Line lock...
05-29-2005, 07:45 PM
#1
Line lock... SLP or Thunder Racing's kit?
I'm torn between the two. The Thunder kit looks more complete, but the SLP kit is almost $100 cheaper and boasts being a "customed fitted kit for 98' - 02' F-body cars."
I want to order one in the next day or so and get it on my car this comming Saturday to be ready to race on Sunday.
Any input/advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'm torn between the two. The Thunder kit looks more complete, but the SLP kit is almost $100 cheaper and boasts being a "customed fitted kit for 98' - 02' F-body cars."
I want to order one in the next day or so and get it on my car this comming Saturday to be ready to race on Sunday.
Any input/advice would be greatly appreciated.
05-30-2005, 03:56 PM
#6
SJM Mfg kit over an SLP barebones kit...a breakdown of a comparison chart www.sjmmanufacturinginc.homestead.com
If you have an SLP kit, you should add a master control circuit so that you don't accidentially turn on your solenoid while driving or cleaning the car. An LED indicator is also a very good idea.
The thunder is also nicer then the SLP barebones kit.
No matter which kit you choose, the lines should be made correct, this should be of no concern.
SLP's "exclusive" kit was brought out later then our kits as well as thunder racing kits. SLP reps used to work with sales of our products through old vendors of ours until it seems SLP decided to mimic our kits but making them more of a barebones setup. Their circuitry in my opinion is far from desirable, actually hazardous in my opinion.
For LS1 cars, we used to locate the solenoid up front, now they are located on top due to the physical location and difficulty of install due the power block location on an LS1. We do offer it in the original front mount location upon request, though we don't advertise it due to it being a more difficult install. The LS1 power block makes it difficult to get a drill hole located...an angle drill works much easier (which most folks don't have).
Our B-001 kits are 125.99 right now. They are always in stock and ready to ship within 24 business hours. The difference between our higher priced Hurst style LL is the solenoid itself. We offer it in three configurations using a variety of line locks for the guys whom "have to have" one style solenoid over another. They all function equally well and retain the same beneficial components and circuitry. You can't feel one bit of a difference between one solenoid to the next (at least I have not been able to decipher one from another)
Personally, I highly suggest the b-001 kits as you can't beat the price for what is included in the kit.
If you have an SLP kit, you should add a master control circuit so that you don't accidentially turn on your solenoid while driving or cleaning the car. An LED indicator is also a very good idea.
The thunder is also nicer then the SLP barebones kit.
No matter which kit you choose, the lines should be made correct, this should be of no concern.
SLP's "exclusive" kit was brought out later then our kits as well as thunder racing kits. SLP reps used to work with sales of our products through old vendors of ours until it seems SLP decided to mimic our kits but making them more of a barebones setup. Their circuitry in my opinion is far from desirable, actually hazardous in my opinion.
For LS1 cars, we used to locate the solenoid up front, now they are located on top due to the physical location and difficulty of install due the power block location on an LS1. We do offer it in the original front mount location upon request, though we don't advertise it due to it being a more difficult install. The LS1 power block makes it difficult to get a drill hole located...an angle drill works much easier (which most folks don't have).
Our B-001 kits are 125.99 right now. They are always in stock and ready to ship within 24 business hours. The difference between our higher priced Hurst style LL is the solenoid itself. We offer it in three configurations using a variety of line locks for the guys whom "have to have" one style solenoid over another. They all function equally well and retain the same beneficial components and circuitry. You can't feel one bit of a difference between one solenoid to the next (at least I have not been able to decipher one from another)
Personally, I highly suggest the b-001 kits as you can't beat the price for what is included in the kit.
Trending Topics
05-31-2005, 02:42 PM
#10
Originally Posted by onyx_rock
Steve,
Do you do installs at your location? If so I would like to purchase a kit and have it installed.
Do you do installs at your location? If so I would like to purchase a kit and have it installed.
If you need assistance. I would be more then happy to accomidate you. I can walk you through the install either before or during it per phone if it helps.
Hope this helps,
Steve
05-31-2005, 03:46 PM
#11
I have one of Steve's line lock/ABS delete kits on my car and the solenoid appears to be the same as the SLP and everything fit just fine. Cant beat Steve's customer service thats for sure.
I had an SLP on my my last car and it worked fine but why on earth they have you wire one side of the solenoid right to the battery and activate it by grounding the wire I have no idea, its just plain unsafe. If the wire shorts out somewhere while driving the soleniod will energize and of you will lose your front brakes (or they will hang when you push them depending on the solenoid).
Everyone else does it the normal way, grounds one side of the solenoid and run a fused swtich inside the car. If the wire shorts you pop a fuse and the line lock doesnt work - not a big deal.
