lafnlt1

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I need to find some info on the proper wiring for an f-body to relocate the battery in the rear. Now, the way I always thought is to run one positive cable to the starter and branch everything from there. Then to run one ground to the switch then the body of the car in the rear. This is the way that 99% of the people that i talked to run theirs. The problem with that is if the engine is running and the switch is turned off, the car will stay running because the alternator will stay excited and keep the system alive, everything has a ground. Just like if the battery cables were removed while the car was running, it will stay running.

This is the way I belive the system needs to be run but it has a flaw. I would need to run two positive cables to the front, one goes to the starter and the other goes to the alternator. The cable goes to the starter also feeds the rest of the system. The cable that goes to the alternator does not go to anything else. Now, at the switch, the starter cable is at one terminal and the alternator cable is at the other. The alternator cable terminal is also the terminal for the battery. The battery is grounded to the frame. So, when the switch is turned on, it connects the battery to the starter and the rest of the system, when it is turned off, the started and the rest of the system is disconnected.

Now, the cable that connects the alternator to the switch is always connected to the battery at the same terminal of the switch. But with the switch turned off and shuts the rest of the system including the exciter wire to the alternator, so the alternator shuts off and does not charge. Now, wired in this way, the car will shut off. This seems to be correct but the flaw would be that the alternator is always connected.

I would like to know if there are anyother ways to wire a battery relocation to shut down the whole electrical system including the alternator or is one of these ways correct. Any input would be great other wise I will most likly wire the system with two cables. Thanks

Tom the roofer

iTrader: (9)

Here is how mine is set up and it will shut the entire system down and recharge the battery.

Ground cable from batt. to ground.

Positive cable from batt. to the cutoff switch. Positive cable from cutoff switch to the firewall. Branches off to the starter and to the fuse box. The altenator cable back to the positive terminal on the battery. Do not run a cable from the fuse box to the alt. as it will back feed the system. Works for me.

lafnlt1

iTrader: (4)

ok, that is just how i thought it needed to be, only i was thinking of running the alt. cable to the batt. side of the cut off switch, it is basicaly the same setup you run.

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

tom is referring to the battery side of the switch when he says positive side.

that is all exactly how mine is done as well.

lafnlt1

iTrader: (4)

this looks like the right way to go but is there a way to shut down the alt. side for convinence purpouses like working on the system. and also i just thought of this as well, i run a caspers electronics voltage booster that also connects to the positive side of the alternator, i wounder if this might have some impact on the system

Tom the roofer

iTrader: (9)

Yes the alt. is HOT all the time. I just pull the negative cable from the batt. when I need to work on that system.

I guess you could hook up an internal cutoff switch. I've seen some install an inline fuse from the alt. to the positive batt. terminal.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

tom, what size wire did you run from the battery to alternator?

Tom the roofer

iTrader: (9)

Brian I run a #2 wire from the batt to the alt. I run 0-1 wire from the batt to the switch and from the switch to the firewall. Its thicker than #1-0. I could have the zero's mixed up but its a dang thick wire. I run a #2 to the fuse box.

lafnlt1

iTrader: (4)

by the way, the best place to get the stuff is welding supply companies, good stuff.