Grinding Calipers 101
07-07-2007, 03:21 PM
#1
Grinding Calipers 101 Are you thinking about running some Weld rims? BE PREPARED TO GRIND!!
You can run skinnies up front without having to grind anything as long as you run a big enough spacer. So, what size spacer is needed? People run different sizes so I wouldn't be able to say you HAVE to run (x) size. However, the common sizes are 5/16,7/16, 1/2" spacers. Personally, I run the 1/2" spacers. A lot of people run the Mr Gaskets spacer, which is ok and they're cheap. I went with a more durable spacers that fits great.
Edit: A lot of people have asked where I get these spacers from. Here's a link: http://www.racecareng.com/RCE1/item_...rt_no=ALL44121 *Part Number: ALL44121*
Not the best picture since I have paint all over the rotor
(I'll take a better picture later when I get my car back.)
Now for the fun part, the rear calipers.
1) Make sure that you wear SAFETY GOGGLES. Sunglasses will NOT work. I had about 20 slivers of metal stuck to my contacts when I got done and I was wearing a set of sunglasses that I figured would be adequate.
2) Get a GOOD grinder. If you don't own one, then borrow one from a friend. I started with a cheap grinder and it took TWICE as long. Trust me, this is a very important step.
3) Set aside the appropriate amount of time to do the job correctly. Don't think you're going to whip it out in an hour and be ready to hit the strip.
4) Become familiar with the phrase, "KEEP GRINDING". When you think that you're done.....KEEP GRINDING! Put the rim on, check for clearance, take the rim off....... starts to become old fairly quickly.
5) Before you think you're done make sure to tighten the rim on and see if it will spin. I put the rim on, pushed hard, spun the rim and thought I was all set. Tightened the lug nuts on, tried to spin....no dice. Wouldn't even budge. Also, make sure that both wheels are off the ground when trying to spin the rim. My jack slowly creeped down on me once putting the other tire on the ground...couldn't figure out why the clearance got worse and I could no longer spin the rim.
6) Make sure that you have some way to mark the calipers for rubbing. In my case it was easy because I have painted calipers. Grind, paint, check to see where it's rubbing. If you're not going to paint your calipers (which would be odd since you just were grinding on them) you can use masking tape to mark the calipers.
Here's how they start: (Notice how deep the grooves are...I told you there was going to be a lot of grinding)
You're not even close yet....refer back to step 4.
Notice the little bit of red where the deep groove use to be? You guessed it, still not there yet, KEEP GRINDING!!
Don't worry, you'll eventually get there
A couple more pictures for you:
This is just a picture of the amount of metal shavings from one caliper that I was easily able to sweep up.
I know that I was looking for something like this when I was getting ready to grind my calipers. I hope that it helps. If anyone has anything to add, please feel free to do so and post any pictures that you have.
You can run skinnies up front without having to grind anything as long as you run a big enough spacer. So, what size spacer is needed? People run different sizes so I wouldn't be able to say you HAVE to run (x) size. However, the common sizes are 5/16,7/16, 1/2" spacers. Personally, I run the 1/2" spacers. A lot of people run the Mr Gaskets spacer, which is ok and they're cheap. I went with a more durable spacers that fits great.
Edit: A lot of people have asked where I get these spacers from. Here's a link: http://www.racecareng.com/RCE1/item_...rt_no=ALL44121 *Part Number: ALL44121*
Not the best picture since I have paint all over the rotor
(I'll take a better picture later when I get my car back.)Now for the fun part, the rear calipers.
1) Make sure that you wear SAFETY GOGGLES. Sunglasses will NOT work. I had about 20 slivers of metal stuck to my contacts when I got done and I was wearing a set of sunglasses that I figured would be adequate.
2) Get a GOOD grinder. If you don't own one, then borrow one from a friend. I started with a cheap grinder and it took TWICE as long. Trust me, this is a very important step.
3) Set aside the appropriate amount of time to do the job correctly. Don't think you're going to whip it out in an hour and be ready to hit the strip.
4) Become familiar with the phrase, "KEEP GRINDING". When you think that you're done.....KEEP GRINDING! Put the rim on, check for clearance, take the rim off....... starts to become old fairly quickly.
5) Before you think you're done make sure to tighten the rim on and see if it will spin. I put the rim on, pushed hard, spun the rim and thought I was all set. Tightened the lug nuts on, tried to spin....no dice. Wouldn't even budge. Also, make sure that both wheels are off the ground when trying to spin the rim. My jack slowly creeped down on me once putting the other tire on the ground...couldn't figure out why the clearance got worse and I could no longer spin the rim.
6) Make sure that you have some way to mark the calipers for rubbing. In my case it was easy because I have painted calipers. Grind, paint, check to see where it's rubbing. If you're not going to paint your calipers (which would be odd since you just were grinding on them) you can use masking tape to mark the calipers.
Here's how they start: (Notice how deep the grooves are...I told you there was going to be a lot of grinding)
You're not even close yet....refer back to step 4.
Notice the little bit of red where the deep groove use to be? You guessed it, still not there yet, KEEP GRINDING!!
Don't worry, you'll eventually get there
A couple more pictures for you:
This is just a picture of the amount of metal shavings from one caliper that I was easily able to sweep up.
I know that I was looking for something like this when I was getting ready to grind my calipers. I hope that it helps. If anyone has anything to add, please feel free to do so and post any pictures that you have.
