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FAST 92/92 VS Stock TB/LS1 intake Gains (M6) ect...
Here are my results of my FAST 92 intake with FAST 92 TB swap. The dyno sheet is 2 run files before and after on the same sheet (before being a stock TB and LS1 intake). The gains were amazing after the install (driving wise) but surprisingly lower than anticipated on paper. I really thought I'd be over 400 RWHP and so did my tuner. He is one of the best in the business so I rule out the tune being the issue. He mentioned that just about every other LS1 he's tuned doesn't have the K&N FIPK set-up like I do, and that may be my problem. He suggested that I swap that out for the SLP RAM AIR w/ LID style and also upgrade the MAF to the SLP as well (currently Granatelli MAF).
As far as my times go I feel like they should be lower and higher trap speed (car 55, this is before the FAST intake upgrade).
I asked him why my MPH is so low compared to other people on the site with similar set-up as myself... Basically he said that I really don't have enough seat time at the track and not to worry about it. I brought up the new shift light I installed and he was curious as to why I had it set so low (6400). I mentioned that a member on here recommended to me that I should NOT shift any higher than 6500 due to damaging the engine. So this is what he said lol...
Basically I've been robbing myself of a decent time do to short shifting. The cam I have should be shifted at 6900-7000. By doing that I will fall back into my power band and drastically improve my ET and trap speed. Even tho I don't have the beehive springs like people praise, I'm still going to roll with it.
Last edited by scotty2000ss; 10-18-2014 at 12:19 AM.
I had an FIPK on mine from the previous owner. Lid and SSRA picked up significantly. It was all stock besides a Flowmaster otherwise and I was very impressed with the gains especially up top.
So, you picked up 20/10 essentially with the FAST 92 over LS1 with no heads.
Something is also wrong with that car. It should be making more power than 370rwhp before the FAST.
Also, you should be shifting at 7200 or so with that cam once it's dialed in. And it's not. Something is off there. If you're afraid of grenading your engine, then you picked the wrong cam. The StreetSweeper-HT from Ed Curtis would have been better for midrange power and could have been shifted around 6500-6600. 228/232 111...
And I'm not sure what beehives have to do with anything. Nobody would run beehives with the Hellion's lobes.
So, you picked up 20/10 essentially with the FAST 92 over LS1 with no heads.
Something is also wrong with that car. It should be making more power than 370rwhp before the FAST.
Also, you should be shifting at 7200 or so with that cam once it's dialed in. And it's not. Something is off there. If you're afraid of grenading your engine, then you picked the wrong cam. The StreetSweeper-HT from Ed Curtis would have been better for midrange power and could have been shifted around 6500-6600. 228/232 111...
And I'm not sure what beehives have to do with anything. Nobody would run beehives with the Hellion's lobes.
The tuner and I talked about the low numbers. I believe its due to the cats (-10HP) and also the 3:90s (power loss on the dyno). The ram air set up is also not helping either. I really think my issue is my stock 241s. Can you honestly say you have seen someone on here with the same set up as I do? I haven't seen one yet. I saw one guy with a similar set up be his heads were ported and the gains from that were significant.
The tuner and I talked about the low numbers. I believe its due to the cats (-10HP) and also the 3:90s (power loss on the dyno). The ram air set up is also not helping either. I really think my issue is my stock 241s. Can you honestly say you have seen someone on here with the same set up as I do? I haven't seen one yet. I saw one guy with a similar set up be his heads were ported and the gains from that were significant.
That cam is simply wrong for the motor / car.
That cam needs gears, even steeper than 3.90's. It needs to BREATHE- that means the highest flowing heads you can get.
It's not a Y-pipe fan either. The freest flowing exhaust you can get...
To spin that cam where you need to, I hope you have titanium retainers. Also I wouldn't put 5/16" .080 wall pushrods either. Not for a 7k car.
You realize you have a straight drag cam, right? The original StreetSweeper would be a much better choice, or even the SSHT, as mentioned.
That cam needs gears, even steeper than 3.90's. It needs to BREATHE- that means the highest flowing heads you can get.
It's not a Y-pipe fan either. The freest flowing exhaust you can get...
To spin that cam where you need to, I hope you have titanium retainers. Also I wouldn't put 5/16" .080 wall pushrods either. Not for a 7k car.
You realize you have a straight drag cam, right? The original StreetSweeper would be a much better choice, or even the SSHT, as mentioned.
Ok, I didn't post this thread so people can bash me for my set up. I have what I have and it is the way it is. I realize there is much better set ups out there. All I'm trying to do is put some good info out there as far as numbers. We all have a learning curve at some point when it comes to cars. When I originally bought everything I should have researched more. Instead I said " I want a bad *** cam that sounds killer" Mike even said " You know we have that exact same cam in our race car" That made me want it even more... I'm planning on keeping the car forever and I will eventually upgrade the heads when I get the funds. For now, it looks like I should ditch the cats even though before I added them my neighbors wanted to shoot me because of the noise @ 5:30 am lol.
