FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

I have a UMI tunnel mounted torque arm here, but I dont think I need it yet.

I'm having NO traction issues and easily go 1.5 60s on juice.

Supposedly there is better weight transfer with the arm, but for the added weight over stock I dont think there is a point to even put it on yet.

Any opinions?

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

put it on and test it out!

skipperbisket

iTrader: (4)

i agree with SS, only way to find out is to throw it on there. at the power level and et you're at i wouldn't think it would be a huge help but it can't hurt anything.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

throw it on and see if you like it.

FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

Well the next time I get to the track I expect 11s out of it...but having as light a car as possible is going to be a key factor (even though itss a pig right now at around 3330 raceweight with the bottle full), and that torque arm is pretty damn heavy.

Can anyone tell me if there IS any noticeable advantage on a car, usually, other than increased traction?

I'm just not seeing the need for it right now and would just as soon sell it and spend the money elsewhere on a tubular k or something along those lines.

I guess if I'm bored some day I might throw it on and check it out....we'll see.

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

i'm pretty sure it will make you car a little quicker. it weighs a little more but 20lbs. max, which is NOT enough to make or break you at the track.

put it on, throw the stock piece of **** away, check the pinion angle, and let her rip!

Finite1

iTrader: (3)

yeah the stock piece is JUNK.


I was gonna start a thread, but what is the average track gain by adding a torque arm?

I'm really impressed with mine.

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

not really sure on track times but usually the more hp you have then the more difference it makes!

i can't only do one mod at a time & track test it. i get carried away with it

FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the stock one IS pretty terrible...I'm just waiting for it to crack or bend, but my cars getting awesome traction on the current setup. Last sunday at the track it lifted the front left wheel and almost got the passenger side up with no wheel hop or spin.

I know 20 pounds wont break the results, but it all adds up

If I get some free time I'll throw it on this weekend and get back out to the track to see if I get any better results out of it.

Finite1

iTrader: (3)

I dont want to sound overzelous. but I'm thinking I easily trimmed off .2-.4ish ET 1/4 by just adding the TA to my slow setup. is this possible?

the difference is major for me in all around driving, especially turns and overall traction.

sorry to bust ya thread.

FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

You're not busting my thread Youre giving your opinions on the arm which is exactly what I wanted

Were you having problems with hop or spin before the arm?

Matt D

iTrader: (49)

Is it Mild Steel or Chrome Moly? I put on UMI's chrome moly torque arm and it was lighter than stock.

kp

iTrader: (34)

IF the stock one breaks/bends you will most likely break the driveshaft too and need a tow home. Pretty silly not to swap it out if you have it IMO.

FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

It's the mild steel version.
UMI told me even the chromoly version would be considerably heavier than stock.

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

I think you're getting a little to caught up in the weight.

The stock piece is no lightweight, and if you plan on remaining track legal you're going to have to start adding parts for safety that are going to add weight.

The question in my mind is how much are you losing by NOT adding a stronger torque arm? Maybe you should try and test it out

FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

I understand safety equipment is going to need to be added that will increase the weight, and I'm fine with that.

I just don't see the advantage of a torque arm other than added traction...which I do not need.

If there are actual advantages I'd love to hear em, nothing would make me happier than to be convinced that I should put this thing on

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

I'm with you on this one. Ditch the heavy one. If you can hook with the stock one which is pretty damn light stick with it. When you need something stonger and more adjustable go with a lightweight, strong cromoly piece.

Carbed4thGen

iTrader: (2)

Ok your main concern here is weight and the fact that you may/may not need the torque arm for traction. You are getting a 1.5 currently but what is stopping you from going maybe a 1.4. 60 ft isnt always if your dead hooking or not. Either way the torque arm may put u in a better position to accelerate quicker. Ex. put the pinion at a better angle to better allow more power to be transfered to the wheels. And on another note why wait for something to break that is definately going to break other things during its unfortunate death...

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

look at it like this. are you still running stock controll arms? why? the stock ones are lighter!

are you running sub-frame connectors? why? thats another 20lbs!

do you have a tubular K-member? you should, its lighter then stock & a lot more room to work.




if you just REFUSE to use the one you have, buy an adjustable CM trans mount t/a. it will weigh close to stock.

FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the opinions.

If I put it on I'll be sure to post up the results.