What timer to use to bring in second stage?
10-03-2005, 10:06 PM
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What timer to use to bring in second stage? Just curious what's a good timer (that's not too expensive) to use to bring in my second stage. I've been looking and not really finding anything that's just a timer, everything i've seen does all sorts of other stuff and all I need it for is the timer, so I don't want to spend $500 for **** i'm not gonna use. Anyone have any suggestions for me? Cuz i'd much rather bring it in off a timer than off a window switch cuz if I spin with it on a window switch that'll spike the rpms and trigger the window switch and cause me to blow the tires off even worse, at least if i'm having some hooking issues I can back off the timer a bit and give the car a chance to gain it's traction back before whaloping it again! Thanks for any help guys, appreciate it!
One more question, i've been motor purging my wet kit, but my first stage now is going to be a dry kit, is it ok to motor purge a dry kit cuz they're both controlled off the wot switch, so when I purge they're both gonna hit? Also, I think I asked this once before but at that time I wasn't planning on hittin such a big shot cuz I was on the stock motor, will it be bad to motor purge with a 300 - 350 shot on the car, cuz like i've said before, if I don't motor purge the car initially falls on it's face out of the hole, don't know about with the dry kit, but definately with the wet kit!
One more question, i've been motor purging my wet kit, but my first stage now is going to be a dry kit, is it ok to motor purge a dry kit cuz they're both controlled off the wot switch, so when I purge they're both gonna hit? Also, I think I asked this once before but at that time I wasn't planning on hittin such a big shot cuz I was on the stock motor, will it be bad to motor purge with a 300 - 350 shot on the car, cuz like i've said before, if I don't motor purge the car initially falls on it's face out of the hole, don't know about with the dry kit, but definately with the wet kit!
10-03-2005, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Benji
NOS-15838 is the unit I would recommend.
I did a google search for nitrous timers and found this, would this get the job done, cuz for $200 cheaper, I don't care about looks!
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/no04c.asp
10-03-2005, 11:36 PM
#4
http://web01.racingjunk.com/exec/ca/...ssifiedad.html
You can get them even cheaper then that but..
If you want to buy from a sponsor you can use an NX 15964 for ~130.00 but they are all the same 12v digi set timer relay pretty much.
The MPS you posted will work as well, just a different brand.
You can get them even cheaper then that but..
If you want to buy from a sponsor you can use an NX 15964 for ~130.00 but they are all the same 12v digi set timer relay pretty much.
The MPS you posted will work as well, just a different brand.
10-04-2005, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by kp
http://web01.racingjunk.com/exec/ca/...ssifiedad.html
You can get them even cheaper then that but..
If you want to buy from a sponsor you can use an NX 15964 for ~130.00 but they are all the same 12v digi set timer relay pretty much.
The MPS you posted will work as well, just a different brand.
You can get them even cheaper then that but..
If you want to buy from a sponsor you can use an NX 15964 for ~130.00 but they are all the same 12v digi set timer relay pretty much.
The MPS you posted will work as well, just a different brand.
10-04-2005, 12:01 PM
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Digi Set..... Quartermax advertise's to have the cheapest price on them. http://www.rjracecars.com/cgi-bin/sq...5.10448&pid=69
10-04-2005, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Rick
Digi Set..... Quartermax advertise's to have the cheapest price on them. http://www.rjracecars.com/cgi-bin/sq...5.10448&pid=69
Curious though, with the quartermax one, can it be set so that if I have to pedal it it doesn't restart the timer (I usually don't spin that bad that I have to let out and hopefully with my new suspension components maybe not spin at all, but just in case ya know)?
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10-04-2005, 07:04 PM
#8
The Bull
Yep, get a Digiset delay on brake style timer. You use a break in the power to the relay before the timer starts. Works great off a trans brake or any other break in the power signal. They also have delay on make timers that activate when you apply power to your solenoids. A nice way to go about it too.
10-04-2005, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DERTY
Yep, get a Digiset delay on brake style timer. You use a break in the power to the relay before the timer starts. Works great off a trans brake or any other break in the power signal. They also have delay on make timers that activate when you apply power to your solenoids. A nice way to go about it too.
The way I was planning on wiring this up was actually pretty simple I thought. I have the wot switch which pretty much controls everything, the window switch controls the ground for the first stage dry relay and the digiset (for safety for both kits), the digiset controls the ground for the second stage wet relay and then I have a relay that controls the window switch so that when the t-brake is on it kills the ground to the window switch which in turn shuts everything off and as soon as i'm off the t-brake and launching, first stage dry will hit immediately and the digiset timer for the second stage wet will start counting. That should work, correct?
