sbr523

well I just put a 3000 stall converter in my Z28, it now has an air lid, stall and eagle f1 gs-d3 tires.

I took 100lbs of weight with me to the 1/8 mile track tonight to see how it would help my runs. without the weight i wasn't able to get better than a 2.2 60ft for a best et of 9.1 with all 100lbs in the trunk I managed a 2.08 60ft with a 8.77 et. has anyone else tried adding weight to the back of their cars to help it hook better? I know it is probably killing some of my top end having to drag around extra weight but it is more than making up for it on the launch. I am thinking next time I will take 200lbs with me and try it from 0-200lbs in 50lb increments to see how the car reacts with different weight. has anyone ever tried this and what was your results?

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

i am not a believer of adding weight in the rear. in fact to me it just slows you do and doesnt promote weight distribution very well. tires and suspension is what you ned.

BubaGumpShrimp

iTrader: (1)

well i know what your talking about. Adding weight to the back will only help if you cant hook up. Of course the best method is to get proper suspension components and tires to fix your problem. I too have the same problem with hooking up. In both our cases it would be best to move weight in the car that you still need like moving the 60+lb battery to the back. You will help yourslef both ways by moving the battery by taking weight off the front end allowing it to rise higher and help plant the rear tires harder and by adding the extra weight in the back puts more pressure on the back tires. you can also do this with the winshield washer tank. Find a smaller tank and mount it in the back of the car.

sbr523

I am probably going to move the battery to the trunk since I can fit it in that hole on the drivers side and still be able to use the t top holders. I take the car to the track maybe 2-3 times a year so I really don't plan on going all out with the suspension. I am mainly trying to figure out a good balance of getting a launch without killing the car's top end.

I figure for a 1/4 mile run then the weight would really kill the cars time but for 1/8 mile runs it seems like the 60ft pretty much determines what the run is going to be like. I know what you guys are saying about adding weight isn't the proper way to do it but sometimes you have to do what you can to help the car down the track. This car is my daily driver so I really don't want to do a lot to it and save most of the insane stuff for that kit car I am building, but while that car isn't finished I can play with my Camaro and at least have some fun in it.

also would lowering the car about 1.5 inches kill it's launch or not really affect it? I am probably going to lower it either way but I was just curious what it would do to the 60ft.

blkZ28spt

60 pounds? I don't think your battery weighs that much.

I wouldn't add weight. Concentrate on removing weight, esp from the front. Have you removed the front sway bar? Play with different launch rpm and tire pressures first.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

After the ASSLOAD of $$$ i have and will spend on lightweight parts (not to mention all the work of installing them and cutting up my car) you couldn't pay me to add weight to my car.
There is ways to make heavy cars hook. Big stall, big gears, more power but i would definatly add weight.

blkZ28spt

Wait, did I read this right, you said you would add weight?

I just went out and removed the heat shield and exhaust hangers from the stock muffler location. What do you think....5 lbs maybe?

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

oops. fixed it.
hey ounces add up to lbs and lbs add up to tenths and tenths add up to whoop ***.

sbr523

well if I was planning on running this car at the track all the time I would definately remove everything that wasn't required to make it go fast. but seeing as how I am just messing around at the track until my kit car is done I really can't see putting a lot of work and money into this Camaro. I was getting consistently .2-.3 faster times with 100lbs in the back ~22lbs air pressure in the tires. I was able to launch at maybe 1200rpms and take about 1 second to get to the floor with the gas pedal with the extra weight. without it I was having a hard time with it spinning sometimes even up to the 330ft mark. I guess a stall converter is a lot of fun after all

adding weight is a bad way to get it to hook but sometimes it really isn't worth doing it the proper way because of the limited use this car is going to see at a track. I will prob go back in a few weeks after I get all 8 spark plugs changed and put a crankcase evac kit on it to get rid of the oil being sucked up the pcv valve. but I really probably am about done with the mods to the car in the near future anyway except possibly lowering springs.

the kit car on the other hand I will probably run the largest wrinkle wall tires I can fit on it and it doesn't have a problem with the weight balance so I bet it should 60ft really well. It has nothing to do with a ls1 though so I won't bore you all with the details of what I have planned for it.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

i did for my cam only car untuned with stock gears on street tires with only a 3k converter..... i was still at pretty much stock weight, but added 125lbs to the rear and went from two 8.70 passes to a 8.10... tho ive since pulled that out, got some tires gears ect, and dropped 300lbs hehe.. i would say adding the tires and dropping weight would be best ofcourse, but hell i wanted to run it "BAD" lol