Drag Racing Tech
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Setup Tips please

Old 09-12-2006, 01:27 PM
  #1  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Fire67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Setup Tips please

Im finally getting this car close to being ready for some shakedown passes..
So I was hoping someone on here could give me some pointers and or suspension setup tips. Here's my setup:

Everything in the sig (still a M6) plus,
- BMR boxed subframes
- BMR non-adj LCA's
- BMR Trak Pak Tq arm set to -1.5
- BMR relocation brackets
- Spohn adj. Panhard
- Spohn adj Drag swaybar
- QA1 Double adj front shocks
- 300# front springs
- QA1 Single adj rear shocks
- stock rear springs
- Prostar 15x10 and 15-4.5 wheels
- 28x10.5-15 ET drags out back
- Stenod 6pt roll bar
- 9" rear (Moser housing/axles, Strange Pro center section, 35 spline spool, 3.70 gears)
- Expecting 600-650rwhp
- Most interior will be intact; except for back seats, spare tire, jack, etc.

If this was your first pass in a car like this, how would you set all this up to avoid a scary ride.
In other words:
Can someone recommend baseline shock settings, tire pressure, torque arm and swaybar settings?

Last but not least, Ive never launched any manual car on slicks... Plenty of times with automatic cars of similar build levels though. How should I do it; 4K rpm dump? 4K slipping the clutch slightly? Or is it gonna be something I'll just have to experiment with untill I get it right or get a TH-400 that I know how to launch?

Thanks in advance guys/gals!!!
Old 09-12-2006, 01:45 PM
  #2  
11 Second Club
 
Bitemark46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

For the 1st pass I'd come out at a moderate rpm but not full tilt. Like you said 4k or so. M6 and slicks you dump it, no feathering. But I would only stay in it for about 100ft then shut down. Get back to the pits and take a look the rear suspension making sure nothing has shifted, loosened or broke. I'd rather find it in the pits then going 120+ and finding out it broke. If everything seems ok then do a 1/8th pass and shut down. Re-check everything and then make a full pass. If it's straight on the launch and solid on the top end then go full bore the next run. My way may be too cautiuous but I'd rather live to race another day. Good luck.
-Mark
Old 09-12-2006, 02:51 PM
  #3  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Fire67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Bitemark46:
I feel that sentiment... And def will be going at it a little at a time, working my way up to a full on pass... No one wants to find stuff like that out the hard way.

I know the sway bar will have to be adjusted out depending on how the car launches. I'll start out with a small amount of preload, but even on both sides... Though Im sure it will need more on the pass side than the drivers side.

For the TQ arm, Ive always had good luck with 1.5 degrees down (-1.5), So Im probably gonna leave it like that for the sake of having something to start with.

But for the shocks I have no clue where to start other than that I want the rear to be stiffer than the front, and with my front DA QA1's Im gonna want a softer rebound and harder compression.
Anyone have some 'click' counts I can use as a baseline?
Old 09-12-2006, 03:55 PM
  #4  
TECH Apprentice
 
1STGEN68-2000SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Houston
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

We run the rear shocks set at 4. Make sure that the Spohn swaybar is not touching the side of the shocks after the first pass. We had to weld a thin tab on the side of the shock tower to keep the swaybar off the shocks. This may be because we are running the madman lower shock mount.
Alan
Old 09-13-2006, 08:44 AM
  #5  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Fire67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 1STGEN68-2000SS
We run the rear shocks set at 4. Make sure that the Spohn swaybar is not touching the side of the shocks after the first pass. We had to weld a thin tab on the side of the shock tower to keep the swaybar off the shocks. This may be because we are running the madman lower shock mount.
Alan
How were you having the swaybar make contact with the shocks? I just dont see it moving unless you didnt tighten the mounts down to the axle tubes...
Got a pic of this 'thin tab' you welded up that would show its purpose???
Thanks for the rear shock number, will try that as a starting point and soften or firm from there as needed.

Anyone wanna share their Front Double Adjustable C & R settings?


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:23 PM.