Last edited by 01_ram-air; 06-22-2010 at 11:51 PM.
07-07-2007, 03:35 PM
#2
Also, I would recommend that you switch to a longer wheel stud:
I went with ARP
More then likely, you're going to have to remove the bump stops also.
All of the grinding and banging in the above picture was unnecessary with a 275/50/15 tire on a 10" rim
I went with ARP
More then likely, you're going to have to remove the bump stops also.
All of the grinding and banging in the above picture was unnecessary with a 275/50/15 tire on a 10" rim
07-07-2007, 04:28 PM
#3
I'm glad I have Convo Pros. 
I had prostars on my '00 and hated grinding them. I actually had a caliper break in two places which caused me to crash the car and total it. It was due to all of the drag racing I did and lack of metal. I would go to drag brakes before I would have to grind again.
I had prostars on my '00 and hated grinding them. I actually had a caliper break in two places which caused me to crash the car and total it. It was due to all of the drag racing I did and lack of metal. I would go to drag brakes before I would have to grind again.
07-07-2007, 06:08 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by Matt D
I actually had a caliper break in two places which caused me to crash the car and total it. It was due to all of the drag racing I did and lack of metal.
I just had to take of maybe 1/5 inch. Doesn't seem like it would break. It's not that thin!
07-08-2007, 10:08 AM
#6
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Its fine for track cars and cars that never see anything but nice summer days but on a True daily driver (rain, sleet, snow hail, everything) no way I'd be on calipers grinded like that. With less material the calipers will heat up more... then splash some water on them from a puddle which cools the calipers down violently quick and stresses the material. After that happens enough I can easily see something going wrong.
I'l be getting convo pros or Bogarts for the rear of my car when I go 15's. I want little to no grinding because I car still sees the elements.
I'l be getting convo pros or Bogarts for the rear of my car when I go 15's. I want little to no grinding because I car still sees the elements.
07-08-2007, 01:10 PM
#7
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01_ramair:
That was an excellent write up! I'm sure a lot of guys will appreciate it. I ran ground calipers for a long time with no issues.
I think this topic deserves a sticky! With a WARNING maybe??
That was an excellent write up! I'm sure a lot of guys will appreciate it. I ran ground calipers for a long time with no issues.
I think this topic deserves a sticky! With a WARNING maybe??
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07-08-2007, 09:41 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Jantzer98SS
01_ramair:
That was an excellent write up! I'm sure a lot of guys will appreciate it. I ran ground calipers for a long time with no issues.
I think this topic deserves a sticky! With a WARNING maybe??
That was an excellent write up! I'm sure a lot of guys will appreciate it. I ran ground calipers for a long time with no issues.
I think this topic deserves a sticky! With a WARNING maybe??
If it helps at least one person then it was worth the time I spent taking pictures and writing it all up.
07-08-2007, 09:47 PM
#11
Originally Posted by STOCK1090
Buy the right offset wheels. Don't blame the wheels.
You did bring up a good point that I left out and that was backspacing...
15x8 rim you want to run a 5.5" backspacing
15x10 rim you want to run a 7.5" backspacing
15x3.5 rim you want to run a 1.75" backspacing
If you get a narrowed rearend then you have different options for backspacing.
07-13-2007, 10:43 AM
#13
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I just finished grinding my calipers about a month ago. What a PITA. Test fitting the rims so many times was the worst part of the whole thing. Put them on..takem off over and over. Thank God that day is over.
07-13-2007, 11:32 AM
#14
With the amount of work that takes and with the decreased strenth of the caliper.... I seriously question at what point is it just sparter to buy drag brakes, or get bogarts so the grinding isn't nessassary
(I personally went the route of buying bogarts, but will also be doing drag brakes over the winter)
(I personally went the route of buying bogarts, but will also be doing drag brakes over the winter)
07-13-2007, 06:31 PM
#15
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
With the amount of work that takes and with the decreased strenth of the caliper.... I seriously question at what point is it just sparter to buy drag brakes, or get bogarts so the grinding isn't nessassary
(I personally went the route of buying bogarts, but will also be doing drag brakes over the winter)
(I personally went the route of buying bogarts, but will also be doing drag brakes over the winter)
07-13-2007, 07:01 PM
#16
Originally Posted by 01_ram-air
For most of us it just comes down to money. Grinding calipers is way cheaper then buying new brakes.
I personally know of 3 F-Bodies with the calipers ground and NONE of them has ever experienced any problems what so ever.
07-13-2007, 09:28 PM
#17
Originally Posted by 01_ram-air
For most of us it just comes down to money. Grinding calipers is way cheaper then buying new brakes.
I sorta understand... I mean the rear drag brakes are not cheap at about 500 for strange ones, and neither are the bogarts at whatever they are going or a pair these days.... but after seeign a caliper or 2 crack, it just worries me, and with the amount of work it took to get them ground down enough, at some point I ask if all the labor is worth the $ saved.
07-13-2007, 10:39 PM
#18
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I sorta understand... I mean the rear drag brakes are not cheap at about 500 for strange ones, and neither are the bogarts at whatever they are going or a pair these days.... but after seeign a caliper or 2 crack, it just worries me, and with the amount of work it took to get them ground down enough, at some point I ask if all the labor is worth the $ saved.
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