Slow LT1

iTrader: (3)

I like this diddly:

www.bmrfabrication.com/misc.HTM

But if I understand correctly, regardless of whether a battery is a dry or well cell, it needs be be housed in a battery box since our cars are hatchbacks?

If so, the BMR bracket won't be legal no matter what. So, which boxes/kits would you folks recommend?


Thanks!

StreetStalkerZ

iTrader: (1)

Summit has some nice boxes for relocation kits and you will need to run a vent tube from the box to the outside of the car (graumet in the rear hatch that exits outside the car). My kit will be done thursday for for now i'll have to wait on the box

Slow LT1

iTrader: (3)

Is this the one you're talking about:

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...p;x=15&y=8

?


Thanks.

StreetStalkerZ

iTrader: (1)

No not that one. They have a aluminum battery box with holes for your ground and hot wire along with a vent tube,or should,but it's in the $90 range

I got my kit from Thunderracing,it's the Taylor relocation kit that comes with everthing except the battery box. I'm going to get one soon or build my own but for now im going to run without it until someone says something to me.

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

I used the Moroso box, it's about $90 I think. Works great!

Jeffrey

EVIL

where do you put a box if you use the rear for t-tops and have a nitrous bottle in the spare tire well?

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

don't forget the cutoff switch, and this must kill power to not only the battery, but your alternator as well. (some switches do not have an alternator post, so check!)

Derek

DERTY

I bought the Summit Racing aluminum battery box, the smaller size. Throw a 4x4 in the bottom of the wheel well and bolt it in place with a lag bolt. Then the box fits perfectly in the wheel well. Throw a couple screws through the side of the box and the inner side of the wheel well. No extra brackets or BS to worry about. It even fits in there with the power antennae bracket untouched. That should take care of that piece.

Next, mount your disconnect switch and run the cables. I ran my ground cable right out the box, through the spare tire well and grounded it to the frame right there using a audio type grounding lug. Then run your power to the disconnect switch. From the disconnect switch run 2 wires, 2 gauge should work fine. One up to the alternator and that wire connects to the battery side of the disconnect switch. Run the other wire up to the fuse box and that wire should be on the disconnect side of the switch.

It's your choice if you want to pig tail the alternator wire over to the starter or run one off the fuse box wire. I chose the fuse box side and just used an audio distribution block. You can buy a bulkhead connector and make a bracket for it as well (Summit carries this style for 10 bucks). Your starter shouldn't matter when it comes to the rules on shutting the power off.

As far as your nitrous bottle goes, move it. Put it up on the rear deck or between the back seats. Otherwise your trying to put 10lbs of **** in a 5lb bag.