Do I have to wire something different to have the digiset not restart it's count if I have to let off and get back in, or is there an option on the digiset itself?
10-04-2005, 07:22 PM
#10
The Bull
Yes, that is a delay on break timer. You still have to power the digiset relay by sending it 12v. When 12v is applied it resets the timer. When 12v is removed the relay will count down and then the signal output on the relay will go to whatever you want. Do not use the digiset as your actual power relay though, you'll still need a regular relay. It has a very low current to it and you'll fry it if you power your solenoids.
The timer starts after you apply 12v and then remove it. If you are good with the electrical part of this you could potentially latch the relay so that it doesn't see 12v again until it's reset by unlatching it. But, if you just wire it up directly the timer will restart every time you apply 12v and take it away.
Moral of the story, don't be a ***** and stay in it. That'll save you a ton of work. Remember, the more wires and relays you put into this setup the more time it takes for everything to power up. So, the KISS methodology here will always work the fastest when wiring this stuff up.
The timer starts after you apply 12v and then remove it. If you are good with the electrical part of this you could potentially latch the relay so that it doesn't see 12v again until it's reset by unlatching it. But, if you just wire it up directly the timer will restart every time you apply 12v and take it away.
Moral of the story, don't be a ***** and stay in it. That'll save you a ton of work. Remember, the more wires and relays you put into this setup the more time it takes for everything to power up. So, the KISS methodology here will always work the fastest when wiring this stuff up.
10-04-2005, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DERTY
Yes, that is a delay on break timer. You still have to power the digiset relay by sending it 12v. When 12v is applied it resets the timer. When 12v is removed the relay will count down and then the signal output on the relay will go to whatever you want. Do not use the digiset as your actual power relay though, you'll still need a regular relay. It has a very low current to it and you'll fry it if you power your solenoids.
The timer starts after you apply 12v and then remove it. If you are good with the electrical part of this you could potentially latch the relay so that it doesn't see 12v again until it's reset by unlatching it. But, if you just wire it up directly the timer will restart every time you apply 12v and take it away.
Moral of the story, don't be a ***** and stay in it. That'll save you a ton of work. Remember, the more wires and relays you put into this setup the more time it takes for everything to power up. So, the KISS methodology here will always work the fastest when wiring this stuff up.
The timer starts after you apply 12v and then remove it. If you are good with the electrical part of this you could potentially latch the relay so that it doesn't see 12v again until it's reset by unlatching it. But, if you just wire it up directly the timer will restart every time you apply 12v and take it away.
Moral of the story, don't be a ***** and stay in it. That'll save you a ton of work. Remember, the more wires and relays you put into this setup the more time it takes for everything to power up. So, the KISS methodology here will always work the fastest when wiring this stuff up.
10-04-2005, 07:39 PM
#12
The Bull
Unless your transbrake operates your reverse button, take the power right from the transbrake wire itself. Then you will not have to wait the extra 15 to 20ms for a relay to flash up. You basically want the least number of electrical contacts possible. I know it sounds crazy, but every extra latency pushes the delay out a few more milliseconds and after a while you'll find out the thing has an extra half second of delay in it to account for.
10-04-2005, 07:40 PM
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I was going to run a wire straight from the wot switch for the trigger for the digiset, but would that start the timer when I go wot on the t-brake or no since the timer has no ground cuz of the t-brake killing the window switch which is killing the first stage dry and the timer which is killing the second stage wet? Cuz then i'd just do that.
10-04-2005, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DERTY
Unless your transbrake operates your reverse button, take the power right from the transbrake wire itself. Then you will not have to wait the extra 15 to 20ms for a relay to flash up. You basically want the least number of electrical contacts possible. I know it sounds crazy, but every extra latency pushes the delay out a few more milliseconds and after a while you'll find out the thing has an extra half second of delay in it to account for.
10-04-2005, 09:07 PM
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Okay, I drew up a diagram of how I have my stuff wired up now and scanned it in and then drew up a diagram of how I was thinking it should be for both stages and scanned it in, it helps me to draw things out, let me know what you think and if i'm thinking correctly. Basically the digiset is like a regular relay except when it's triggered it has a counter on it before it sends the output signal, correct?
*Edit* says file is too large and will not let me attach, derty, what's ur email, i'd like to send you these diagrams so I can know if i'm thinkin correctly? Thanks for the help man!
*Edit* says file is too large and will not let me attach, derty, what's ur email, i'd like to send you these diagrams so I can know if i'm thinkin correctly? Thanks for the help man!
10-04-2005, 09:10 PM
#16
The Bull
