for drag racing is it better to have a shorter or longer torque arm? why?
#4
I think it depends on the car. The shorter arm will work well and transfer weight well but I think suspension set up becomes more critical with the shorter arm. The longer arm will transfer weight better and set up is less critical to get the weight transfer you want BUT a car with alot of power will put it on the bumper faster with the longer arm over the shorter one.
I prefer the longer arm but I'm not making tons of power. IMO, if I were building an N/A car I'd use the longer arm but once you go with a power adder I'd go with the shorter one and a tweaked suspension.
I'm no expert-just my opinion.
I prefer the longer arm but I'm not making tons of power. IMO, if I were building an N/A car I'd use the longer arm but once you go with a power adder I'd go with the shorter one and a tweaked suspension.
I'm no expert-just my opinion.
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It all just depends. The shorter the Torque Arm the harder the car is going to want to hit the tires. If you have a 700HP LS1 you can probably get away with a shorter torque arm then a car with 2,400 HP would use.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Ben R
It all just depends. The shorter the Torque Arm the harder the car is going to want to hit the tires. If you have a 700HP LS1 you can probably get away with a shorter torque arm then a car with 2,400 HP would use.
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Originally Posted by tektrans
I think it depends on the car. The shorter arm will work well and transfer weight well but I think suspension set up becomes more critical with the shorter arm. The longer arm will transfer weight better and set up is less critical to get the weight transfer you want BUT a car with alot of power will put it on the bumper faster with the longer arm over the shorter one.
I prefer the longer arm but I'm not making tons of power. IMO, if I were building an N/A car I'd use the longer arm but once you go with a power adder I'd go with the shorter one and a tweaked suspension.
I'm no expert-just my opinion.
I prefer the longer arm but I'm not making tons of power. IMO, if I were building an N/A car I'd use the longer arm but once you go with a power adder I'd go with the shorter one and a tweaked suspension.
I'm no expert-just my opinion.
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Originally Posted by Ben R
It all just depends. The shorter the Torque Arm the harder the car is going to want to hit the tires. If you have a 700HP LS1 you can probably get away with a shorter torque arm then a car with 2,400 HP would use.
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Originally Posted by 9sec93
good way to explain it. the shorter torque arm will give the car anti-squat, hitting the tires harder. the longer torque arm will cause the car to squat more in the rear (also less likely to wheelie). you have to find the happy medium. from what i understand from reading dave morgans book, you want as much anti-suat as you can get with the car still hooking. if it doesnt hook, you want to move the instant center forward until it does. someone please correct me if i'm wrong.
If your car isn't hooking up the fix isn't always to try to make it hit the tires harder. On a high horsepower car that wants to do nothing but get on the wheelie bars and then unload the tires you have to put some power into it at the hit (To turn the tire over a little more on the starting line to keep the car from going straight to the wheelie bars). You can also raise the wheelie bars a little bit to keep from shaking the tires.
Kevin Slaby, the owner of Baseline Suspension, has a great article on it (www.baselinesuspension.com)
-Ben R
#13
Originally Posted by Mike TexaSS
Moving the Instant Center point forward is going to make the car hit the tires softer (Think same as using a longer torque-arm). Also, the lower you mount the torque-arm (Adjustable front mounting bracket) the softer the car is going to want to hit the tires.
If your car isn't hooking up the fix isn't always to try to make it hit the tires harder. On a high horsepower car that wants to do nothing but get on the wheelie bars and then unload the tires you have to put some power into it at the hit (To turn the tire over a little more on the starting line to keep the car from going straight to the wheelie bars). You can also raise the wheelie bars a little bit to keep from shaking the tires.
Kevin Slaby, the owner of Baseline Suspension, has a great article on it (www.baselinesuspension.com)
-Ben R
If your car isn't hooking up the fix isn't always to try to make it hit the tires harder. On a high horsepower car that wants to do nothing but get on the wheelie bars and then unload the tires you have to put some power into it at the hit (To turn the tire over a little more on the starting line to keep the car from going straight to the wheelie bars). You can also raise the wheelie bars a little bit to keep from shaking the tires.
Kevin Slaby, the owner of Baseline Suspension, has a great article on it (www.baselinesuspension.com)
-Ben R
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Originally Posted by Mike TexaSS
Moving the Instant Center point forward is going to make the car hit the tires softer (Think same as using a longer torque-arm). Also, the lower you mount the torque-arm (Adjustable front mounting bracket) the softer the car is going to want to hit the tires.
-Ben R
-Ben R
If you were to RAISE the front adjustable mount of the torque arm, and kept the LCA's at the same angle, you would be RAISING the instant center, but wouldn't you be pushing that point forward where they intersect then? so it's like a catch 22
and just for information sake, this is a topic i had saved in the past..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/archive/i.../t-396309.html
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Originally Posted by Slow Z28
I just have to ask so I can make sure.
If you were to RAISE the front adjustable mount of the torque arm, and kept the LCA's at the same angle, you would be RAISING the instant center, but wouldn't you be pushing that point forward where they intersect then? so it's like a catch 22
and just for information sake, this is a topic i had saved in the past..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/archive/i.../t-396309.html
If you were to RAISE the front adjustable mount of the torque arm, and kept the LCA's at the same angle, you would be RAISING the instant center, but wouldn't you be pushing that point forward where they intersect then? so it's like a catch 22
and just for information sake, this is a topic i had saved in the past..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/archive/i.../t-396309.html
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Originally Posted by Slow Z28
I just have to ask so I can make sure.
If you were to RAISE the front adjustable mount of the torque arm, and kept the LCA's at the same angle, you would be RAISING the instant center, but wouldn't you be pushing that point forward where they intersect then? so it's like a catch 22
and just for information sake, this is a topic i had saved in the past..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/archive/i.../t-396309.html
If you were to RAISE the front adjustable mount of the torque arm, and kept the LCA's at the same angle, you would be RAISING the instant center, but wouldn't you be pushing that point forward where they intersect then? so it's like a catch 22
and just for information sake, this is a topic i had saved in the past..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/archive/i.../t-396309.html
There are some IC Calculators you can download off the net you could use if you wanted to find out for sure.
-Ben R
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Originally Posted by V6 Bird
The shorter arm will put the car on the bumper faster. Ask Madman
Mike you are very good at what you do. Your exhausts and fab work is primo stuff. What I dont understand is why you go out of your way to bash and make comments just to start ****. You know nothing about my t/a. You make assumptions on what you read on the internet. To set the record straight there have been VERY few cars that have been on the bumper with my arm. The cars that have drug the bumper have been competitors pieces. If you set my arm correctly the car will hook and go BUT as everyone knows the only way to win is lean on it. So at times the bumper is there.
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
Mike you are very good at what you do. Your exhausts and fab work is primo stuff. What I dont understand is why you go out of your way to bash and make comments just to start ****. You know nothing about my t/a. You make assumptions on what you read on the internet. To set the record straight there have been VERY few cars that have been on the bumper with my arm. The cars that have drug the bumper have been competitors pieces. If you set my arm correctly the car will hook and go BUT as everyone knows the only way to win is lean on it. So at times the bumper is there.
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Originally Posted by Luis Castellanos
i thought it was a compliment.. huh...
No...wasn't taken as a compliment. Goal for building good suspension setup is to transfer weight and power to the tires and to the ground..............not to the rear bumper. Riding the rear bumper.....might as well be spinning the tires of the line