Removed rear spring isolators and lowered front end, have some questions.
06-15-2005, 03:24 PM
#1
Removed rear spring isolators and lowered front end, have some questions. Well after much weight removal over time, my car starting sitting higher and higher. So I removed the isolators for the rear springs and slipped over a 1/2" rubber hose on the top coil. I also adjusted my front Hals and lowered the front end as well. There is now 3 inches of clearance between the fender and top of the rear tire (26x10x15 ET Drag-80% worn) and 2 1/2 inches of clearance in the front (165R radials). I was just wondering if this is going to hurt me or help me? I never measured the clearance when it was bone stock, but it looks pretty close. Should I undo what I did or will I be fine? Also, would it have any affect on pinion angle? I ask because I did take it out a couple of weeks ago and made a couple of passes and couldnt hook for crap, but then again, no one could because track prep sucked. Lastly, do ya'll go by pinion angle, measuring the pinion alone, or do you go by driveline angle, measuring the pinion, driveshaft, and motor/tranny? Any help is greatly appreciated.
06-16-2005, 01:01 AM
#2
Managed a 10.79@124.24 tonight 1.51 60 ft. Best 60 ft. was a 1.50. DA was almost 1900+. Track prep was decent, but each run became worse as the track went away. What was weird to me was when the track was going away, off the launch, it would hook and then immediately spin. It wasnt spin then hook. Why is that? It spun bad enough to make me 60 ft. in the high 1.5s.
06-16-2005, 06:20 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Lastly, do ya'll go by pinion angle, measuring the pinion alone, or do you go by driveline angle, measuring the pinion, driveshaft, and motor/tranny? Any help is greatly appreciated.
06-17-2005, 12:14 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Managed a 10.79@124.24 tonight 1.51 60 ft. Best 60 ft. was a 1.50. DA was almost 1900+. Track prep was decent, but each run became worse as the track went away. What was weird to me was when the track was going away, off the launch, it would hook and then immediately spin. It wasnt spin then hook. Why is that? It spun bad enough to make me 60 ft. in the high 1.5s.
might be hitting the tires to hard. do you have relocation brackets? if so, try putting em back up to the stock location and run it again
06-17-2005, 01:20 PM
#5
BMR bolt-in relocation brackets in lowest hole. I didnt know you could hit the tires too hard. I'm sure its going to be even harder when I convert over to a TH350 with trans brake. If it was hitting too hard, I would think that it would spin first then hook, not the other way around.
06-17-2005, 06:20 PM
#6
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Get your car over to Stevens Race Cars and he'll get you setup. You'll see at least a .1 improvement in 60' times. Even more once you get a TH-350 w/ a brake.
06-17-2005, 10:11 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
BMR bolt-in relocation brackets in lowest hole. I didnt know you could hit the tires too hard. I'm sure its going to be even harder when I convert over to a TH350 with trans brake. If it was hitting too hard, I would think that it would spin first then hook, not the other way around.
nope. it will dig and smash the tires, and when they come back up is when you start spinning because all a tire is is an oversized ball. they are perfect for a way lowered mid 12's car but hell on a mid 10's car. i wouldn't believe a budy of mine that kept saying this till i noticed it first hand
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06-19-2005, 02:34 PM
#8
KingCrapBox, where about is this guy located? Also, is this the only guy you know of who sets up suspension or the one you most recommend?
ramairstyle00, wow, I didnt realize that it could be hurting me. I have removed the rear isolators in installed a 1/2" piece of rubber hose on the top coil and lowered the front end with my adjustable Hals because my stance was getting high with all the weight reduction. There's 3" of gap in the rear and 2 1/2" in the front. I've always read that the lowest hole nets you the best traction/60 ft. times. Will it really matter if its a 12 sec. car or a 10 sec. car?
ramairstyle00, wow, I didnt realize that it could be hurting me. I have removed the rear isolators in installed a 1/2" piece of rubber hose on the top coil and lowered the front end with my adjustable Hals because my stance was getting high with all the weight reduction. There's 3" of gap in the rear and 2 1/2" in the front. I've always read that the lowest hole nets you the best traction/60 ft. times. Will it really matter if its a 12 sec. car or a 10 sec. car?