I had an SLP on my my last car and it worked fine but why on earth they have you wire one side of the solenoid right to the battery and activate it by grounding the wire I have no idea, its just plain unsafe. If the wire shorts out somewhere while driving the soleniod will energize and of you will lose your front brakes (or they will hang when you push them depending on the solenoid).
Everyone else does it the normal way, grounds one side of the solenoid and run a fused swtich inside the car. If the wire shorts you pop a fuse and the line lock doesnt work - not a big deal.
05-31-2005, 07:46 PM
#13
Kp,
Thanks for your vote of confidence. I'm happy to hear our customers are leaving satisfied. The SLP solenoid appear very similar to our B-001 solenoid. Ours is rebuildable...i'm uncertain if theirs is since they do not advertise it as rebuildable. I'm assuming they are not as one would think they would mention since it is a selling benifit. Remember guys, solenoids should never be switched on >60 seconds as you can burn them out rather easily.
To the masses: I feel that most LL kits you'll find out there will function as intended and fit well. I feel comparisons should be made regarding features and benifits of the particular kit. Price is important...customer service should be considered as well. I feel we have an edge on all points.
Thanks for your vote of confidence. I'm happy to hear our customers are leaving satisfied. The SLP solenoid appear very similar to our B-001 solenoid. Ours is rebuildable...i'm uncertain if theirs is since they do not advertise it as rebuildable. I'm assuming they are not as one would think they would mention since it is a selling benifit. Remember guys, solenoids should never be switched on >60 seconds as you can burn them out rather easily.
To the masses: I feel that most LL kits you'll find out there will function as intended and fit well. I feel comparisons should be made regarding features and benifits of the particular kit. Price is important...customer service should be considered as well. I feel we have an edge on all points.
06-01-2005, 01:55 PM
#14
12 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fawn Twp, PA
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks. Are there detailed instructions included. I have a friend who is a GM mechanic so he should be able to do this, correct?
Originally Posted by steve10
We are not setup for installs. It is a rather easy install to be honest. The most difficult portion I'd say would be bleeding your brakes if your unsure. The rest is plug and play.
If you need assistance. I would be more then happy to accomidate you. I can walk you through the install either before or during it per phone if it helps.
Hope this helps,
Steve
If you need assistance. I would be more then happy to accomidate you. I can walk you through the install either before or during it per phone if it helps.
Hope this helps,
Steve
06-01-2005, 02:25 PM
#15
Detailed instructions are included. There is no need to even purchase teflon tape, we pre-assemble the brake NPT fittings w/sealant for you. It even comes with a rubber grommet for the firewall. Any other connections that need to be connected do NOT use any type of sealant. The two switches are pre-assembled w/leads as well as the LED indicator.
In a nutshell, after removing the fluid from the mstr. cyl....disconnect the stock line and replace it with the new lines w/solenoid which locates the mounting point for the solenoid. All that is necessary at that point is to mark where the solenoid sits, remove it and drill two small holes where you marked for the mounting screws...mount the solenoid with the lines and run the wires to where you install the switches. The connections are crimp connections, no soldering is necessary. If you prefer to solder them you can do so if desired.
Directions w/pictures (for the folks whom don't want to read :-)) are included. Also included is a detailed wiring schematic.
In a nutshell, after removing the fluid from the mstr. cyl....disconnect the stock line and replace it with the new lines w/solenoid which locates the mounting point for the solenoid. All that is necessary at that point is to mark where the solenoid sits, remove it and drill two small holes where you marked for the mounting screws...mount the solenoid with the lines and run the wires to where you install the switches. The connections are crimp connections, no soldering is necessary. If you prefer to solder them you can do so if desired.
Directions w/pictures (for the folks whom don't want to read :-)) are included. Also included is a detailed wiring schematic.
06-01-2005, 03:03 PM
#17
Tony,
You know, we have planned to make one for you guys. We have all the materials necessary. We had a guy that we were going to use as the prototype....he backed out and changed his mind stating he didn't want to alter the car afterall. If we had a donor car to fit it up to, then we'd be more then happy to create one for you. I'd even be willing to personally go to their location and install it for them free of charge.
Steve
You know, we have planned to make one for you guys. We have all the materials necessary. We had a guy that we were going to use as the prototype....he backed out and changed his mind stating he didn't want to alter the car afterall. If we had a donor car to fit it up to, then we'd be more then happy to create one for you. I'd even be willing to personally go to their location and install it for them free of charge.
Steve
06-01-2005, 03:18 PM
#18
Originally Posted by steve10
Remember guys, solenoids should never be switched on >60 seconds as you can burn them out rather easily.
