Can't lower 60' to save my life, someone help me!
08-05-2006, 11:03 PM
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Can't lower 60' to save my life, someone help me! well after swapping my heads out for some TEA's, I was hoping for a better time then my last best of 12.27@115 with a 1.86 60'. The best I got out of it was a 12.48@115 with a 2.05 60'! I can't my 60' down for nothing, even though it was about 95* and humid. I am running TEA stage 1, F13, full bolt on's, mcleod clutch, and moser 12 bolt with 4.10's, full suspension except torque arm, and little stuff here and there. I had my hal's set at 3 in the front, 6 in the rear, first 3 launches I was dumping at 4k and spinning, 2 times I slipped it at 3k and 4k. I did cut a 1.95 when slipping at 4k but I slipped it a little too hard and the cluch slipped just about all the way down the track. I was running 17" MT drag radials at 17 lbs. Anyone have any suggestions for the next time out to help me? I am hoping to dip in the 11's but I feel like either I can't drive or the car isn't capable of 11's.
08-06-2006, 02:44 AM
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Durring your burn out are you side stepping the clutch and stabbing your clutch foot into your brake pedal? Right foot never lets out the gas. try to hold 4000rpms till the rpms start coming up without you adding more gas.
Then your tires are ready and since your clutch is fully ingaged, (it is not hot) and it is ready also.
Your car has plenty of power, launch at 2500 once then 3000, and that is prob. all you'll be able to do. On the street feather the clutch pedal out of the hole. On the track side step it. your tires will do the rest! 
Using this tech. helped me run 3 - 12.02 time slips (100shot) one night at HRP. Nothing like having your car completely covered in white smoke!!
Use the open pam tech. so you never miss that damb third gear!
Then your tires are ready and since your clutch is fully ingaged, (it is not hot) and it is ready also.
Your car has plenty of power, launch at 2500 once then 3000, and that is prob. all you'll be able to do. On the street feather the clutch pedal out of the hole. On the track side step it. your tires will do the rest! Using this tech. helped me run 3 - 12.02 time slips (100shot) one night at HRP. Nothing like having your car completely covered in white smoke!!
Use the open pam tech. so you never miss that damb third gear!
08-06-2006, 05:45 AM
#5
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One point to add.
The MT Street Radials are very sensitive to the burnout.
First pass, fully smokey burnout.
Second and all other passes that day, spin them JUST until first smoke. MT calls that hazing the tires.
If you make strong smoke on 2d+ burnout, the MT Radials get greasy and it costs .15-.20 on the 60'.
Ranger
The MT Street Radials are very sensitive to the burnout.
First pass, fully smokey burnout.
Second and all other passes that day, spin them JUST until first smoke. MT calls that hazing the tires.
If you make strong smoke on 2d+ burnout, the MT Radials get greasy and it costs .15-.20 on the 60'.
Ranger
08-06-2006, 09:42 AM
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on my burnout, I just drop the clutch at about 3k and then hit the brake and it bring it up about 5k and hold there until I see smoke, then I roll out the box.
Before I've launched it at 4-5k and it's bogged when I've deadhooked, so I kind of gave up on that method, and I really don't want to dump it at 6k like everyone's going to tell me.
Before I've launched it at 4-5k and it's bogged when I've deadhooked, so I kind of gave up on that method, and I really don't want to dump it at 6k like everyone's going to tell me.
08-06-2006, 09:52 AM
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The right launch has several variables.
I found improvement by changing one variable at a time, while holding the others constant.
In seeking the right launch rpm, I raise or lower it by 200-300 rpm increments. If it bogs, raise the launch rpm; if it spins, lower the launch rpm.
That assumes consistent tire pressure, burnout smoke, clutch release and throttle squeeze.
Remember the diff in burnouts between first pass and 2+ passes.
You also need to be careful to not get water into the wheel wells, because it will drip back down onto the heated tires = spin city.
Ranger
I found improvement by changing one variable at a time, while holding the others constant.
In seeking the right launch rpm, I raise or lower it by 200-300 rpm increments. If it bogs, raise the launch rpm; if it spins, lower the launch rpm.
That assumes consistent tire pressure, burnout smoke, clutch release and throttle squeeze.
