tires unloading?
#1
tires unloading?
i made this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/751848-help-traction.html
about my car not hooking and the tires seems like they skip or chatter....looking over my videos and reading i noticed the front end comes up the front are fully extended then the tire starts to unload and then the front starts to come back down and the car starts to chatter the tires...doe all this in the first 8-10 feet of the run....
ive also noticed that the rear tires wrinkle a bunch, is this normal for m/t d/r? ive had them at 18 but im thinking i need to go back up to like 23 and work down....
also is there any way to get it to not unload the rear tires? (i think tahts what its doing) without getting adjustable shocks
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/751848-help-traction.html
about my car not hooking and the tires seems like they skip or chatter....looking over my videos and reading i noticed the front end comes up the front are fully extended then the tire starts to unload and then the front starts to come back down and the car starts to chatter the tires...doe all this in the first 8-10 feet of the run....
ive also noticed that the rear tires wrinkle a bunch, is this normal for m/t d/r? ive had them at 18 but im thinking i need to go back up to like 23 and work down....
also is there any way to get it to not unload the rear tires? (i think tahts what its doing) without getting adjustable shocks
#2
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Sounds like it's hooking fine, but the front end gets snatched up, then settles quickly which unloads the tires. The shocks might be worn out and not doing much of anything. It depends on how much power your making as to what you can easily get by with. Ideally you'd slow down how fast the front rises and falls...
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i hear the tires chattering. what shocks and torque arm are you running?
there is really no need to buy adjustable shocks for drag racing unless you are big time fast or like spending money on race bling. you can look into a set of lakewood 50/50's that fit thirdgens and bolt them right on if you think the shocks are the problem. from summit or jegs they are around $45 a piece
i have a feeling the final solution would be to jsut get a good torque arm. it will help the car ride better and improve handling in all on and off track conditions.
there is really no need to buy adjustable shocks for drag racing unless you are big time fast or like spending money on race bling. you can look into a set of lakewood 50/50's that fit thirdgens and bolt them right on if you think the shocks are the problem. from summit or jegs they are around $45 a piece
i have a feeling the final solution would be to jsut get a good torque arm. it will help the car ride better and improve handling in all on and off track conditions.
#5
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The front end lifts on the initial hit and comes down some, I just think the car doesn't make enough power to hold the front end up for a long period of time, but shocks should help.
You can hear the tires losing traction.
Unloading the tire could be from a few things, it could be from the front coming back down too quick and unloading the tire because the front compression is too soft or the tires started to spin first resulting in the front end dropping back down.
The shocks could be adjusted wrong, you could have the wrong tire pressure, wrong instant center, the list of possibilities could go on and on.
Can you list your parts on the chassis so we know what you have and how it is adjusted?
You can hear the tires losing traction.
Unloading the tire could be from a few things, it could be from the front coming back down too quick and unloading the tire because the front compression is too soft or the tires started to spin first resulting in the front end dropping back down.
The shocks could be adjusted wrong, you could have the wrong tire pressure, wrong instant center, the list of possibilities could go on and on.
Can you list your parts on the chassis so we know what you have and how it is adjusted?
#6
ive got chromoly adj lca
chromoly adjustable tq arm pinion is at -2
stock springs and shocks, and phb(ill have an adjustable phb soon)
car is stock with cut springs on all 4 corners lowered about an even inch
stock rear swaybar, no front swaybar
tire pressure is 18 psi warm inbetween runs
i think i might need more pressure...thats goana be something i definately try...
cars about 3300 raceweight
it could be the tires losing traction and the front comming down...its a bunch easier to see with the skinnies up front, front end gets full travel then the sidewalls of the front tires start to unload and it slowly stops then drops about 3 inches quickly at the same time the tires spin....
i used to have stock tq arm and i hit the spray about 5 feet out with 3200 stall 3.73 and it could go 1.50 60' all the time...
now i swapped to 3.42 and a 3600 stall and im flashing the verter on the 125 shot and it wont hook
here i left on a 75 shot and it chattered maybe 2 times and was fine
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMGP1687.flv
heres i left on 125 shot and it wouldent stop chattering for about 15 feet then an axle broke
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMGP1688.flv
this vid you can see the front come down right before the axle breaks and motor revs...
chromoly adjustable tq arm pinion is at -2
stock springs and shocks, and phb(ill have an adjustable phb soon)
car is stock with cut springs on all 4 corners lowered about an even inch
stock rear swaybar, no front swaybar
tire pressure is 18 psi warm inbetween runs
i think i might need more pressure...thats goana be something i definately try...
cars about 3300 raceweight
it could be the tires losing traction and the front comming down...its a bunch easier to see with the skinnies up front, front end gets full travel then the sidewalls of the front tires start to unload and it slowly stops then drops about 3 inches quickly at the same time the tires spin....
i used to have stock tq arm and i hit the spray about 5 feet out with 3200 stall 3.73 and it could go 1.50 60' all the time...
now i swapped to 3.42 and a 3600 stall and im flashing the verter on the 125 shot and it wont hook
here i left on a 75 shot and it chattered maybe 2 times and was fine
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMGP1687.flv
heres i left on 125 shot and it wouldent stop chattering for about 15 feet then an axle broke
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMGP1688.flv
this vid you can see the front come down right before the axle breaks and motor revs...
#7
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Sounds good for your power level, tires seem to be doing ok. I'd try some comp engineering rear shocks. Lots of people use these so dont be fooled by them being so cheap! Its almost like a trick. But they work!
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i agree, LCA relo's if you don't have them would be a good call. once you get the panhard on there, take some time to really dial the rear in square and centered. it is shocking how far off they can be and still look perfectly fine.
is your torque arm teh adjustable that still uses the trans mount or one of the shorter ones that goes to the tunnel brace?
is your torque arm teh adjustable that still uses the trans mount or one of the shorter ones that goes to the tunnel brace?
#10
o0o yes i have bmr relo on the lowest setting....
weird...car make 360 on motor and 495 on the 125 shot....prolly makes about 550 ft pounds at 3600
tq arms a tunnel brace...
i know the phb is needed the rears out about 1/4 inch one way...but im not sure if thats whats doing it or not...after that it will be a swaybar next....but id really like to find my culprit...once i get a phb on it next will be tire pressure hopefully i dont break an axle trying to find out if that fixes it
weird...car make 360 on motor and 495 on the 125 shot....prolly makes about 550 ft pounds at 3600
tq arms a tunnel brace...
i know the phb is needed the rears out about 1/4 inch one way...but im not sure if thats whats doing it or not...after that it will be a swaybar next....but id really like to find my culprit...once i get a phb on it next will be tire pressure hopefully i dont break an axle trying to find out if that fixes it
#12
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Daniel
After lots of research and talking to shock and chassis guy I went to Double adjustable shocks on the Front of the car. This lets the front of the car get up and load the rear of the car and then lets it back down slower so it does not unload the back tires.
The Problem has been gone every since
After lots of research and talking to shock and chassis guy I went to Double adjustable shocks on the Front of the car. This lets the front of the car get up and load the rear of the car and then lets it back down slower so it does not unload the back tires.
The Problem has been gone every since
#13
As someone trying to learn. Aren't the tires slightly unloading and chattering, along with the higher load from the bigger shot, a likely reason the axle broke in the 1st place? I would think if the rear had stayed planted until further out that axle would have probably made it another pass. Chattering tires and wheel hop can do some pretty nasty stuff to rear end components from what I've witnessed.
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