James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

93 Firehawk LT1 350 Auto
Currently a somewhat full weight street car (the way I like it - it's a Firehawk... gutting it would be wrong)
Runs 11.89's @ 113mph; 1.588 best 60ft with a 275lbs driver.
Pump gas

I'd like to race in the 11.70 index N/A this year, that means shaving a few tenths.
I'm fishing for suggestions on how to get there.

I am considering a forged 355 and Kmember, I'm not sure the higher shift point
and small weight reduction is going to be enough though.
Driver weight loss mod in progress, but even 40lbs there isn't gonna get me where I need to be.
Every little bit helps though right?

Maybe 4.10s?

Current Mods:
K & N Air Filter (ram air SLP hood)
58mm BBK Throttle Body
TB Bypass
Meziere Electric Water Pump
LE2 Heads
LE1-HL Cam (22x/23x)
LE Ported Intake Manifold
30# SVO Injectors
Dyno Tuned (Ed Wright @ www.Fastchip.com)
ASP Harmonic Balancer (23% Underdrive)

3" Catback (Hooker Aerochamber)
Jet coated Hooker long-tube headers and ORY

3:73 w/LSD and girdle.
Yank SS4000 Torque Converter (2.6 STR)
Transgo Stage II shift kit
B&M Governor Kit; 6375rpm Shift Point
B&M Supercooler Transmission Cooler 24000 GVW
Chrome Moly Driveshaft
Weld Prostar 15x8; 275/50 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials (Track only)
Weld Prostar 15x3; Kuhmo skinnies (Track only)

HAL QA1 R-Series Front Shocks (12 pos)
HAL QA1 F-Series Rear Shocks (12 pos)
HAL QA1 300lbs Front Springs
Tubular Lower Control Arms and Panhard Bar
Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm w/ loop
Spohn Pro-Series Rear Drag Sway Bar
BMR weld-in LCA Relocation Brackets (middle hole)
Pirate Motorsports weld-in sub frame connectors

!front bumper support
!front swaybar at track
!jack and spare at track
!floormats, rear seats, STB, side molding in trunk at track
!air filter at track

bad2000z

iTrader: (4)

Cutout, maybe a PT4400. I probably wouldn't switch to 4.10's unless you're running 28" tires. If that doesn't work, put an LS1 in it.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Had a cutout, gained 3rwhp open (vs current) and lost 7rwhp closed (vs current).
Waste of money IMHO

I'm running on 275/50 15" MT ET Street Radials.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I like 4.10's but not in the stock rearend. From where you are now, 4.10's might be worth half a tenth to a tenth, and another 1 mph.... Certainly won't hurt. A 1.58 is okay but more converter might be nice unless that 60 represents spinning.

I would do more gear or more converter but not both. The gear won't do a ton but if you ever go to a 12bolt I would then do the 4.10. 4.10's + 28's can be too much tire for a stock weight car.

I'm running 4800 stall, 4.10's, 28's, 3300 raceweight and shift at 6800. I am going to more converter about 5500 and might pull 50-75 lbs out but that will be about it for me. I'm hoping to drop a few tenths from the converter since I only 60 a 1.48 on motor and run thru the traps at like 6200.

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

I bet the TP4400 would gain you more than .2.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Wouldn't a higher stall converter push shift extensions a little too high?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

You want good extension right? Too tight a converter and the rpms drop lower than is ideal.

getusumws6

iTrader: (9)

what positions do you run your Qa1's at? 1-2 in front and 10-12 out back on mine and dropped three tenths on et and gained 3mph. just my .02

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Fronts are as soft as they go, rears are third firmest.

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

I don't know what you have taken out yet but I have an ls1 car and gained .2 full tenths from frontend weight loss alone. I removed the air conditioning,front sway and the EGR system. That all added up to 47lbs off the nose and I did go from 11.7's to 11.5's. Also,I weighed the car battery from my little gas milage car,that battery was 8.5lbs lighter then my stocker. Guess what battery is in my T.A now.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

When I see a 1.58 short time, I wonder what you need to do get get into the high 1.4's.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Bigger stall, less weight seem to be the obvious options.

I could probably deal with a slightly bigger stall, but I won't gut this car.
It just wouldn't be right. I could get away with a lighter battery, at least during racing season.
The A/C stays though, my Canadian *** sweats like crazy in 105* Kansas heat LOL
(You don't even want to know what I looked like when I took a drive to Vegas and back this summer)

The 355 is almost ready and I just placed my order for a Spohn KMember this morning.
If I'm gonna make a change (cam, stall, or otherwise), I need to do it now.

The reason I suggested 4.10s is that my 3.73s howl pretty bad and reshimming has not resolved the issue.
That friction can't be helping my times.
I'm crossing the line at least 500rpm under peak HP with 3.73
I'd be right around peak (maybe 100rpm over) with 4.10s.

getusumws6

iTrader: (9)

do you race vamp?

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I was planning on doing it for the first time this year.