Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Problem:
- Factory 4 link mustang suspension has no adjustment
- Factory designed with alot of anti squat 135%+
- Short instant center

The suspension on the mustangs is pretty simple. Its a 4 link system, the two bottom bars run front to back and locate the rear end/tires. The upper bars run @ a 45 degree angle and control pinion angle and the centering of the rear end between the fenders.

Finding adjustability....
Lower control arms:
The lower bars are pretty simple. My moser rear end has a boxed in bracket for the lower mount with room to drill 1 possibly 2 holes below the factory hole and 3-4 above. I think I only need 1 below the factory mount to get the lower one close to where it needs to be.

Upper control arms:
The upper arms are alittle different story. The front of the upper control arm mount to the chassis using a ~3/8" Bolt with a 1/2" rod end and 3/8" aluminum spacers/reducers. I want to be able to adjust the upper control arm mount on the rear end like the bottom control arm. The rear side of the upper control arm has a horseshoe style mount and a nice sperical bushing that bolts ontop of the rear end.

I'm wondering can I take a piece of 1/4" steel and make a bracket to replace the factory piece but mount it to the front of the 9" axle. The bracket would be almost a J bracket with the adjustment holes on the face of the rear end. I would have to make custom control arms for the top and use 1/2" rod ends on both sides.

Pic of the lower mount before the additional holes:


Upper mounts:


I'd make a bracket similar to this, it would weld onto the front of the round portion of the rear end, using 1/2" or so rod ends on both sides.


End result would be a stock suspension with plenty of adjustability.
Thanks for taking a look!

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

Wild rides makes a kit to do what you want to the uppers. http://www.wildridesracecars.com/newstuff.html

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the link, I'll call them to see about availability. Does the triangulated 4 link have the same type of adjustability as the standard 4 link in terms of anti squat and instant center?

chrismorales75

Yes as long as you can change the intersection points you can adjust all of that.

Phil since you have an adjustable lower control arm why don't you weld up the factory hole, weld a piece of 1/4" on the outside of the factory bracket and make a double adjustable rear bracket on the lowers, since the bracket is so much thicker this way you can really close the bolt hole centers a lot closer, I'll attach a photo of a 4 link style with the D/A hole locations to give you an idea, it would double the adjustment holes you have and also make each one 2x as fine of an adjustment since you are literally only moving the position of the bar up or down like 3/8" at a time which can really dial in the chassis.

This is how I am doing the lowers on the rear of my camaro.

I am also making a D/A plate so I have twice the holes on the front of the torque arm as well.

with the brackets like this being thicker a lot of the holes are only 1/8- 3/16" apart

I would do the wild rides front box and also do the upper rears like you were talking about, you'll have tons of adjustability.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Interesting....

chrismorales75

Hey if this is the newer style 4 link stuff they are running on their pro cars why can't we use it on ours =)

I'll have the most dialed in 12 second over-tired camaro out there

promod1955

iTrader: (44)

I wouldn't get to caught up in that double row bracket phil. At that point your just splitting hairs and on a car like your building you wont realy notice it. Thats for the pro stock guys to dial it in perfect for conditions. Bickel does that on his housings and I've never used the second row on his chassis I've tuned. I can raise or lower the ride height a 1/4" and accomplish the same thing with my instant center any way. That close spacing would scare me a little on a car weighing 3000 lbs. as well. most cars using that bracket are about 500lbs lighter.

You can drill another hole above and below in the bracket on the housing. I've never used that wild rides upper box but it looks like a nice piece.

chrismorales75

I would at least have 4 or 5 holes spaced closer together.

In the future you may run a larger tire and end up needing them down the road.