Sorry if I come off as a dick but I'm just getting tired of people saying my set up sucks
Cats, Y-Pipe, etc. Won't pick up the 40rwhp you're down. Plus the ARH cats are actually pretty good. So is their Y-Pipe. Are they 1-3/4" headers?
That cam with a FAST 92 and 241s, good headers, and a valvetrain that isn't imploding should be 430rwhp. That's how much cam you have.
As stated by Whigham, you still need a lot of work to support that cam. But it should be doing better than it is.
There was a guy here in town who had it in a 383. And he sold the car. It was too much in a 383. But he made 490rwhp with it with some TEA 1.5 heads and like 470rwtq.
I'd definitely run Ti retainers, 11/32 or 3/8" pushrods, better than stock lifters, 1-7/8" headers, true duals, and some ported heads with compression up near 11.8:1. I'd also throw some 4.30s at it.
I do not think anybody said your setup sucks, it is just setup far from optimal. That cam needs spun to 7-7200 and you need 4:56 gears with a much better flowing exhaust.The 241's are not hurting power that bad. It should still trap 120 with stock heads in decent air.
I do not think anybody said your setup sucks, it is just setup far from optimal. That cam needs spun to 7-7200 and you need 4:56 gears with a much better flowing exhaust.The 241's are not hurting power that bad. It should still trap 120 with stock heads in decent air.
Ok, sorry to get defensive. I have 1 7/8 headers.
Why would my power off 40 hp? The car feels strong. Has 84,000 miles on it and 3000 miles on the LS7 clutch.
Last edited by scotty2000ss; 12-09-2014 at 08:16 PM.
Dynos are just tuning equipment. So it may not be that far off. But a 112 trap suggests it is. That's a small cam trap.
I would expect 116-117 as long as the car isn't 3800+ lbs. I don't know about 120. Spin to 7200 and see what that does. You might pick up 2-3mph. So you're still looking for 2-3 I would think (at least).
I do not think anybody said your setup sucks, it is just setup far from optimal. That cam needs spun to 7-7200 and you need 4:56 gears with a much better flowing exhaust.The 241's are not hurting power that bad. It should still trap 120 with stock heads in decent air.
Keep in mind I haven't ran the car since the intake swap and the slip I have listed I was short shifting like a mo foe.
Dynos are just tuning equipment. So it may not be that far off. But a 112 trap suggests it is. That's a small cam trap.
I would expect 116-117 as long as the car isn't 3800+ lbs. I don't know about 120. Spin to 7200 and see what that does. You might pick up 2-3mph. So you're still looking for 2-3 I would think (at least).
Exactly what Mike said when we were going over the shift points as compared to the dyno graph. My car is convertible with subs in the trunk so it's a weight hog. Another key factor. I haven't had it weighed and I can't recall the factory weight for a convertible.
The funny thing is when I had pace setter headers and ory with the same cam I dyno'ed at 398 rwhp. But the day I got the car back I blew the clutch. They had to cut my exhaust off when the new clutch went in so that's why I went with the new exhaust set up. The thing that sucks is I don't have any room at all for a cut out before the cats on the arh set up. I've been thinking of making an insertable pipe in place of the cats with a bandclamp. That way I could remove them as desired.
My car is a shining example of low dyno numbers but actually runs like it has that extra 50 hp that the dyno says I don't have lol....Bottom line forget the dyno numbers Now your trap speed is important and I agree with others that it's way off. Even shifting at 6400 you should be getting AT LEAST 114-115 IMO
My car is a shining example of low dyno numbers but actually runs like it has that extra 50 hp that the dyno says I don't have lol....Bottom line forget the dyno numbers Now your trap speed is important and I agree with others that it's way off. Even shifting at 6400 you should be getting AT LEAST 114-115 IMO
Thanks for the input man. Yea, that trap speed is low. Haven't seen many f body's at the track when I go so I can't rule out the track either. I think with more seat time I can dial it in.
Any idea on where your timing is at? Not just WOT but all around? I just found out I had a VERY weak and conservative tune but had that fixed last nite
Any idea on where your timing is at? Not just WOT but all around? I just found out I had a VERY weak and conservative tune but had that fixed last nite
I'm not sure what the timing is at. I'll shoot my tuner a text later today and see if he remembers any details about my tune.
The gains look good for an intake swap. I picked up 15 rwhp with a FAST 90 vs my LS6, but the tune was also better, so all of that gain can't be attributed to the intake alone.
The gains look good for an intake swap. I picked up 15 rwhp with a FAST 90 vs my LS6, but the tune was also better, so all of that gain can't be attributed to the intake alone.
I upgraded the throttle body as well to a fast 92MM.
10-17-2014, 10:43 PM
FAST 92/92 VS Stock TB/LS1 intake Gains (M6) ect... 
Now your trap speed is important and I agree with others that it's way off. Even shifting at 6400 you should be getting AT LEAST 114-115 IMO 