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What Powerglide?? Best Choice??

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Old 09-05-2005, 10:58 PM
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Default What Powerglide?? Best Choice??

Built by who and who's converter?? I know alot of people Say Neil Chance...
Do they like Heavy cars or lighter?? Anything special i should have done to one?? I know a transbreak is a must.
This will be for my new Turbo setup and we shot low HP wise and it should be able to make over our goal of 700rwhp.... Or should i just go with a built TH400???
Any input??
Thanks Kyle
Old 09-06-2005, 07:09 AM
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bah whats this getting rid of the manual already?

powerglides probably should be used on cars that are lighter then 3100lbs
id just use a T400, rossler makes a good one and good converters.
everyone i have known that used them have taken alot of abuse.
plus that extra gear will be nice if you want to drive it on the street at all.
Old 09-06-2005, 08:08 AM
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Kyle,

Here's my opinion. Glides are extremely light and rob the least amount of power for production trannys. I used to think that they only worked for lighter cars until my local tranny builder taught me different by showing me his 3400 lbs car go 1.18 short time. With my glide I put the car on the bumper with a 3265 raceweight with only 530 rwhp and went a best of 1.32 60'. Now I've gained quite a bit of weight with the new setup and still run my glide.

There are tons of converter choices and this is one area I always suggest folks don't skimp on. I've had great success with both Neal Chance and Coan.

I suspect you'll probably get more votes for the 400 so it will end up being what you feel is best for your setup. Just thought I'd through my .02 in.

Eric
Old 09-06-2005, 09:53 AM
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On the 'glide, I'd look at 1.80 straight cut gears in a good planetary. Get a good turbo spline input shaft. You can get roller bearings in the case and tail shaft to reduce friction. You can probably still run the stock case but the dedenbear case is nice and you won't need another trans shield. Look to spend $1300 min. for a decent glide to hold close to 900hp and closer to $2000 for one thats actually rated for 900+ hp. But for one with ALL the options its going to be closer to $3500-4000.
I think if you ask reputable builders about a th400, you'll get more people telling you it won't hold than people that tell you it will. Plus the deep (2.4x) 1st gear might make it harder to hook on a 10.5" tire than the 1.76-1.80 1st gear in a glide.
My car is a 496" NA BBC car that weighs ~3200# with me in it and has gone low 1.3x's in the 60'.
Old 09-06-2005, 12:09 PM
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GLIDE GLIDE GLIDE

If its a "race" car the glide is the way to go.
Old 09-06-2005, 12:52 PM
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How can you drive on the street with only 2 gears in a glide?
Old 09-06-2005, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 69vette
How can you drive on the street with only 2 gears in a glide?

The final gear is a 1:1 ratio just like any 3 speed. There is no 1st gear bog as asked about in the other thread. Actually with a race car that has a loose converter you tend to get the same sensation with most trannys - a higher rev, very "loose" feel as you try to accelerate at part throttle. If all things were the same it would just feel a little looser in a glide starting off at part throttle then a 3 speed.

Glides can be driven on the street and they were a factory item in many production cars. Big stalls just require a good tranny cooler to keep the temps down.
Old 09-06-2005, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by next
The final gear is a 1:1 ratio just like any 3 speed. There is no 1st gear bog as asked about in the other thread. Actually with a race car that has a loose converter you tend to get the same sensation with most trannys - a higher rev, very "loose" feel as you try to accelerate at part throttle. If all things were the same it would just feel a little looser in a glide starting off at part throttle then a 3 speed.

