank is fuller so yeah moving the battery should have the exact same effect.

Doug G

Moving the battery to the rear is said to be equal to moving the motor back 2"-3".
If you can't lighten the car, moving weight to the rear is a good thing.

joeZ96

iTrader: (3)

In my opinion, do it to cleanup the engine bay or because you need the room up front. Otherwise, not worth the time and effort.

dannyz

That's my line of thought.
Thanks.

dannyz

Have you tried it and found it didn't help?
Like 01redssa4, I found that with a full tank of gas I seem to have a much easier time getting outta the hole then with a qtr to half tank.
I am even thinking of buying a ballast box fro jegs, bolting it into the trunk well and filling it with 50-80lbs of lead shot.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

I have never understood the guys who add weight to their cars (when not weight limited) to try to get their **** to hook. To me that is going backwards. Figure out how to make it hook.

dannyz

I am running on an unprepped surface my man.
Your driving a truck that ways probably 5500 lbs, on a prepped track.
Maybe even have 4 wheel drive.
But thanks for the input.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I wouldn't add weight either unless every possible other option has been tried. Shocks front and rear, you have tried playing around with the antisquat a bunch, have all good suspension stuff in the back so that's all sound... And if more rear bias is what you're after since all that didn't solve it, pull it out if the nose first before adding it.

Once the car is going fast you are going to need a battery shutoff anyway, so at that point putting the battery in the back is a no brainer and I would absolutely do it. Not difficult to do, just do it legal and not with one of those stupid boxes that go in the passenger wheel well that aren't sealed that the track won't let you run with, put it in a sealed box, the plastic ones are cheap enough, and the plastic won't short out on anything either.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Seems like lots of people are giving advice based on track rules, unlimited budget, and unlimited time. Maybe one or all of those dont apply to him. He may be looking for something quick and cheap to gain traction on his unprepped surface. Adding weight to the back will accomplish this, plain and simple.

sillysspeed

iTrader: (21)

I got the Tick kit which made it a breeze IMO battery relocation is one of the first mods you should do if you are going straight line. 1 mod with 2 benefits

Bitemark46

Moving weight off the nose is a plus, yes. But another key benefit that to me is better than removing off the nose is that you are putting 35lbs over the right rear (well supposed to go there) tire. Putting that weight on the tire that has the least amount of down force off the hit is a huge help.

-Mark

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I prefer to run a smaller battery upfront to keep things simple. I have been running with the jack and spare in for balast along with about 3/4 tank of gas.

dannyz

That, and though not listed in my sig, I already have relocation brackets/ comp. eng. 3 way shocks out back, with strange adjust. up front. I am running the stock tq. arm, but I don't see an aftermarket arm being the silver bullet either. Am going to try the battery thing AND if still lacking, ballast.

sillysspeed

iTrader: (21)

You might be surprised how much a short tq arm helps weight transfer. I know it made a big difference on mine. I was on the stock converter back then too

1BAD98LS1

iTrader: (33)

I did it to make room for a nice catch can and get rid of that ugly looking battery tray lol... creating room and putting weight on the rear tires were extra benefits

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

None of what you said justifies adding weight to get your car to work.

SwampWS6

iTrader: (7)

Thats exactly what Im doing. Lol!

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

3 things to make your car work:

1) Moving weight from front to rear: battery moved, lose weight from front with tube k-member and lowers, lightweight hood, bumper support, etc. All of this will lose weight and transfer the remainder to a higher rear percentage.

2) short torque arm will indeed help you transfer weight and increase rigidity of the arm to aid in power transfer.

3) better rear shocks at least. I know... "so and so has gone 1.x 60s on these shocks and so they have to work for me". Not so much... you will find a respectable gain with a set of double adjustable shocks from Afco, Strange, or Viking, and needed on all 4 corners for optimum performance. *Good* shocks are the biggest key to making a car work and controlling the suspension/chassis reaction, keeping the tires planted.


Give us a call and we will be glad to help you with the right info and the right parts to make your car perform. We have the right parts, best prices, and the tuning experience to back it all up!

sillysspeed

iTrader: (21)

this ^^^^^^