Got the door bars out
03-27-2006, 01:05 PM
#1
LS1TECH Sponsor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Out on the farm in Central IL
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got the door bars out Not the worst job but up there on the list. The front bolts were a pain. The back one was easy. The bars slid out the grommet in the dooe and into the front wheel well. Good tip on that one.
They are heavy!
They are heavy!
Trending Topics
03-27-2006, 02:37 PM
#8
On The Tree
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Off topic,
Believe it or not I know people that have used them to straighten frames in a frame machine. My dad keeps one in the shop to adjust bumpers when people come in wanting a quick free adjustment after running into something.
Its funny how such a strong peice of metal is connected with relatively weak brackets.
Believe it or not I know people that have used them to straighten frames in a frame machine. My dad keeps one in the shop to adjust bumpers when people come in wanting a quick free adjustment after running into something.
Its funny how such a strong peice of metal is connected with relatively weak brackets.
03-27-2006, 03:42 PM
#11
no thats 15lbs total for both mine weight in a about 7lbs each
and heres the 1 1/2 hole I drilled to get bar out and then put in a body plug to cover hole
I wouldn't recommend anyone to do this to any daily driver as you will have no protection if a car hits you from the side ...thats why I installed a 6pt cage just before taking my bars out and if I take rollbar out of car door bars going back in for safety...FWIW
and heres the 1 1/2 hole I drilled to get bar out and then put in a body plug to cover hole
I wouldn't recommend anyone to do this to any daily driver as you will have no protection if a car hits you from the side ...thats why I installed a 6pt cage just before taking my bars out and if I take rollbar out of car door bars going back in for safety...FWIW
03-27-2006, 04:53 PM
#12
LS1TECH Sponsor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Out on the farm in Central IL
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 6 pt in the car. You don't need to drill a hole in the door. Pull the inner fenderwell liner on the front wheel. Push out the grommet at the front of the door. One person can push and another pull they will slide right out into the wheel well.
The back 15mm bolt is easy to get. The 2 front 10mm bolts will test your patience. I welded a 10MM socket to a peice of flat stock and ended up grinding on the socket to make a tool. Oh, and GM glues the front of the bar to the bracket. That was fun too.
The back 15mm bolt is easy to get. The 2 front 10mm bolts will test your patience. I welded a 10MM socket to a peice of flat stock and ended up grinding on the socket to make a tool. Oh, and GM glues the front of the bar to the bracket. That was fun too.
03-27-2006, 07:16 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Steve Burger
I have a 6 pt in the car. You don't need to drill a hole in the door. Pull the inner fenderwell liner on the front wheel. Push out the grommet at the front of the door. One person can push and another pull they will slide right out into the wheel well.
The back 15mm bolt is easy to get. The 2 front 10mm bolts will test your patience. I welded a 10MM socket to a peice of flat stock and ended up grinding on the socket to make a tool. Oh, and GM glues the front of the bar to the bracket. That was fun too.
The back 15mm bolt is easy to get. The 2 front 10mm bolts will test your patience. I welded a 10MM socket to a peice of flat stock and ended up grinding on the socket to make a tool. Oh, and GM glues the front of the bar to the bracket. That was fun too.
Depending on the year of your car the bars are attached different ways. My car had 2 10mm bolts up front and 2 10mm bolts on the back of the door. The back ones wernt bad but the front ones were a PITA. I ended up cutting down a 10mm socket and welding a small 3/8s nut to the back of it. Then I was able to put ratchiting wrench on my welded on nut.
07-29-2006, 06:56 PM
#17
11 Second Club
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
Posts: 2,686
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
I finally pulled the bars from the doors.
No need to make any special tooling. I went to Sears and bought a set of metric sockets that allow you to use a wrench on the end. VERY slim so it's easy to get to the bolts. The damn glue makes it hard to turn though
.
You'll need 10mm for the bolts towards the door hinge side and 15mm for the bolt on the door striker side. I was able to pull the bars through the grommets on the doors.
I know this thread is old but I was very helpful for me. I figured I would add a little more to it for future reference.
No need to make any special tooling. I went to Sears and bought a set of metric sockets that allow you to use a wrench on the end. VERY slim so it's easy to get to the bolts. The damn glue makes it hard to turn though
.You'll need 10mm for the bolts towards the door hinge side and 15mm for the bolt on the door striker side. I was able to pull the bars through the grommets on the doors.
I know this thread is old but I was very helpful for me. I figured I would add a little more to it for future reference.
07-29-2006, 07:17 PM
#19
11 Second Club
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
Posts: 2,686
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally Posted by frcefed98
Woulda been easier if you had some gear wrenches to use with those sockets.
No thanks, I knew I had what I needed to get the job done.
