Wdpballer46

I went to the dyno yesterday and here are the results:


Mods:
Lid
P&P throttle body
Long tubes
Catted y and Catback
Torquer 2
7.4 pushrods
prc doulbe springs
ls6 intake
and no2 (wasnt sprayed for the dyno run, there was a problem with the bottle)
And other little things that dont add power (oil pump, timing chain, ect)

The numbers seem really low to me but who knows.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

hell no they look reallty low? might just be bad dyno numbers...but screw that hoe do she feel???

nevrlift13

iTrader: (7)

i have V2 cam with stock LS6 manifold, edelbrock victor headers, tsp dual dumps, ported shaner tbody my best dyno# to date was 416/412

nevrlift13

iTrader: (7)

i agree...especially above 4k rpm ???

Wdpballer46

honestly it just feels alot smoother then it was when it was untuned, not necessary quicker

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

sounds like a shitty tune? who did it, and you did get all new push rods, springs? and how many miles are on her? do you kno the injector%?

nevrlift13

iTrader: (7)

hmm...thats not a bad thing, how does it idle?

Titanws6

iTrader: (35)

Dang I have NO cam, same bolt ons, and am pushin almost 30lb/tq than that, Houston, we have a problem! Something is way off, I would be pretty upset leaving with those numbers.

Wdpballer46

all new push rods and springs (when i did the cam), and as it sits now... 94k on the clock. its a '00 so i believe it had 28lb injectors but i could be wrong.

idk where to start looking for the rest of the power that there is supposed to be, any ideas would be nice.

Wdpballer46

idle isn't bad, around 1200 right when i start it, then it drops to about 800-900 after a few seconds. when i'm moving tho, it hangs around 1500 and doesn't drop till i come to a COMPLETE stop, i'm not sure if thats normal or not.

Titanws6

iTrader: (35)

No that is not normal, I'm assuming your an M6, mine was doing the same thing after I installed my LS6 intake, turns out I had a vaccum leak, my tuner caught this, yours should have too, check your PCV hoses, this will be a good place to start lookin. I can't believe the tuner didn't say or do anything about it, thats crappy on his part.

01ws666

Sock injecters for that year were either 26 or 28lbs i think, do you know what % duty cycle yours were at during WOT? If stock They should be maxed out with that cam, for referance my buddy just put down 410hp and 380 something torque through a stalled auto, cam only with a torquer v2...

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

Did you degree the cam to make sure it was installed correctly? We just degreed my buddies mustang after putting a new timing set in, turns out it was 8 degrees retarded. Kinda explains why it had no low end power and wanted to turn 7500 rpm lol.

Swift_01_z-28

iTrader: (1)

Man those numbers are low. Also, your car stock had 26lb injectors. Sounds to me like you got a bum *** deal from your tuner. That cam with bolt-ons should have netted you close to 400 at the wheels with a decent amount of torque to go with it. Need a tuner you do yes.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

It's always the tuners fault. It can't be the inexperienced DIY guy that put it together. Nope. Gotta be the tuner. I mean, the A/F is dead on, all ya gotta do is find the timings happy zone, and then it is what it is. At least for WOT tuning. There's no magic buttons to push to make it make power. It's just A/F and timing. Pretty cut and dried. Idle and driveability tuning, that's a different story, but WOT tuning is pretty easy.

Just yesterday, I tuned an Fbody with a fairly stout cam (don't know the cool e-name), Patriot CNCed 243s, stalled auto, and it made 383/325 with a locked 'verter. I guess the low power in that would be my fault, eh?

Pharm0r

iTrader: (17)

A cam install isnt that hard. It's possible he might have missed somthing, but most of it is straight forward.

The fact still remains those are extreamly low numbers for that cam. I still have 8deg of knock retard and am running higher numbers than that with just bold ons. So yes, my vote is for the tuner.

Id say at least get with your tuner and try to find the problem, not nessasarily in the tune, but look around, you might be able to see something with hptuners (or whatever you use) that you cant tell by just looking at the engine.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

I never said a cam install was hard. Just making a point that it's just as likely installer error as tuner error, it's just easier for everyone to say "it's the tuner".

I'm not arguing the numbers, just the reason. The A/F is spot on, so all there is really is timing. If it's even close, he's done his job. At least the WOT part, can't speak for the other portions of the tune.

Most tuners couldn't diagnose their way out of a paper bag. Alot of the diagnostics that go into figuring out a problem like this have nothing to do with scan data. Some of it may apply, but you can't do a leakdown test with a scanner. Or an exhaust back pressure test. Or an injector flow test.

Point being with the limited facts, that being a dyno sheet with an A/F graph, and that being almost perfect, how can one automatically point to a tuner? Besides the obvious, that being it's the easiest thing to do.

Wdpballer46

so what would be the first thing i should do? i cant think of anything that would cause that much power loss.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Here is the magic question -- what did it dyno before the Cam?I've seen a ton of low powered cars,so when you do the bolt-ons they are still low.

Take my car -260rwhp stock (99TA) With pretty much the same setup as yours -370rwhp.Some cars just dyno low.Now if you dyno'd before and said you only gained 20hp then we could say something is wrong.

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

See what it will mph at the track, that will tell a lot.