00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

I went to the track last night, it was cold like low 40s, and i couldn't get **** for 60ft times. 2.3 was my first, 2.3 was my second, and 2.6 was my third. My car trapped 106-108 on those runs. I'm trying to understand why i can't get my 60 foot times lower. I had at the time nearly bald 555rs on my bolt-on 4000 stalled A4. The first run and the second run i didn't brake stall at all, and gave is 3/4 throttle off the line and snapped loose. The 3rd run i babied it off the line and the tires just started hopping a little bit. I have LCAs and LCA brackets.

This night was full of ricers who were driving through the water box, people were doing burnouts in street tires. does this + a cold night really matter that much? should i be doing something different on my end? Just some thoughts because i really wanted to get into the 12s

CHRRRIS

Well, you said you didn't brake stall it the 1st and 2nd runs, guessing because of your tires... third run you babied it.

Get some nice new tires then get back there and give 'em hell. You should be reaching the high 12's with that stall and some nice tires, DRs maybe? >:-)

ads_99ta

that sounds a lot like my last time at a 1/4 mile track. i've got a 3500 stall and couldn't use it because of bald tires that would break loose. i think a nice set of tires would make the difference. you've got the trap speed for at least low 13s, and as CHRRRIS said with some DRs you'll see 12s.

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

yeah i have some BFGs waiting to be put on.... i just wanted one last time with then Nittos

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

Need more info. 40's are going to be very difficult to dial for 60's. Track temps should be 80's-115 or so. Tire temps should be around 200*after the burnout. What suspension are you running. Is the motor modified? I have an 02SSZ28 Convertible. Bone stock I ran 13.56@102. It was 99* and the air density was a paltry 88. These are not good conditions.But, this was Super Chevy weekend in Michigan.To get into the 12's I bought a Vigilante 3800 converter. Put 3.73's in the back and bought Dynatech 1 3/4" headers w/ highflow cats and y-pipe. HP Tuners helped fine tune things from a stock standpoint. I ran 12.70's@108. The air and temps were more drag race friendly. Suspension was the next thing on the list. I bought BMR Extreme rear suspension. Madman is another excellent choice. Then Strange adjustable shocks were next along with 325X15" ET streets. 60' times are now 1.5 consistantly. There is alot more but hopefully this helps.

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

I just have BMR LCAs and BMR Brackets. I had a really hard time not getting the tires to just start hoping. It feel like the tires stuck then just start bouncing and sticking all the way through 1st gear. I personally felt that the car not hooking because people were driving through the water box with street tires and it was so cold. I heard from a gentleman who had a 12.1 Nova that he was having a hard time hooking because he said it felt slippery.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

All soft compound tires will harden up in cold weather; Nitto DR's are no different. So you need to absolutely kill them when doing a burn out. What PSI did you run them? I assume you have the LCA set to the bottom hole on the relocation brackets.

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

I have the Relocation Brackets at the 1st hole at the top, i was told that you want them to be just slightly angled down toward the back of your car. 20 PSI cold on the Nittos. I have a ton of tread wear on the inside of the tire which assume means that they were too high in PSI. I'll get some vids so you can tell me how you think i did on the burnouts.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

My first few times at the track with Nitto's I was cuttin' 2.3's/2.4's. I was backing into the edge of the waterbox, pulling forward a foot, then, rolling into the burnout for about 5-6 seconds. Now, I only back up to about a foot from the waterbox, not the edge. I then roll forward about 6-8 feet. Next, I keep it in first and nail it almost to the rev limiter and hold the brak and burn out at the exact same spot for aboout 8 seconds, then, I let off the brake with my foot STILL into the gas until I feel the tires 'pull down'.

It works for me ... leaves melted rubber globs on the outside of the fenders behind the rear wheels and really kills the tread, but, I launch 1.7x's everytime. Can't launch over 1800-2000 rpm without spinning. My 4th pair of Mickey Thompson Street Drag radials will be here Wednesday, so, I should be cuttin' 1.5x's with about a 3-4 second burnout. Won't be buying anymore Nitto's. With the Nitto's, my best 60' times were with about 19-20 lbs (cold). too low tire pressure with Nitto's and they will cup on you. Every car is different, so, you have to play with the tire pressure. Get behind a slick or big drag radial car and get in their good, dry groove, as well.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Drop the psi to 18 and move the LCA bolt to the very bottom one.

jason02Z

iTrader: (10)

first of all nittos suck and wors in the cold.. u need to do a realy long 3rd gear burn out with out water. and lower then down to 16 they'll go up in psi when warm and u might get 1.80 60' get some M/t street radial

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

i bought some BFG DRs so we will see how those work ill change the LCAs up and see how i do with the BFGs. im getting the vids up tomorrow.

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

What rim size are you running? You need side wall flex. Basically, 15"-16" rims with 28"-30" tires. ET Streets work excellent. You need the adjustable torque arm and swaybar and track locater. Camaro's have some alignment issues with the rear end not being centered. I've had many complaints of cars wandering when accelerating down the track. The track locater is under $100.00. With the help of a friend and 2 plum bobs taped to the quarters, it can be dialed in in just minutes.The swaybar can be put on fairly quick and is good for keeping the car straight reducing ET. These two pieces dramatically help the car go straight. The adjustable torque arm is much stronger than stamped steel and can help 60' with pinion angle adjustments. You already have the lower control arms, hopefully in the lower setting. Once you dial the car in at the track, you keep a log and "soften" your adjustments for the street and record that, too. These parts will help with getting your street tire hook-up problems solved. My friend has BFG's-DR-29.6"X15" on his 69 Chevelle. They work very well on the street and the track. It has a 582" with over 745lbs.of torque. 2000cfm throttle body and a Big Stuff 3 w/data aquisition. Wheels up with BMR rear suspension. Good luck.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

Yea, it gets that cold the tires are harder and the **** they spray on the track does not work as good..
Try taking off the sway bar in the front to help with weight transfer and either do a massive burnout, or wait till it warms up.

james562

iTrader: (35)

your problem is simple....

Balding 555'r wont hook worth a **** even in 90 degree weather, once the middle starts to fade they are done.

Grab some MT Street Radials and the track will welcome you to the 12 second club...

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Start with MT Street Drag Radials and the removal of the front sway bar and work on pretty much what everyone else said above, after you get some tires under it. In 43* weather, I cut 1.7's with the Nitto's and a 9-10 second burnout. But, mine had decent tread.

Jordan S.

iTrader: (17)

How do you not know why it won't hook?!

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

because i just started racing.... i can't magically know everything.

thank you everyone for the help. i have 17" rims... the ones in sig. I'll put the BFGs on and move the bars down lower. track times coming this friday!

Unstang

iTrader: (26)

As you know now, new tires will help...Good luck, you will get better with more practice, we all do.