Scott

I want to put the car in the 9s this Spring and figure I can do it, but need suggestions, recommendations on what needs to be changed, modified or deleted from the car. I'm not going to totally gut the car for weight loss, but I'm going to do some. Here's what the car currently has in it.

Motor and Exhaust Mods:
MMS Stage IIx Heads
MMS 229v2 Cam
LS6 Intake
ASP Crank and alt. pullies
Dynatech Racing Headers
Mufflex Off-Road Y-Pipe
MTI Induction Lid
K&N Filter

Drivetrain Mods:
Custom Steel Driveshaft
Strange 12 Bolt Rearend
33 Spline Axles
Heavy Duty Spool
3.73 gears
T/A Performance Cover
Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm with Chromoly Ends
Spohn Driveshaft Loop
27x11.5x15 Hoosier QTP
15x10 Weld Pro Stars
M165 Euro Tires up front
15x3.5 Weld Pro Stars

Transmission Mods:
TH400 transmission
ATI Reverse manual valve body and Transbrake
B&M Rachet shifter
4200 Stall Torque Converter (Yank)

Safety Mods
6-Point Chromoly Roll Bar

Fuel and Nitrous Mods:
Walbro 255lb in tank fuel pump
TNT F2 Wet Nitrous System
Bottle Heater
TNT dual Pro Purge

Suspension Mods:
BMR Extreme Duty Rear Drag Bar
BMR Extreme Duty Chromoly Adjustable Lower Control Arms
QA1 12-way Adjustable Shocks and Springs
KBDD Subframe Connectors

Computer Mods:
MMS Computer Tuning w/max 26 degrees at WOT

When the car ran 10.49 it was open headers w/just the Y-Pipe installed. Catback was removed... This was the only weight reduction other than the carpet being out of the car.

Also, I recently purchased 28" Hoosier Slicks and Hoosier Front Runners to replace the QTPs and Euro Tires. The catback system that was previously on the car was replaced w/a Mufflex 4" system.

Any suggestions would be great!!!

jleews6

iTrader: (2)

You have enough mph to go 9.9.I think if you take out a 100 pounds and work on the 60ft you will be in the 9s.My buddys mustang runs 9.6 to 9.7 with only a 136 to a 137 mph but his 60 is in the high 1.3s.How much are you spraying now?Your car runs good now.
Good luck.

Scott

I'm just spraying a 150 shot right now. One of the issues I had was with the suspension. Turned out that I had +3 degrees on the pinion angle and I didn't understand why the car was bunny hopping off the line. This was most likely the cause of the poor 60' times. Now I have the pinion angle adjusted correctly and BMR lower control arm relocation brackets in place. Hopefully this will help along with the new slicks on the 60' times.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

200 shot!, no make it a 250 shot <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

badass 2002 z28

iTrader: (5)

You just really need to work on those 60ft times

EVIL

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by smokinHawk:
<strong> 200 shot!, no make it a 250 shot <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">stock bottom end still....very bad for stock pistons...

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

yea fine tune suspension, that should get you closer to low 10's. other than that. maybe go up in cam or get deeper gears like 4.10's. good luck. got pics of your ride? you could put that k member in the front too.

fastlif

iTrader: (1)

I hope to beat you there...I'm running 10.4's and still have 4l60e. Trying a Yank convertor this weekend and hope to get .1-.15 out of it...if I do I will try a 200hp shot...I hope it will take at least once or twice. All I want is a 9.999999time slip.

Good luck!

Shawn

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Scott go with 3.90 gears even if you arent redlining thru the traps the nitrous will pull you thru. Your car isnt goign to die goign thru the traps at 6400 rpm instead of 6800, your Hp peaks wellbefore 6800 and with the nitrous it makes alot of torque down low( as in 4500 rpm) anyway. Email scott if your serious about going to a spool, Chuck is too I beleive. It only makes sense plus you save a good bit of weight too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Fastlif... If you arent scared of your bottom end goign (like its not gonna be a big deal if she goes, dont mess around with the 150. Go right to the 200s (or bigger <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ) and run your nine secodn pass.

Thats the mistake we made with Chucks car, he knew the motor was coming out anyway... if he left spraying, and shifted at 6500 with the nitrous on (instead of shutting it down at 5800)it woulda went 9s easy, and thast on a 150. On a 200 it would have been a 9.70 something.

CHRISPY

4.10s with 28 inch slicks
3800 PYE converter
straight 104 unleaded
Drop timing a bit and run rich on the dynojet AF wise for safety
200-250 shot
launch off the T-brake on spray <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

There is your nine second pass <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

The 28s will hook like crazy and grow about 3/4's of an inch at the big end, with 4.10s you will have TONS of room...

Good luck! I am interested to hear how everything works for you!
Cheers,
Chris

Scott

Yep, still have a stock bottom end... I've sprayed up to a 200 shot on the street before just to see how it hits (hits pretty damn hard too), but I don't plan on doing that until I get the bottom end beefed up. I'm going to try a few other things, like a tighter converter, full spool w/3.73s to start with, see what 4.11 or 3.90 will do for me w/the 28" slicks. I don't want to make a lot of changes right off, this way I can judge what's working and what isn't.

Pics of the car can be seen at geocities.com/scott_jennie

badass 2002 z28

iTrader: (5)

u spraying right outta the hole? Also what's your raceweight?

2000 Camaro SS

I'm thinking 4:10's also. Why have you not tried that? just wondering.

Scott

Race weight is around 3600 pounds and I usually spray right out of the hole off the transbrake. I haven't been back to the track since I had my suspension fixed, so that may help out dramatically. I haven't tried the 4.10s yet because I was concerned abour running out at the top end w/the 27" tall tires. Now that I have 28" slicks, I may try the 4.10s w/the spray and maybe have the converter tightened up to say 3600 stall from the 4200 stall it currently is at.

Scott

Thanks everyone for commenting... I really appreciate the advise. I'm definatley going to a spool and either 3.90 or 4.10 gears w/the 28" slicks. With the nitrous, 3.73s and 27" that I had, there was lots of room at the top end going through the traps...wasn't anywhere near my rev limiter. I do know that weight is an issue with my car, but I'd like to see it run the 9s w/a little bit of weight reduction, but I do want to keep the car fairly stock in appearance (keep the heater, radio, speakers, carpet, etc...). I hear that taking the heater core and duct work isn't that bad, but putting it back in is a bear and then some. So as for removing the heater, I'm not sure if I'm going to do it. Still up in the air, since I need to go through that area for the roll cage (10 point/12 point). I won't need the dash bars or the rocker panel bars since neighter are going to be modified, so that will help with not worrying about room under the dash.

I do like the idea of 4.10s, with the spool, 3800 or 3600 stall (much tighter then what I have currently), timing is at 26 degrees at WOT, so drop that some, richen it up a tad, and hit it with a 200 shot out the hole on the transbrake. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> The car definately has 9s in it, just a matter of the right combo to get it there. I'll email ya later on the spool and gears Jason... thanks!!!

fastlif

iTrader: (1)

an update on my quest for 9's...

I tried a Yank pt4200ex convertor instead of my vig #7. Ran a little better on motor 11.3's even with worse DA. BUT on n2o it is WAY too loose, ran 10.6's@125....I will go back to Vig for a while and let Yank restall mine or something.