Heavy Car, Suspension Check
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Heavy Car, Suspension Check
Hey guys,
I really don't know how much my car weights, but its an 02 WS6, ttops, leather interior (full). 6 point chromoly roll bar, 9"
I suppose those are the major weight items....any idea what she weights?
I'm hoping for high 10's this season. So far the advice I have gotten is for:
Stock Rear Springs
Stock Replacement QA1's
300 or 325lb front springs
F series front shocks (or will R's work?)
So what should I do for the front?
Stock k-member, but slicks and skinnies
I really don't know how much my car weights, but its an 02 WS6, ttops, leather interior (full). 6 point chromoly roll bar, 9"
I suppose those are the major weight items....any idea what she weights?
I'm hoping for high 10's this season. So far the advice I have gotten is for:
Stock Rear Springs
Stock Replacement QA1's
300 or 325lb front springs
F series front shocks (or will R's work?)
So what should I do for the front?
Stock k-member, but slicks and skinnies
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ur prob gonna weight3500-3600 with out driver. just try some v6 springs and qa1's in the rear, and the rest of the rear suspesion. u dont have to do to much to the front yet. unless u have the money. but just try the rear set up. doing the front will take weight off and prob cut a preaty good amount off the 60' slicks and skinnys are good or just run a drag radial also if u want some street time. im figureing out my set up too for this year and starting with the rear. but u should be close to tens there are cars here that are. good luck
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I have sway bars front and rear
Someone told me the R's might be too soft for my heavier car? how much will that help my 60'?
300 or 325lb springs for the front?
Someone told me the R's might be too soft for my heavier car? how much will that help my 60'?
300 or 325lb springs for the front?
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With a lot of street time on the car and not so much track time, The regular QA1 may provide a better ride on the street. Yes it will loose a few .001s on the 60 but it is a balance. You need to pick your balance point. I am not sure I would spend the $$ to replace the rear springs with the intended use of the car. If it gets lighter and sees a lot more track time that would be a wise investment. The rear QA1s are a good place to start on the rear.
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300lb springs worked fine on my street car until I added turbo weight up front. I had to go to 325's to keep from bottoming out. If you're going to add a supercharger or turbo get the 325's. If not 300's will be fine.
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With a lot of street time on the car and not so much track time, The regular QA1 may provide a better ride on the street. Yes it will loose a few .001s on the 60 but it is a balance. You need to pick your balance point. I am not sure I would spend the $$ to replace the rear springs with the intended use of the car. If it gets lighter and sees a lot more track time that would be a wise investment. The rear QA1s are a good place to start on the rear.
Do you then recommend QA1 replacements for front and rear?
How much will I be hurt if I hold off on getting shocks and springs?
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I really don't want to ditch the front Swaybar since its not a total track car, and I really don't want it floating and cornering like a boat
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I would get 12 way single adjustable front and rear QA1 shocks, 300# springs for the front and leave the rear springs alone.
I had my car pulling the wheels 2 feet on launch with the regular QA1 shocks and never hit the K member or any other under car parts. The R or Regular fronts will both work. The regular will offer a little better street ride at the expense of a bit of weight transfer on the launch. It all depends on what you want from the car.
I had my car pulling the wheels 2 feet on launch with the regular QA1 shocks and never hit the K member or any other under car parts. The R or Regular fronts will both work. The regular will offer a little better street ride at the expense of a bit of weight transfer on the launch. It all depends on what you want from the car.
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I would get 12 way single adjustable front and rear QA1 shocks, 300# springs for the front and leave the rear springs alone.
I had my car pulling the wheels 2 feet on launch with the regular QA1 shocks and never hit the K member or any other under car parts. The R or Regular fronts will both work. The regular will offer a little better street ride at the expense of a bit of weight transfer on the launch. It all depends on what you want from the car.
I had my car pulling the wheels 2 feet on launch with the regular QA1 shocks and never hit the K member or any other under car parts. The R or Regular fronts will both work. The regular will offer a little better street ride at the expense of a bit of weight transfer on the launch. It all depends on what you want from the car.
correct?
also - while I have the car on the lift changing this out...should I get adjustable spring seats from Wolfe? Don't know if this would help with the stance and or issues on the track. 28" ET Street for racing, stock tires on the street....
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The adjustable seats are nice and do allow you to alter the stance. However, with a 28" tire for the track you will not be able to drop the rear much if any. If you were to mini tub or make room for a bigger tire to tuck some way, then the wolfe kit would work great. I am running them on my car.
For now I would put the $$ you would spend on that somewhere else. You will see more bang for the buck.
For now I would put the $$ you would spend on that somewhere else. You will see more bang for the buck.
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If you plan to run anything bigger than 28" even if you tuck the tire in to clear the wheel well lip, you really can't lower the car much. You're still limited to the hight of the factory tub.
That's why you see 90% of the cars with taller tires and mini tubs don't tuck much more than the very top of the tire and sit with the front much lower.
Which is why I went with a full tub to gain more clearance above the tire.
If you ever went with a 30" tire it's even worse, has that old school stink bug look.
If you're only looking to run high 10's I would avoid a lot of extra work and parts you don't need.
Personally I would run the car and see how it does before you buy a lot of stuff.
Adjustable shocks and the right springs are a good start, besides that I would run it then see what it does before you buy more stuff.
That's why you see 90% of the cars with taller tires and mini tubs don't tuck much more than the very top of the tire and sit with the front much lower.
Which is why I went with a full tub to gain more clearance above the tire.
If you ever went with a 30" tire it's even worse, has that old school stink bug look.
If you're only looking to run high 10's I would avoid a lot of extra work and parts you don't need.
Personally I would run the car and see how it does before you buy a lot of stuff.
Adjustable shocks and the right springs are a good start, besides that I would run it then see what it does before you buy more stuff.
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Alright guys, lets take some bets
What are the chances I'll lift the front tires on this heavy bitch?
My new bogarts just showed up today, ready for my 28x11.50" MT ET Streets
5000-6000RPM launch with 150shot ontop of my 402rwhp?
What are the chances I'll lift the front tires on this heavy bitch?
My new bogarts just showed up today, ready for my 28x11.50" MT ET Streets
5000-6000RPM launch with 150shot ontop of my 402rwhp?