Squeezing the most out of my setup... help
#1
Squeezing the most out of my setup... help
I want to get as much as I can out of the combo thats in place, I see people running 11.6X's etc. with the same power. How do I do it? Do I need more suspension (using a MT ET Street), better methods (please suggest a launching method). What would you do with my car to get to run some good ET's? I don't want to do more power until I can get the most out of the power I have. Thanks for ANY input at all
This is what I have as far as mods:
Motor
02 LS1 with ARP Rod bolts (yea baby... rod bolts).
Stage II 241, 1.6's and 2.02's, with Crane Duals
TR 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA (Baby cam!)
LS6 Intake/PCV with Breathers
P&P'd TB with Bypass
Pacesetter LT's with Hooker ORY
Dyno-Mouth Exhaust (Same setup as a loud mouth, 3 inches all the way back and a 12 inch bullet)
Transmission
XP Stage II 4L60E
TCI SSF 3500 2.5 STR Stall
TransGo shift kit
B&M Deep Pan
B&M 24k Cooler
Chassis/Suspension
UMI SFC's
UMI LCA Relocation Brackets
Spohn LCA's
Spohn Adj. Panhard Rod
Eibach Pro-Kit
Revaled Bilstein shocks/struts
This is what I have as far as mods:
Motor
02 LS1 with ARP Rod bolts (yea baby... rod bolts).
Stage II 241, 1.6's and 2.02's, with Crane Duals
TR 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA (Baby cam!)
LS6 Intake/PCV with Breathers
P&P'd TB with Bypass
Pacesetter LT's with Hooker ORY
Dyno-Mouth Exhaust (Same setup as a loud mouth, 3 inches all the way back and a 12 inch bullet)
Transmission
XP Stage II 4L60E
TCI SSF 3500 2.5 STR Stall
TransGo shift kit
B&M Deep Pan
B&M 24k Cooler
Chassis/Suspension
UMI SFC's
UMI LCA Relocation Brackets
Spohn LCA's
Spohn Adj. Panhard Rod
Eibach Pro-Kit
Revaled Bilstein shocks/struts
#5
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Originally Posted by matts22
I agree with camscam02...
I'm no expert, but being lowered probably hurts as well.
I'm no expert, but being lowered probably hurts as well.
a REAL tire, bigger converter and good air are the key. what is your 60' now? track tuned for optimum shift points?
#6
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the two lowered cars i've ran at the track haven't hooked as good as they should. thats not to say they can't just because they're lowered, but i think with a better ride height they would've run better at the track.
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#8
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lose as much weight as possible, battery relocation, remove front swaybar, skinnies upfront, good tire in the back, adjustable shocks all four corners, play with the launch rpms etc, track tuning: log with hptuners or efi live and change shift points etc for optimum track performance....change the fluids, might go with shortbelt, pray for good weather....etc etc start with that then we will go from there
#9
Yea, I'm working on the !weight right now, suspension is pretty much setup, do you think I should try a TQ arm? Tranny is setup for decently firm shifts. Unfortunately I have no 60's, they didn't give us short times (stupid I know) and I've only been once.
#10
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
i dont understand why people think lowered cars can not hook?
a REAL tire, bigger converter and good air are the key. what is your 60' now? track tuned for optimum shift points?
a REAL tire, bigger converter and good air are the key. what is your 60' now? track tuned for optimum shift points?
#11
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
i dont understand why people think lowered cars can not hook?
a REAL tire, bigger converter and good air are the key. what is your 60' now? track tuned for optimum shift points?
a REAL tire, bigger converter and good air are the key. what is your 60' now? track tuned for optimum shift points?
location and air is key!! here in jersey we can see -1500DA easy during the cold months but if i were to go to say vegas, i may only be able to run 11.9s cause its 2000ft above sea level.
also tune is another big factor.
get back to me what your elevation is at the track...
whast your current 1/4 times?
-brandon