06-19-2005, 02:44 PM
#9
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He's in Santa Fe right off of 646 and I-45. Out Outlaw 10.5 car is there right now having the tin work done.
Rick is probably the closest guy to us. He's also one of the best. There are a few other very talented people in town but I've had nothing but great luck with Rick. If you want I'll give him a call for you and we can schedule something.
Rick is probably the closest guy to us. He's also one of the best. There are a few other very talented people in town but I've had nothing but great luck with Rick. If you want I'll give him a call for you and we can schedule something.
06-19-2005, 03:24 PM
#10
What all does he do with the suspension? Just curious as I didnt really know there was much adjustment. The adjustment on the lower control arms moves the rear end forward or backward, but dont see why that would be changed and the panhard bar moves the rear side to side, but I would think that needed to be in the middle. Then there's no adjustment on the rear springs that I know of. Then on the shock settings, I know every car is different, but I've seen most people run 3 in the front and 5 or 6 in the rear with best results. I have 2º of pinion angle on the rear end. So what else would he adjust? Ride height cant be altered in the rear unless the spring was modified or different springs were installed, but the front can. I dont have the Wolfe anti-roll bar yet and thats the only thing that I could think of that needed to be adjusted. The reason I asked about this particular guy was I didnt know if he's just someone you recommended because you've had great luck with him, or lots of people go to him because he's really reputable for his work. I dont mind driving a little ways if I'm going to get my suspension setup by someone really good because I certainly dont want to throw any money away or have to go redo it somewhere else.
06-19-2005, 03:36 PM
#11
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Rick builds some of the baddest Outlaw 10.5 cars. If you call Jerry Bickel Race Cars and tell them you'll spend any amount of money to have them build you a back-half car, they'll turn you down and send you to Rick. He's a bad dude.
Basically what he'll do is put your car on the scales and get the weight bias. Then he'll adjust your Instant Center from wherever it might be to where it needs to be. He'll do that be adjusting your Control Arms and Torque Arm. Then he'll tell you where your shocks should be set, and give you some advice on which direction to go with them based on how the car reacts, track conditions, etc. If you had an adjustable sway bar he would add the necessary amount of pre-load to make your car leave straighter than an arrow.
Once you have him set the car up once, if you decide to make changes (Wolfe Sway-Bar, Less Weight, More Power, Bigger Tire, Whatever) he'll make all the necessary changes to get your car setup again.
A good chassis setup is invaluable. There are a few tenths to be gained from a properly setup car.
Here is one of the many Outlaw 10.5 cars that Rick has done. This car belongs to Greg Pizzano. He runs KOTH, TORA, and some COTT races. It's a consistant 4.60/7.30 car.
Basically what he'll do is put your car on the scales and get the weight bias. Then he'll adjust your Instant Center from wherever it might be to where it needs to be. He'll do that be adjusting your Control Arms and Torque Arm. Then he'll tell you where your shocks should be set, and give you some advice on which direction to go with them based on how the car reacts, track conditions, etc. If you had an adjustable sway bar he would add the necessary amount of pre-load to make your car leave straighter than an arrow.
Once you have him set the car up once, if you decide to make changes (Wolfe Sway-Bar, Less Weight, More Power, Bigger Tire, Whatever) he'll make all the necessary changes to get your car setup again.
A good chassis setup is invaluable. There are a few tenths to be gained from a properly setup car.
Here is one of the many Outlaw 10.5 cars that Rick has done. This car belongs to Greg Pizzano. He runs KOTH, TORA, and some COTT races. It's a consistant 4.60/7.30 car.
06-19-2005, 10:28 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Will it really matter if its a 12 sec. car or a 10 sec. car?
BIG TIME!!!!!!!!! a 12 second bar will be better off with a short torque arm/ relocation brackets at the bottom setup where as a 9-10 second car would be better off with a longest torque arm and the LCA's moved up some.
the longer t/a will make the nose come up slower and the lca's brought up will ease the shock on the tires when you have to much.
