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Have a 99 v6 hardtop roller for project, wanting to build a serious street car
What are the best cage setups? 8/10 pt
I looked at the MWC and Wolfe setups and like them, but it looks like Wolfe's has the bars that go in front through the dash, and MWC does not. I like the rear bars going to the tail like MWC has an option for, also the X.
What about some of the cheaper kits? Jegs?
Just looking for some people to reply that have experience with this stuff.
Depends how fast your goals are but sounds like you want to build a pretty bad car so you'll probably have to do an 8.50 certified cage. That's what I have in my strip car. It definitely has the bars that go through the dash but they do a really good job and it doesn't look bad. I had a guy from John Force Racing do mine but I've had MWC do everything else. I hadn't done any work with MWC when I did my cage. One thing that I would like to add to mine is behind the dash some shops put a horizontal bar between you and the firewall and I like the idea of that. Mine doesn't have that and it is NHRA certified so technically doesn't need it.
I have read a lot about the bolt in and weld in cages from Wolf and some guys say they fit perfect and some hate them lol. But a lot of guys I read, will do a 6 or 8 point themselves and then have a shop build onto it as they need it at the track.
One thing that I would like to add to mine is behind the dash some shops put a horizontal bar between you and the firewall and I like the idea of that. Mine doesn't have that and it is NHRA certified so technically doesn't need it.
You are required to have that bar when you start doing some transmission tunnel and/or firewall modifications. Like if you want a removable trans tunnel.
I have a friend with a midwest chassis cage and one with a Wolfe racecraft cage. I Like the Wolfe one better. the main hoop tucks in better. You cant even see the cage thru the side window. Both are reasonably priced and good quality.
You are required to have that bar when you start doing some transmission tunnel and/or firewall modifications. Like if you want a removable trans tunnel.
Oh ok. Makes sense. Just seems nice for safety either way and it's not hard to add since the dash is out.
I have a friend with a midwest chassis cage and one with a Wolfe racecraft cage. I Like the Wolfe one better. the main hoop tucks in better. You cant even see the cage thru the side window. Both are reasonably priced and good quality.
Was the Wolfe a prebuilt one that your buddy installed?
I'm sure if you told the fab shop where you wanted them to bend it they would accommodate as long as it's a good shop.
Have a 99 v6 hardtop roller for project, wanting to build a serious street car
What are the best cage setups? 8/10 pt
I looked at the MWC and Wolfe setups and like them, but it looks like Wolfe's has the bars that go in front through the dash, and MWC does not. I like the rear bars going to the tail like MWC has an option for, also the X.
What about some of the cheaper kits? Jegs?
Just looking for some people to reply that have experience with this stuff.
Thanks
Not sure where you get the info that the MWC cage kits do not go through the dash... All of our 8.50 cage kits do for sure go through the dash. We setup the a-pillar bar so it passes through at the intersection point of the dash and the extension panel for easy trimming and fitment of the dash.
We do not roll the bend in the main hoop at the window to "tuck" due to the fact it is not a strong design. A cage is installed for your safety and the MWC cage kits are designed for exactly this within the NHRA/IHRA rules. I will not compromise someone's safety just to follow a window line. The MWC cage kits are also built on a digital controlled bender to retain consistency and accuracy. We do not use a follower bar type bender either like the others do. These benders tend to egg shape the tube, again not as safe formed as possible. We use a pull-through type bender that forms a much nicer/safer bend.
We offer three different style roof/pillar bar setups. One is the traditional halo and single tube a-pillar bar. This is the easiest to install and our go-to normal setup. Next is the one piece pillar/roof bar, and a "eyebrow" bar that is at the top of the windshield. Last is the full size dash bar, short lower pillar bar, and pillar/roof bar with an eyebrow bar as well. This is most common on 25.5 and higher builds.
Any questions feel free to ask us. We build cage kits weekly for short delivery times. We have many options available and the best prices and quality you will find in a cage kit.
Not sure where you get the info that the MWC cage kits do not go through the dash... All of our 8.50 cage kits do for sure go through the dash. We setup the a-pillar bar so it passes through at the intersection point of the dash and the extension panel for easy trimming and fitment of the dash.
We do not roll the bend in the main hoop at the window to "tuck" due to the fact it is not a strong design. A cage is installed for your safety and the MWC cage kits are designed for exactly this within the NHRA/IHRA rules. I will not compromise someone's safety just to follow a window line. The MWC cage kits are also built on a digital controlled bender to retain consistency and accuracy. We do not use a follower bar type bender either like the others do. These benders tend to egg shape the tube, again not as safe formed as possible. We use a pull-through type bender that forms a much nicer/safer bend.
We offer three different style roof/pillar bar setups. One is the traditional halo and single tube a-pillar bar. This is the easiest to install and our go-to normal setup. Next is the one piece pillar/roof bar, and a "eyebrow" bar that is at the top of the windshield. Last is the full size dash bar, short lower pillar bar, and pillar/roof bar with an eyebrow bar as well. This is most common on 25.5 and higher builds.
Any questions feel free to ask us. We build cage kits weekly for short delivery times. We have many options available and the best prices and quality you will find in a cage kit.
I'd like to see more pictures of your kit if that's possible. I guess the pictures on the website were misleading and that's why I didn't know where the bars were.
My cage is done already to 8.50 NHRA certification. No need for any faster for me yet. I was just commenting on the info ssvert gave. I didn't even think of them placing the bars a few inches higher or lower for safety. Makes sense. I would have had them do my cage but I didn't know about them yet. My cage is done really well though. MWC has done my entire front and rear end for my car now so I definitely won't go anywhere else. Great customer service and awesome quality work.
I just completed my MWC 8pt install with swingouts. certifies to 8.50 and gives the ability to remove the side bars still. Fit is amazing the clearences are super tight but still allow you to remove t tops and I had to modify my mirror a tad but I can still use it. If I had any complaints it would be that I wish I had gotten the rear bars to go all the way to the back of the car instead of overseat style since I dont even have rear seats. Also the type of aftermarket seats I have put my head close to the t top bar so I need to modify my brackets to drop the seats back down a inch and a half in a stock position. Remember a Cage is not ment to be for comfort it is for safetly. you can go with a 6 pt and meet most requirments unless you are going super fast. Mine was overbuilt for my current needs but atleast its something I probably wont have to worry about for quit some time and I wont get kicked out of drag week or some other event for safety reasons. Painting it is a pain in the but so make sure you try to paint all the parts that you wont be welding around before they go into the car.
04-18-2016, 11:13 PM
Roll Cage Setups 
