Please help me get more weight out of this car
11-29-2015, 11:05 AM
#23
From the convos I've had with the suspension sponsors, all of them advised against chromoly for a street driven car.
I like MWC's reguular K member as it's the lightest. If you're more of a street car the BMR or the Road Race UMI is probably the better bet. A lot of people like the PA Racing K-member as well.
I like MWC's reguular K member as it's the lightest. If you're more of a street car the BMR or the Road Race UMI is probably the better bet. A lot of people like the PA Racing K-member as well.
11-30-2015, 09:45 AM
#26
Be careful on what you purchase, there are a lot of k members out there, but only a few that are descent quality. MWC is a suspension component leader in the 4th Gen F-body market and rest assured you are getting the highest quality and a great value for your money spent.
The K-member is relatively easy to change, especially on the LS1 cars. Although the oem lower arms will work, we suggest to change them out. It is very typical for the bolts to be frozen in the control arm bushings which at that point it just makes more sense to replace them. The MWC K-member comes with all necessary hardware, steering mounts, and direct fit engine stands.
Give us a call, we will be glad to help you out. All MWC manufactured components are on sale promotion right now, get in on the savings while you can!
The K-member is relatively easy to change, especially on the LS1 cars. Although the oem lower arms will work, we suggest to change them out. It is very typical for the bolts to be frozen in the control arm bushings which at that point it just makes more sense to replace them. The MWC K-member comes with all necessary hardware, steering mounts, and direct fit engine stands.
Give us a call, we will be glad to help you out. All MWC manufactured components are on sale promotion right now, get in on the savings while you can!
11-30-2015, 03:42 PM
#30
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Is the car a t-top body? If so my carbon roof will drop a possible 80 pounds. The Optic Armor front and rear itself is a 50 pound drop.
Extreme weight reduction is possible, I can do 2300 pound rollers with the right combo. You get past a certain point(and you are very close) and the weight reduction becomes very costly.
Extreme weight reduction is possible, I can do 2300 pound rollers with the right combo. You get past a certain point(and you are very close) and the weight reduction becomes very costly.
12-01-2015, 09:29 AM
#33
Sorry for the highjack. Can you give a run down on the 2300lb roller? How much carbon to get there? Obviously that's a N/A combo, Aluminum block? I'd be happy at 2800 w/iron bbc and twins. Do you think it can get a lighter. 1997 hardtop camaro 25.3 chassis. She's all cut up, anything that doesn't need to be there will be gone. All inner structure, cowl, roof structure, new whell tubs, and replace floor.
12-06-2015, 05:34 PM
#35
Carbon roof panel what's involved in putting one on a t top car, do you have a sheet metal part to the I. The outer edges like the factory would be? What about the seals, just for the sake of keeping wind out of the car?
If the carbon roof is 80 lbs (already have the lexan wondows), and the 140
One I'm told the koz motor sports carbon doors and lexan side glass is that would be a huge assist in getting my car to 2900 with me in it ready to go
If the carbon roof is 80 lbs (already have the lexan wondows), and the 140
One I'm told the koz motor sports carbon doors and lexan side glass is that would be a huge assist in getting my car to 2900 with me in it ready to go
12-07-2015, 12:51 PM
#36
Jason the T-top to hardtop conversion requires adding a bit of sheet metal structure over the door glass, and then you would also need to source hardtop door weatherstrips and weatherstrip retainers.
You can fully remove the t-top center I, the full underside of the sail panel, the a-pillar main structure and the extra material across the front of the windshield area. I will usually only leave a 1.5-2" wide area around the perimeter to attach the carbon roof cap with the glue.
You can fully remove the t-top center I, the full underside of the sail panel, the a-pillar main structure and the extra material across the front of the windshield area. I will usually only leave a 1.5-2" wide area around the perimeter to attach the carbon roof cap with the glue.
12-07-2015, 12:56 PM
#37
Sounds like a whole bunch of cutting, makes sense why there's 80 lbs that can go.
It's something I will have to keep in mind. Carbon doors and the lexan Windows will be the next thing I do once it's finished up. After that I'll have to look at doing this, vs a 1 piece nose that Mike (Tuff) is making and see which one is gonna chop more off.
It's something I will have to keep in mind. Carbon doors and the lexan Windows will be the next thing I do once it's finished up. After that I'll have to look at doing this, vs a 1 piece nose that Mike (Tuff) is making and see which one is gonna chop more off.