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28x10.5W peepz got a q

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Old 12-01-2004, 02:24 PM   #1
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Default 28x10.5W peepz got a q

Who's run 28x10.5W's with stock LCA mounting points. Tell me what you did to make them fit.
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Old 12-01-2004, 02:55 PM   #2
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Sledgehammer.
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Old 12-01-2004, 05:18 PM   #3
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'kay.

No cutting inside?
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Old 12-01-2004, 05:27 PM   #4
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ouch, how bad?
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Old 12-01-2004, 06:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAN
Sledgehammer.
The Big ******* Hammer Method Works well.
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Old 12-01-2004, 08:15 PM   #6
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Needed to rid myself of the bumpstops as well, but everyone's car seems to be different. Mine's LT1 as well, could make a difference. I tried to get away with a little 5lb handheld sledge, but I think I need to have at it with a full-sized. My car just isn't crazy about accommodating these tires.
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Old 12-01-2004, 08:25 PM   #7
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John, put them on for the last time out this year a few weeks ago. The fascia was already trimmed for 28x10.5's and the bump stops had also already been removed. The LCA's are tubular (stock mount points) with the rear centered with an adjustable panhard. The front inboard of the wheel well near the LCA's was hammered inward a bit long ago. Fenders have not been rolled, but rear shocks run fairly stiff with stock springs and have not ventured into the tires, either these or the "plain" 10.5's.

That said, for the W's, surprisingly, they fit on the 10" rims (6.9" bs) with out issue, but it is REAL tight everywhere...I would not go around the turn off at the track too darn quick. Take care. Dave

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Old 12-01-2004, 08:33 PM   #8
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For a 28x10.5W on a 9.75" 'gart...
-say goodbye to the bump stops
-trim off the leading edge of the rear bumper
-beat the hell out of the front corner of the inner wheel well
-roll the fender lips
-beat the metal around the spring pocket like it just stole your lunchmoney

I also got some tubular LCAs and offset them as far in as I could (1-1/2" or 1-3/4" I think). This made a lot of room.

http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/TAback.gif
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/misc/rear01.gif
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/misc/rear02.gif

This post is helpful too..
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237539

In hindsight, I should've just got the torch out and mini tubbed the sumbitch. When you try to beat down several layers of metal, you either need to heat it up and work it that way, or get REALLY angry. I did both.
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Old 12-02-2004, 04:26 AM   #9
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plasma cutter

15x10 5in BS Alumastar, 12" spring, non rolled fender. They tuck
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Old 12-02-2004, 05:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2khawk
plasma cutter

15x10 5in BS Alumastar, 12" spring, non rolled fender. They tuck
How much did you narrow your rearend? I'm thinking about narrowing 5" and running 6" backspace alumastars (tucking an inch per side)
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Old 12-02-2004, 07:45 AM   #11
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Mine is Narrowed 3" Per side, so 6" Total, I will run a 15x10 w/ 5 BS, from my measurments it will tuck the wheel in .5" more than stock
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Old 12-02-2004, 08:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brady
How much did you narrow your rearend? I'm thinking about narrowing 5" and running 6" backspace alumastars (tucking an inch per side)
3" per side.

I can run w/o a spacer and move the LCA's over in the stock loactions, or run a 5/16" spacer and run the LCA's centered.

I've got an extra set of Alumastars (non-beadloc) that have never been run if you're gonna narrow the rear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSTR-THANU
Basically you need to know the way of the Gizmatchi before you are qualified to use the Hot Mop.
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Old 12-02-2004, 08:38 AM
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