Glides can be driven on the street and they were a factory item in many production cars. Big stalls just require a good tranny cooler to keep the temps down.
yeah i knew they were both the same final gear but seems like starting out with a 2 speed would be difficult on the street. One guy i was talking to had told me with the glide and high stall he would end up spinning his street tires whenever he tried to move from a stop but it mmay just be the way his car was set up.
Old 09-06-2005, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 69vette
yeah i knew they were both the same final gear but seems like starting out with a 2 speed would be difficult on the street. One guy i was talking to had told me with the glide and high stall he would end up spinning his street tires whenever he tried to move from a stop but it mmay just be the way his car was set up.
i believe it is the opposite of this effect. a glide with its small first gear will NOT spin the tires whenever someone tries to move from a stop.
Old 09-06-2005, 03:25 PM
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Thanks alot guys..... i was hopeing some one would reply....
Yes it still has the 6 speed in it and im a firm believer it is the week link and will hold me back.
It is not a race car at this moment but has almost everything one does..... From the power it will be making it ooks like it will need a cage not a rollbar and im hopeing a chute.....
I only drive the thing to work and it will take it longer to warm up then it will to drive it there... its not even a mile and a half.
I am looking into buying another daily driver after i transfer this coming June so it will become a Trailor/track/weekend car after that anyways.
I have been looking at Glides and i think ill give Rossler a call and see what he says and how its going to run me..... i also first need to see were the car is now and were it sits hp wise and other things.... my new setup isnt done yet but should be within the month.... Ill have plenty of gear for a glide since i went with a 3.70 rear gear and i am going to step-up to a 28W next.
Just like you guys are saying the 1.76-1.80 first gear should help alot out of the hole on a 10.5" tire esp. with a turbo car.
Thanks for your input....
on side note how much does a Neil Chance/Conan Converter cost?? is the bolt togeather Chance converter really needed????

Thanks again
Kyle
Old 09-06-2005, 03:33 PM
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We sell Dedenbear case powerglides with the best of everything. We have them in several cars in the 2200-3200lb range making over 1000hp and 1.03-1.15 60's and they are living. Give me a call if you want to discuss some options.
Old 09-06-2005, 04:13 PM
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I wish I had gone with a glide...th400 for now and glide probably over the winter.
Old 09-06-2005, 04:20 PM
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3350 lbs, 1.8 1st gear glide for me. 2 piece Chance converter.

For a point of reference, we're running a 400 in Kevin's car with the same converter. He's 150lbs heavier, but we can't get his car to load the motor the same and boost in first gear is always lower. I can actually put more boost into the motor with the 400 while on the brake and hold traction than i could with my glide. But the rise time on boost was much lower with the glide (1.8 1st vs 2.48), and i would get 30 ft out and smoke the tires.

A 400 is just one more shift to mess up
Old 09-06-2005, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
i believe it is the opposite of this effect. a glide with its small first gear will NOT spin the tires whenever someone tries to move from a stop.
he must have not know what he was telling me then lol... still seems like 3 spds would be better than 2 for the street though
Old 09-06-2005, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
3350 lbs, 1.8 1st gear glide for me. 2 piece Chance converter.

For a point of reference, we're running a 400 in Kevin's car with the same converter. He's 150lbs heavier, but we can't get his car to load the motor the same and boost in first gear is always lower. I can actually put more boost into the motor with the 400 while on the brake and hold traction than i could with my glide. But the rise time on boost was much lower with the glide (1.8 1st vs 2.48), and i would get 30 ft out and smoke the tires.

A 400 is just one more shift to mess up

So what one ya saying go with Matt??
You would smoke the tires with the 400 or the glide??
After i do some more weight reduction like light weight brakes/kirkeys and other stuff i hope to be around or under 3400lbs.

Kyle
Old 09-06-2005, 05:09 PM
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NASTY get ahold of Brady(moderater here). He has the spare out of his car for sale. Its brand new and will hold the power.
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:33 PM
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The bolt together is good if you are going to refresh your own. If you just want to send it back to the manufacture, then the weld up will save you some bucks. If you go weld up, expect to be in the $1200 range. If you're thinking about one of the one's you listed just call Marty Chance or Dave Coan and let them make suggestions.
Old 09-06-2005, 07:51 PM
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I would use Lenny @ Ultimate or Joe @ Pro Torque. I'm not a fan of Neil Chance converters. The Racepak graphs I have seen show WAY too much converter slip.
Old 09-06-2005, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by KingCrapBox
I would use Lenny @ Ultimate or Joe @ Pro Torque. I'm not a fan of Neil Chance converters. The Racepak graphs I have seen show WAY too much converter slip.
First time I've ever heard a bad word about chance...sure it wasn't a transmission problem?
Old 09-06-2005, 08:05 PM
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Yeah. I've seen 6 or 7 different Racepak files all showing a very large percentage of slip. One was a $3,000 converter used by a Pro 5.0 racer.


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