BadBoo79

I am placing an order with Wolfe to get their tubs, offset LCA's, adjustable spring mounts, and one of their rear bulkheads.

I would like to go with a 29x10.5W on a 12" wheel once the Wolfe parts are installed and the rear end is narrowed; is there anything I need to be aware of before ordering?

chrismorales75

Have you seen the post on mini tubbing? I actually went with a full tub because I didn't like how little clearance I had to lower the car with that tall of a tire.

I think the kit will let you put a mini tub 16" from the fender to the tub, but you won't have that much clearance, you'd hit the Lower control arms offset or not way before even getting close to the 16" of the tub.

I think my offset lower control arm was actually 14.25-14.5" from the fender which jacks you 1.5" of space right there.

I ended up relocating my lower control arm between the frame and the stock bracket which gave me an additional 2" of clearance.

When you mini tub it and cut out 16" from the fender to frame it is about 49 pounds of metal, thats what I cut out when I initially went with a 16" mini tub. You'll end up putting about 15 pounds back in the car so you'll save about 33 pounds of weight.

Another thing is when you go with a tall tire like that and lower the car you won't have much shock travel.

I am going to run the 315 60 15 on a 15x12 with 4" back space, I don't have my exact measurements but I expect to narrow my rear end between 5.5-6.5" per side.

One thing you don't want to do is weld in any spring mounts until you have your rear end in the car and the wheel base is set and your pinion angle is set and everything is at ride hight.

A few people I know put in the adjustable spring mounts weld them in then don't like how the spring sits all crooked once everything is back on the car.

I would suggest using 4 self tapping screws to hold it in place and mock it up until you have everything where it looks lined up before final welding it.

I don't know how far you want the tire to tuck in, but 2 things I ran into stopping you from tucking the tire will be the lower control arms and panhard bracket on the frame.

Here is a post read through and you can see I changed my mind along the way when I was mini tubbing it. I also have photos so you can get an idea of whats involved in the process, if you have any questions you can PM me or leave questions on the mini tubbing post i made.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/804528-mini-tubbing.html

BadBoo79

I read the post, nice work! I was looking to go with the Wolfe setup so that everything worked together with minimal customization.

It makes sense with what you are saying with the LCA's & the Panhard mount. Maybe I should just go with the 10" wheel? Also, that is a very good point about the spring mounts; I will not finish weld anything until everything is setup.

Also, it is best to go with the spring adjuster on the rearend housing so the ride height can be adjusted with the tires on, correct?

chrismorales75

I think the adjuster on the rear end housing is easier to work with, but once you set it is not something you really adjust often either way.

If you don't want to relocate things and want to be able to tuck the tire a little more I would run a 10" rim to gain a little more clearance.

As far as a package it may come from a manufacturer but trust me there is a lot of fabbing regardless if all the pieces come in one box or not.

Biggest thing is making lines on the floor and getting everything straight, once you measure everything out cutting it out is easy.

Brady

iTrader: (3)

You can't run a 12" wide wheel w/out relocating the LCA's. Period. (Unless you want the wheels to hang out the fender wells chollo style.)

BadBoo79

More good info to know! A 10" wheel with a 4" backspace (and narrowed rear of course) should fit a decent tire though with the Wolfe offset LCA's & small springs, right?

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

a 10 inch wheel will help with fitment issues a lot. Cramming a 12 inch wheel under there takes a lot more work. I'm also guessing you read the mini tubbing thread posted above. You could run some of the lower adjustable mounts JasonWW posted up.

One thing to be careful about that I should have easily noticed is that if you let the mini tubs sit for a while they will gather surface rust. Keep them oil or install them quickly.

They'll fit without relocating the LCAs. I was talking to CAMN HAWK a while ago about this and he has the exact same setup.

Pictures:

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Usually people run the rear narrowed 3 inches per side and a 15x10 with a 5 inch backspacing.

chrismorales75

There are a lot of options for narrowing rears which they will do in 1/8" increments, like I would recommend to anyone, buy the rims and tires, put them under the car then set the wheels up so the fit perfect, then measure for the rear end.

A lot of people might go 15x10 with 5" back space but you can also narrow more and run a deeper dish which I think looks better but that is just my opinion.

If you want your car to have a 15x10 with 4" back space and sit in the same as the other guys you'd just narrow it 1" more per side. So you'd order yours 4" narrowed per side.

Personally like I said buy the rims and tires, have them mounted, set the car at ride hight, set the wheel base, center the tire or tuck it how you want then measure the distance between to get exactly the right length rear end.

Also make sure you know how far the lower control arm will be from the fender, put the lower control arms on the stock rear end, mark on the ground exactly where the LCA are with chalk or a line on the ground, then remove the rear end and place the new rims/tires under the car and set them up how you like leaving enough room for clearance from the LCA then measure between the rims and you have the perfect rear end width.

Besides the rear ends only take two days to make so it isn't like you'll have to sit forever to get it if you order your rims and tires first.

Also if you run a 10" rim I would run a true 29x10.5 not w or 295 60 15 drag radial.