Cbrakllr

iTrader: (2)

O.K. I cant get this straight, I look at the cam only times and they are running mid 10's with just gears,converter,cam,slicks,and little bolt ons. But there are guys out there that have H/C packages with way more horsepower and only run like low 12's or 11's, whats with that? I have a strong felling that with the mods in my sig and the MS3 installed that I will run 10's, even boosted guys arent running that on stock blocks. I want to know if I buy my buddies patroit h/c package that would net me more hp than just a cam if I could run 10's how is this done? someone please fill me in

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

It takes much more than just power to run those numbers. It's all in how the car is setup.

obrien24

iTrader: (2)

Alot of it is weight reduction. I would say you are going to need a much higher stall for you combo to get you into the 10's but I could be wrong. Your car is very similar to mine, the main difference is the trans.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

There are a lot of factors.

Weight is one, putting the power to ground (this involves suspension, gearing, trans convertor or clutch selection), efficiency of driveline, etc.

As an example, my Nova only makes 372 rwhp and weighs 3500 lbs with me, and has worse aerodynamics than any 3rd or 4th gen F-body. But making good use of the power and torque from the starting line to the finish line is a big factor is ultimately getting the numbers you are looking for.

Just my $.02

Derek

slow2000z28

dont know about 1/4 time but theres a f body m6 runnig DR's and spraying a 150 shot , LT's and true duals,w/ stock internals. he runs 7.3 in an 1/8. then there is a vert vet w/ H/C, LT's, DR's, 3000 stall, said it mad 412 rwhp. and had 4.10 gears. he ran a 7.2 1/8. and he had lots of suspension mods

black_z

iTrader: (4)

Weight is a huge factor.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

These cars really fly once you take 800 lbs out of them.
My car is VERY close to 10's with just bolt ons and weight reduction.

obrien24

iTrader: (2)

damn you car is light. lol I am trying to get into the 10s @ 3700 lb raceweight. It doesn't help that I am almost 250.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

Hell weight reduction is like a religion to me. Couple years when i started my car was an M6 @ 3555 lbs with me in it. i took out ALOT of weight and even lost some flab myself, i weighed 227 lbs and got all the way down to 177 lbs, just to go faster.

Packy

iTrader: (11)

Now who says boosted guys aren't getting into the 10's... I know plenty of boosted LS1's with stock bottom ends in the 10's. Not to mention the built ones that are running deep into the 10's and even 9's!

What you are also referring to also has alot to do with traction. I know from my own experiences that a lot of people have a lot of faith in DR's. Well for an automatic they are great but manuals don't fare as good with them. Not saying that people can't cut good 60's with them but the average driver is not going to get below a 1.7X with DR's. Most people add power and then go looking for suspension and traction. Hence the reason there are 11 and 12 sec. H/C, N2O, boosted LS1's. Then you have to look at the weight issue. Most cars weigh anywhere from 3500-3900 lbs with gas and driver. Once you factor in all of those considerations you will see that is the reason why some people don't run the numbers that some would expect to.

Gold Z

iTrader: (3)

Don't believe every thing you read. While most members are legit there are a lot of kids on here with shall we say "slightly" exagerated claims. Some don't even own a car yet they have one in their sig. I have met several of these people at different functions. When you question where the pieces are that are listed in their sig they usually reply, "well I plan on getting them later". These same people usually have some "estimated" times listed in their sig too. They are usually very nice young men and they mean well, they are just trying to fit in but going about it the wrong way.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

then you have us young guns who are bit so hard by the bug they having everything they say plus more

spanktu

iTrader: (19)

gonna need alot more than a 2800 stall NA,
or if you stick with 2800 put a large shot across her

mvonada

When you get there with all the advice you recieved here, start thinking 12 bolt and TH400, as your tranny and 10 bolt just became the weak link in the food chain.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

if he's talking cam or heads cam, th350.... 400 weighs to much and is not needed at that power level

Cbrakllr

iTrader: (2)

Ya of course im going to go with a different converter but imma gonna wait till my stock tranny craps out then ill probably go with a 350 or 400.

spanktu

iTrader: (19)

the 4l60s hold real well along with the 10 bolts if you put a good diff. in it
I have not heard any noise out of my 10 bolt yet with a
auburn pro diff. and just laid down a 1.53 on DRs
and my 110k mile tranny is shifting fine!

sdm1234

iTrader: (8)

A lot of people who run 10's do not list their suspension upgrades in their signature or even mention them, and that's 75% of the reason they're times are so low.