CHRISPY

Hi guys,

I am picking up a stock rear without TCS. This rear is in good shape and pretty quiet (3.73's, TA cover etc) I dont want to rip it apart to switch axles and carrier for a non TCS setup.

When you removed your ABS did you install a proportioning valve? Replace lines etc?

I am seriously thinking about removing everything ABS related to my car and install a valve to control front and rear brake bias. I am getting into road racing/autocross and want something that will work well. I have heard that pedal pressure is no different after this is done (ripping out ABS) and the idea of saving 10-12 pounds is appealing as well.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!!



Chris

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

Mine are just disabled due to the Moser 9" and not having the reluctor wheel option

Only time I notice it missing are swift stops in the rain (fronts tend to lock up easy due to skinnies)

CHRISPY

haha good stuff, how about dry? Everything normal?

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

Chris...have been running just fine on my car, and two others with no proportioning valve. If there are two rear lines, just split them with a splitter. Since the master is already split within, there is no need to proportion. On all cars I have seen, the fronts are split through the line lock solenoid.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I feel that removing ABS is absolutely fine and won't effect normal driving.

There will be no differences in pedal response as abs is only activated in certain hard braking circumstances. It has nothing to do with overall pressure changes within the closed system.

We always remove all abs components and run the line directly together removing the block and other unnecessary components to clear engine spacing and remove excess weight. I would recommend a proportioning valve as you will be able to bias the front-rear (or more) for fine tuning. For ~35.00 it is worth it..its weight is almost nothing. (summits model is wilwoods valve)

The idea of the valve is to enable the brakes to lock up at the same time not front or rears first as it can create a more uncontrollable stop (not to mention not as efficient). An easy way to set up the valve is to do a hard stop in slightly wet conditions and have someone watch to see which wheels lock up first...then adjust accordingly. By utilizing the valve you will stop with shorter distances more controllably.

I have never run a setup on our cars without the valve. I suppose it is possible it may be proportioned correctly by chance using a particular wheel combination and having a specific weight distribution on a car...but I highly doubt it will be optimized for 99% of the cars out there as we all have a little different weight distribution, tire selection etc... By correctly proportioning the bias, you will increase your stopping power, while decrease your stopping distance which is always a good thing.

Hope this helps,

Steve

DERTY

I've not had any problems running with no valve. It stops just fine so far.

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Hey Steve, what all is involved with installing a proportioning valve like that? Do you have to modify the stock brake lines, or replace them?

CHRISPY

That is what I wanted to get for autocross and road racing. I can then control front/rear braking bias.

thanks for the information. How much weight do you think it saved?

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Its not really only for auto crossing. Actually, its a good idea in general for better stopping performance...even for in the case listed above when Fireball is in the rain and his fronts lock up before the rears...with the valve, even on dry surfaces, stopping power will be better and prove to be shorter...

I am not sure exactly how much all the parts weigh including the computer and wires...but its a nice savings...maybe ~15lbs total??

To remove the lines leading to the unit...for simplicity, you can tie the the sets of rear lines together (if applicable).

Change over to standard double flare fittings as they are readily available...keep the same metric fitting which leads into the master cyl...depending on how you run the lines, you can reuse the piece leading into the master cyl..or replace it using similar metric bubble flare line.

you'll find it to be actually pretty simple once you start digging into it. Just keep in mind, you don't have to follow the exact same paths they were ran stock...actually, if you do that, it will look more messy...there are much better paths once the abs components are removed.

Good luck!

Steve

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Be sure you don't run them too close to the headers...boiling your fluid isn't a good thing:-). In addition, be sure if your splicing two lines together to make one, come out with a larger line which will increase flow capabilities.