JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I am wanting to get a 6 point this season. So I've been shopping around.

I'm not real sure what I need. But I want it to be NHRA legal. I plan on runnig mid to low 10's.

I want VERY good fit and finish. Swing out door bars and maybe a removeable center bar. And the crotch bar.

So far the best I've seen is the wolf.

I'm not sure if I want the bolt in or weld in. I can weld it in myself. I am a 14 year body man by trade. But I'm a little worried about burning the interior parts. I have a mig welder.

Should it be tigged together?

Bolt in or weld in? Pros and coms please?

Once I known what I really want I can start calling and price matching.

Also, I know a welder who can get a discount on S&W chassis parts. But I've heard a few complaints about fitment issues from them.

Any advice would be great, Thanks.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

weld in 6point wolf that is jig notched
im not sure swing out doors are NHRA legal especially not the removeable center.

it needs to be tig welded
and i put a chrome moly roll bar in for extra weight savings.

you need all the seats out and carpet pulled up to wherer you put thet tips of your toes.

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

The Wolfe 20% off sale is still good through tommorow.

I like my Wolfe 6 point bolt in. If I had to do it again though, I would probrably go with a weld in. It's worth the extra time.

samdogmx

iTrader: (14)

if you get mild steel you can mig weld it, chromeoly has to be tig welded, the removable rear bar is NOT legal, I'm not sure but I think the swingout door bars ARE legal till 8.5s

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Were is this sale going on? The GP section?

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

Go to wolfe racecraft's site for the sale. I had his bolt in 6 pt and it was top notch quality and fit. Nice thing about a bolt-in is you can powder coat it (what I did) and you can always remove/sell it later if your plans change (like mine did). You'll need to remove about 90% of your interior for a weld in due to sparks and paint overspray. Only thing I removed is the seats. The tradeoff is a small loss in chassis stiffness.

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

www.WolfeRacecraft.com ( a sponsor here )

If you have a MIG, get the mild steel one so you can weld it in yourself. Chrome Moly requires TIG welding. You can just remove the interior to do the welding, or get some fireproof blankets to cover stuff.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

Swing outs are NHRA legal, but the rear center bar must be welded in. To be NHRA legal, you don't need a 6-point (passenger side bar), only a 5-point.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I just placed an online order for a 6 point weld-in 4130 chromoly with dual swing outs and jig notched.

The sale is going on until the 8th.

I ordered it with the rear bars, through the speaker holes. Should I have got the other style, to the rear deck floor??

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

Speaker holes or deck, its just in what you think looks better. i got the speaker holes cause i daily drive my car and they allow for better rear visability.
I got the Chromoly 5 point weld in. the absolute lightest roll bar you can get and still be legal.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Good point. I don't want the rear veiw blocked from the bars.

So, how does the rear pannels fit? Did you have to make a cut were the pannel will slide around the tubing?
How about the speaker cover? I'm guessing its kinda hard to cut a perfect circle in the right spot.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

Yeah i cut a slit in it and a hole in the speaker grill. i cut one of my grills a little too big and it keeps popping out.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

so your going to have someone tig them in?