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? on stance of vehicle in relation to traction....

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Old 08-16-2005, 09:55 PM
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Default ? on stance of vehicle in relation to traction....

A couple of buddies told me that I might be able to hook better if I lower the rear of the car and raise the front, that b/c it's sittin high in the rear and low in the front it's having a harder time yankin the front up and puttin the weight on the rear. What's everyone think about that? I mean, I could raise the front, but I can't really drop the rear, got the stock springs back there and I don't want to put lowering springs, I really thought that would hurt performance (I could be wrong though). So how should the car sit, should I raise the front to be close to even with the rear, cuz right now she looks badass sittin with the front low and rear high, but if it'll help, i'll raise the front up. Let me know what you guys think, and thanks for any help, I appreciate it!
Old 08-17-2005, 07:37 AM
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TTT!

All opinions welcome, cuz if it'll help, i'll raise the front up before I go racing again Friday, I don't want anymore !!!
Old 08-17-2005, 08:02 AM
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I'll pass on what a Super Stock racer that works for QA1 told me about the Hal shocks. He said he tries to level the car frame front to back so that it looks level on the ground. His theory is that it takes energy to lift a nose down car to get back to level before it lifts beyond level to get weight transfer to the rear tires. He didn't want to waste that energy so he levels the car for quicker weight transfer to the rear tires.
Old 08-17-2005, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by onfire
I'll pass on what a Super Stock racer that works for QA1 told me about the Hal shocks. He said he tries to level the car frame front to back so that it looks level on the ground. His theory is that it takes energy to lift a nose down car to get back to level before it lifts beyond level to get weight transfer to the rear tires. He didn't want to waste that energy so he levels the car for quicker weight transfer to the rear tires.
Cool, thanks for the info man, i'll try leveling it out before friday and see if it helps me hook a little!
Old 08-17-2005, 10:11 PM
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Anytime you raise the car or the cars center of gravity, it should be easier for the car to transfer weight to the rear tires for more traction, if needed. So simply raising the front or rear of the car should make it transfer more weight. A taller block is easier to tip over than a shorter block. I'm not sure how you plan to raise the front but if you're gonna give up travel in the front suspension, it could hurt you. Taller front runners is probably the best way to raise the front. The faster the car, the less weight transfer you need. Look at Prostocks, for instance. Very low to the ground. They rely on hit of the tires to transfer weight. Slower cars like stockers are much taller cause they need the transfer. A lower car is usually easier to drive and is a tad more aerodynamic though. If you're hooking solid now, all the more weight transfer won't help.
Old 08-17-2005, 10:13 PM
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pro stock keeps the cars as low as possible for aerodynamic properties. That way they really only need to counteract the front end pushing through the air and not the front end and the tires too.

Every little bit helps.

Nate
Old 08-17-2005, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by krexken
Anytime you raise the car or the cars center of gravity, it should be easier for the car to transfer weight to the rear tires for more traction, if needed. So simply raising the front or rear of the car should make it transfer more weight. A taller block is easier to tip over than a shorter block. I'm not sure how you plan to raise the front but if you're gonna give up travel in the front suspension, it could hurt you. Taller front runners is probably the best way to raise the front. The faster the car, the less weight transfer you need. Look at Prostocks, for instance. Very low to the ground. They rely on hit of the tires to transfer weight. Slower cars like stockers are much taller cause they need the transfer. A lower car is usually easier to drive and is a tad more aerodynamic though. If you're hooking solid now, all the more weight transfer won't help.
I'm hooking like **** right now, that's why i'm tryin to find ways to make it hook! I was going to raise the front using my springs, I have the hal drag springs up front that are adjustable ride height, would that be giving up travel?
Old 08-17-2005, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Nate_Taufer
pro stock keeps the cars as low as possible for aerodynamic properties. That way they really only need to counteract the front end pushing through the air and not the front end and the tires too.

Every little bit helps.

Nate
Well I know the lower, the less drag i'm gonna have, so how could I lower the rear w/o putting lowering springs in? Cuz it does sit pretty high with the 12-bolt and 28" tires, I can fit under there to adjust pinion angle and **** w/o jacking it up and i'm a pretty big guy at 270 - 280, of course i'm sure it helps that I have no catback in the way, but still.
Old 08-18-2005, 10:20 AM
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Devon you can cut the stock springs a little.
Old 08-18-2005, 10:23 AM
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Devon you can cut the stock springs a little.Also remove the stock spring isolaters and replace with heater hose.
Old 08-18-2005, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by z-ya
Devon you can cut the stock springs a little.Also remove the stock spring isolaters and replace with heater hose.
Ok, probably a dumb question, but what are the spring isolaters and how do I remove them?
Old 08-18-2005, 12:00 PM
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they are the black things that the top of the springs hit when you lower the body over them. i took mine out and it helped alot! i wouldn't cut the springs quite yet. I'd take those isolators out and put a rubber hose over the coil to prevent the squeaking from metal on metal. THEN if it's not low enough, go for the cutting
Old 08-18-2005, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Slow Z28
they are the black things that the top of the springs hit when you lower the body over them. i took mine out and it helped alot! i wouldn't cut the springs quite yet. I'd take those isolators out and put a rubber hose over the coil to prevent the squeaking from metal on metal. THEN if it's not low enough, go for the cutting
Aight cool man, i'll try it, but i've never fucked with my rear springs at all, how do I get the isolators out, and do I need a spring compressor and all to do it?
Old 08-18-2005, 12:46 PM
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Jack up the rear of the car, support it on the frame rails. Unbolt the lower control arms and shocks, lower the rear end just enough so that you can pull out the springs. Remove the isolators and replace with 1/2" ID rubber hose. It'll probably be a tight fit with the hose, so just lubricate it with some grease.
Old 08-18-2005, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Jack up the rear of the car, support it on the frame rails. Unbolt the lower control arms and shocks, lower the rear end just enough so that you can pull out the springs. Remove the isolators and replace with 1/2" ID rubber hose. It'll probably be a tight fit with the hose, so just lubricate it with some grease.
What he said....

i'm not saying it's BAD to cut the springs by any means, i just like going down slowly until i reached where i want it. and if you are running a big tire, got to look at clearances to make sure it fits as you lower it.
Old 08-18-2005, 04:30 PM
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Cool, thanks guys, i'll give that a try and see what happens!
Old 08-18-2005, 09:07 PM
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devon, my car sits skyhigh in the rear also and im hitting the tires to hard, ima take out my spring isolators which will lower it a tad and change my control arm angle automatically a lil bit to reduce the hard hit on my tires, if that dont cut it, ill move the lca's up a notch in the relo bracket. just make sure you recheck the pinion angle
Old 08-18-2005, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
devon, my car sits skyhigh in the rear also and im hitting the tires to hard, ima take out my spring isolators which will lower it a tad and change my control arm angle automatically a lil bit to reduce the hard hit on my tires, if that dont cut it, ill move the lca's up a notch in the relo bracket. just make sure you recheck the pinion angle
Cool, i'll make sure I recheck it after I do it, thanks for the heads up!




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