How much was your Rollbar Installed?
01-23-2007, 12:01 PM
#1
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How much was your Rollbar Installed? Just wanted to see what you are all paying for rollbar installs? I want to one but was thinking about getting a weld in from wolf and just finding someone to weld it in, OR should I just have someone do it from scrach?
Dan
Dan
01-23-2007, 12:05 PM
#2
it's gonna depend alot on:
1) What type metal
2) Where you are in the US
3) Shop's experience with rollcages
4) How long you are willing to wait while you look for "the right shop with the right price"
5)Is the cage jig-nothced or not
generally expect anywhere from 500-800 to install a 6pt chromoly in my area. Other areas are cheaper, others are more $$$.
1) What type metal
2) Where you are in the US
3) Shop's experience with rollcages
4) How long you are willing to wait while you look for "the right shop with the right price"
5)Is the cage jig-nothced or not
generally expect anywhere from 500-800 to install a 6pt chromoly in my area. Other areas are cheaper, others are more $$$.
Last edited by tim99ws6; 01-23-2007 at 03:18 PM.
01-23-2007, 01:59 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by tim99ws6
it's gonna depend alot on:
1) What type metal
2) Where you are in the US
3) Shop's experience with rollcages
4) How long you are willing to wait while you look for "the right shop with the right price"
generally expect anywhere from 500-800 to install a 6pt chromoly in my area. Other areas are cheaper, others are more $$$.
1) What type metal
2) Where you are in the US
3) Shop's experience with rollcages
4) How long you are willing to wait while you look for "the right shop with the right price"
generally expect anywhere from 500-800 to install a 6pt chromoly in my area. Other areas are cheaper, others are more $$$.
I was thinking a mild steel 6 point, as i was told a chromoly 6 point is only like 5 or so pounds lighter. I am in Minnesota the few shops I was at were at around $2000
No way I am going to pay that much so I guess I will keep looking at different shops. Thats why I posted this question to see if they were close or way off in price. Dan
01-23-2007, 03:18 PM
#7
Originally Posted by SLPSS99
I was thinking a mild steel 6 point, as i was told a chromoly 6 point is only like 5 or so pounds lighter. I am in Minnesota the few shops I was at were at around $2000 No way I am going to pay that much so I guess I will keep looking at different shops. Thats why I posted this question to see if they were close or way off in price.
Dan
No way I am going to pay that much so I guess I will keep looking at different shops. Thats why I posted this question to see if they were close or way off in price. Dan
Yea, um, thats WAY off. Chromoly is a little harder to weld, and requires a little different welder/metals. Chromoly is considerably lighter, and worth the extra $$$ in my opinion. Remember you are WELDING this to your car. Don't kick yourself in the butt later for not spending the extra couple hundred now.
I think there is much more than 5lbs difference in a chromoly to a mild steel 6pt though. Maybe Stenod or Wolfe can jump in and give us the weight difference.
Was the 2000 for a cage custom cut/bent/installed, or just to install a pre cut and jog-notched one?
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01-23-2007, 05:45 PM
#9
exstreme in north haven CT is doing mine, 1100 with swingouts, fabbed to the car. 6 pt, rear bars go to the t top area, but t tops will still fit, and can be added on to to convert into a 10 pt... something I will probably do some day.
I shopped around, and I found prices between 950 and 1900, if you can believe that.
Talk to some local racers, see who they use for that type of work, you may learn of a shop in your area that does this sprt of thign that you didn't even know about.
I shopped around, and I found prices between 950 and 1900, if you can believe that.
Talk to some local racers, see who they use for that type of work, you may learn of a shop in your area that does this sprt of thign that you didn't even know about.
01-24-2007, 04:37 AM
#12
Originally Posted by skipperbisket
10pt with custom pieces, and through the floor SFCs builts and installed by Wolfe $1400...
I assume you know someone there/got that at a promotional rate somehow.... No WAY is anyone in the northeast gonna do that much work for that kind of $, hell that is about unheard of anywhere for that matter. Thru the floor frame connectors are a big job, and a 10 pt, is no small task either if it's bent to the car.
01-24-2007, 04:05 PM
#13
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I assume you know someone there/got that at a promotional rate somehow.... No WAY is anyone in the northeast gonna do that much work for that kind of $, hell that is about unheard of anywhere for that matter. Thru the floor frame connectors are a big job, and a 10 pt, is no small task either if it's bent to the car.
01-24-2007, 04:14 PM
#14
yeah... that is so cheap that if I were less then 1000 miles away, I'd have my junk trailered there and have them do it, and have it trailered back, and it would still cose me less then it would here in CT.
That's gotta be on a sponsorship, or he knows someone/they owed him a favor, or something, no way that's standard pricing.
That's gotta be on a sponsorship, or he knows someone/they owed him a favor, or something, no way that's standard pricing.
01-25-2007, 04:33 AM
#20
I was actually gonna skip the swingouts, and just go with a solid bar, but everyone talked me into the swignouts. The one thign the chsssis guy warned me about , was with swingouts and a 6 pt you can NEVER put your weight on the swingout bar when getting in and out of the car, or you will rip the plate/floorboard off the front, think if it like a 5 foot long pry bar on the floorboard, with all your weight on it.... not good.
I will probably leave my door bars out except when I go to the track just so I don't do it. With a 10 pt, it's not a big deal because you have the front of the cage on the floor plate too, so it's alot more solid.
I will probably leave my door bars out except when I go to the track just so I don't do it. With a 10 pt, it's not a big deal because you have the front of the cage on the floor plate too, so it's alot more solid.