Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

We have noticed that the firewall tends to flex under hard braking. To address this we have developed a brace system that will work with our manual brake kit. This will eliminate the flex and apply full pedal pressure to the brakes and not to moving the firewall.

Attached are installed pictures of the brace. The price is 49.95. We will sell them for 46.95 with the purchase of a master cylinder and to anyone that needs to retrofit to a master they bought from us.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I saw one of those on eastside's car that they bought from billingsley, I was gonna ask you about that.

I'll definately add that to the K member when I order that next month, it has an adjustable end on it so it can be turned out to hit the shotk tower correct?

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Yep, install and adjust to the tower.

deadlyz28

iTrader: (29)

i really wanna get the manual brakes from you gus, among many other things but here braking is a pinta. what you gotta say?

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

My car is heavier then factory weight has has a 468 BBC with a TH-400 and a 12 bolt, factory discs and pads, converted to manual brakes and its fine for me, just have to increase stoping distances, if it was me I would not do it on a daily driver but thats just my honest opinion.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

It can be done with stock bakes. I ran that way for a year. I did not DD the car. Stoping at the track was fine. Driving on the street you would need to increase stoping distances as noted.

Combine the manual brake master and drag brakes or even Aerospace street strip brakes and you will have better stoping than the factory stuff.

GueSS Who

manual brakes here, with drag brake setup and I stopped from 165 in the 1/4.....My parachute didn't come out, so I didn't have much of a choice. I felt like I was pushing the peddle through the firewall but it stopped in time. Bet those guys at Memphis were wondering why I was flying through the corner at the end of the track while they are all out of their cars puting the chutes in their trunks. LOL

1_bad_ss

iTrader: (36)

Do you have these made in stock I will have to get one as I bought your kit at the drag expo

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Hey Steve would moving the peddle rod up on the peddle help with the hard feel and give more braking? I know in many of the converions on older hot rods this is one of the things you do.

Nice Setup

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

On the Strange master cylinder he sells it's a requirement to move the rod I believe 1" up. It gives better leverage but the thin firewall is the issue.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

These are in stock and ready to go.

We do require you to drill a hole 1" up on the pedal to mount the new master rod. The firewall will still flex.

1SlowFormula

I hope you don't mine me taking this slightly off topic, but how long do you think it would take someone with good technical skills but have never rerouted brake lines to do a manual conversion? I was thinking about going manual and removing the ABS stuff and all that for weight reduction reasons, and may be doing the front brakes at the same time, but didn't know if I had time to do it all before my first race in a few weeks...

Thanks, and sorry to pull this off topic...

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

You can do one of several things.

Pull the factory master and booster and replace with our master.

For the lines you can:
1. use our ABS delete kit and have that installed in about 1/2 hour
2. splice into the factory lines and eliminate the ABS bracket
3. run new lines from the master to all 4 corners.

1. is the easiest
2. is the cheapest
3. is the cleanest

How much work do you want to do?

1SlowFormula

I guess I should have been more clear...

I am thinking of your Manual MC and # 2 above installing the prop. valve and line lock up near the MC, and maybe do front brakes at the same time if I had enough time. As for the front brakes I was thinking either aerospace or strange...

I know if I just got pre-bent lines or kits to replace ABS stuff it will be quick and easy maybe a few hours, but was wondering how long a MC swap with rerouting the lines may take...

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

The worst part of installing the master is drilling a new hole in the pedal for the rod to attach. It has to be 1" higher than the stock location for pedal effort. Outside of that it is a few 13mm bolts.

Noone makes a prebent line kit to attach to the manual master. You will need to use an ABS delete block or fab lines.

Front brakes are not hard to do. We carry Aerospace and can get a good package together for you.

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

Steve will your Manual Brake kit work on my 2004 GTO ????? PM me if need be,

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

This is true, I had to pull the whole pedal assy to get to the pedal to drill the hole, if I had a 90degree drill, that would have made it easy though.

Redoing the lines, not too bad, but one thing I learned, 45 degree flares for the fittings at the master, and if using -3AN fittings, with tube nuts, these need to be flared @ 37degrees, NOT a double 45 degree flare. Kinda wish someone would have told me about that one when I was getting started....

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I am not sure if it will fit a GTO. We have an adapter plate for the firewall that is F Body specific. If the GTO is the same bolt pattern as the F Body booster it will.

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

I will pull it off and check. Reason I ask is because I started to go manual and changed my mind but in that time I removed the metal bracing that holds the ABS pump and spot welds to the body. So its harder to find the metal part so I might go manual plus weight savings on a 4,000lbs car is not bad

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Also check where the rod comes thru the firewall and how long it is.