Remember the diff in burnouts between first pass and 2+ passes.
You also need to be careful to not get water into the wheel wells, because it will drip back down onto the heated tires = spin city.
Ranger
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08-06-2006, 12:03 PM
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he has a 12-bolt....
If I was you..I would get some pro-stars for the track, get some 275-60-15's and hold it on the rev box....**** slippin the clutch and all that ****...last yellow light, STAND ON IT HARD!!!!! Let it bounce off the rev box once and side step it........thats just the way I see it....if it breaks, it breaks.....In my honest opinion when I go to the track, its all or nothing.......
If I was you..I would get some pro-stars for the track, get some 275-60-15's and hold it on the rev box....**** slippin the clutch and all that ****...last yellow light, STAND ON IT HARD!!!!! Let it bounce off the rev box once and side step it........thats just the way I see it....if it breaks, it breaks.....In my honest opinion when I go to the track, its all or nothing.......
08-07-2006, 03:10 PM
#10
get some m&h racemaster cheeter slicks,i run 26x11.5x15 on some welds. www.intercotire.com i dump the clutch at 6,000 6,500 and 7,000,no spin dead hook with the wheels off the ground. i'm sure i don't have any suspenchion mods that you dont,so loose the radials for a better tire. i cut 1.45 to 1.50 60's all day and my car is 3,500ish lbs without me in it. also,get a linelock and do the burnout in 2nd gear NOT first. goodluck to ya.
08-07-2006, 06:31 PM
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well I had M/T ET Streets 26x11.50x15, I liked em, but I couldn't stand the high speed sway I got on the top end of the track, so that's basically the reason I swapped out for DR's, and also, my goal is to run 11's with full weight, nothing stripped out the car, exactly how I drive it on the street. I have my M/T DR's mounted on 2 spare TT2's to match my front wheels. With my current times I posted, do you think I have a 11 second car?
08-07-2006, 07:07 PM
#12
you must be running the tires with lo-psi. i run mine at 14 cold they end up 17hot and no topend sway. my car is also close to stock weight and not striped down. i ran 11.15@ 125 with nothing removed but skinny front tires. i also drive on the street w/my cheeter slicks. i was thinking of putting m/t radials on my stock rims,but for racing street or track it's cheeter slicks. yes,you do have an 11 sec ride if you can get the 60's down. you will need the holeshot,with your car being a m6 w/ the low 115mph speed it tells me your not making tuns of power in the humid weather. don't take that as a slam,it was not ment to be so. goodluck to ya.
08-07-2006, 07:12 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Hardtop00SS
I ran the ET Streets at 15 psi. after my MT DR go bald, think I should switch to 17" ET Streets?
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08-07-2006, 09:23 PM
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My car is a full weight cam only except for skinnies on front.I use M/T's and use 2nd gear with a short burnout at 5k until the tires pull the motor down then let off the linelock and roll out until the tires hook.I use a real quick clutch slip at 4.5k and mat it.I know its not a world beater but I can run easy 11's at almost 118 every pass off the street.If you get the launch down and keep the clutch from slipping you are in the 11's.
08-08-2006, 04:42 AM
#16
I think the 17" tire is part of your problem and I've read that MT doesn't recommend the DR's for stick cars because they shock the tire too much.
I also think the stock torque arm is hurting your 60'.
Get a good torque arm and a bias ply drag tire and I think you'll be good to go.
I also think the stock torque arm is hurting your 60'.
Get a good torque arm and a bias ply drag tire and I think you'll be good to go.
08-09-2006, 09:10 PM
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The world fastest DR car is running M/T DR, he's running a transbrake, I don't see how my car with them would be a problem. I guess when they go out I will try the 17" ET Street and see how that works, I am currently looking for a TA right now, I'd like to go with a tunnel mount.
08-09-2006, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Hardtop00SS
The world fastest DR car is running M/T DR, he's running a transbrake, I don't see how my car with them would be a problem. I guess when they go out I will try the 17" ET Street and see how that works, I am currently looking for a TA right now, I'd like to go with a tunnel mount.
the guy with the fastest DR car has $10,000+ worth of suspension....the thing better hook........Dont give up on the ET radials....witha 17in et street, you will have top end sway....get your pressure right...you will love the MT's.....