Low dyno w/224 need help
02-19-2005, 10:06 PM
#1
Low dyno w/224 need help Just had my car dyno'd. 353 hp 360 tq with the a/f steady at 13. I have a 99 SS with the SLP D/D from factory. I have installed SW LT's, TR224 112 lsa, pulley. Factory lid and a fram paper filter. What am I missing to get the 380-395 that I should get from the cam without head work. Is the SLP d/d holding me back as well? I know I need the ls6 intake but 35 hp? Dont have money to waste and the wife would kill me if she knew what I spent already but I want to see the true gains of this cam.. what to do? money needs to be spent wisely. Lid and holley powershot on the way.
02-19-2005, 10:14 PM
#2
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First off, Factory lid and paper filter? Come on man. Thats a good amount of air flow lose right there. I know it may not seem like it will make up the 35 HP you are expecting, but its a good chunk. And most people are getting the 380-390 with the LS6 intake. The intake helps more with people with a cam and longtubes like what you have. Just open up the breathing some, you just might be surprised what happens. Hope this helps.
Rick
Rick
02-19-2005, 10:23 PM
#3
Originally Posted by Rick@Synergy
First off, Factory lid and paper filter? Come on man. Thats a good amount of air flow lose right there. I know it may not seem like it will make up the 35 HP you are expecting, but its a good chunk. And most people are getting the 380-390 with the LS6 intake. The intake helps more with people with a cam and longtubes like what you have. Just open up the breathing some, you just might be surprised what happens. Hope this helps.
Rick
Rick
hehe dyno dude wanted to sell me a 150 shot setup. How bad is that on your bottom end anyway?
02-19-2005, 10:35 PM
#6
automatic cars dyno considerably less...and your biggest restriction is in the intake...you will gain at least 20-30hp with ls6 intake and a new lid...cam's love the ls6 intake...when you add a cam you need to make sure you have bolt-ons to help it...just like if you added a cam without any exhaust work you wouldn't get near as much as you would if you had lt's....same goes for intake too...
02-19-2005, 10:44 PM
#7
Originally Posted by 777
automatic cars dyno considerably less...and your biggest restriction is in the intake...you will gain at least 20-30hp with ls6 intake and a new lid...cam's love the ls6 intake...when you add a cam you need to make sure you have bolt-ons to help it...just like if you added a cam without any exhaust work you wouldn't get near as much as you would if you had lt's....same goes for intake too...
Looks like the back bolts are tougher than doing the cam and headers.
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02-20-2005, 03:08 AM
#8
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Get the LS6 intake, a lid (skip the filter, get a good paper one like wix or fram), and tuning. A ported/polished throttle body couldn't hurt either.This should get you about the numbers you are expecting. Your catback is pretty free flowing, so that shouldn't be holding you back. It's the induction side that is your bottle neck.
02-20-2005, 03:10 AM
#9
sounds good for the mods u got.. spend the 150 on a lid and filter and port ur tb.. ls6 intake and all that should be worth 15-20rwhp easily.. then there is always such mods as pulleys ect that u can do to get 5-10 more.. add all the mods and dyno tune again and i think u could come close to picking up 380-385..
02-20-2005, 12:56 PM
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Like stated several time already, your lid and intake is your restriction. Are you still running CAT's? The SLP D/D is as good as any exhaust out there in the flow department. You can probably pick up another 5-10 with a cutout as well, another 5 with ported TB, and maybe another 5 with a pulley. I think you could hit 390+ with all those mods...
02-20-2005, 05:04 PM
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you could add a cutout in the I pipe, I dynoed my car with LT's, Mufflex Y, D/D with cutout opened and i gained about 8 ponies bypassing the D/D, this was with the TR224 cam.....
02-20-2005, 05:22 PM
#13
I just got back from tuning a 2000 Formula M6 with a TR 224 112LSA cam a few hours ago.
His other mods are: lid, cutout, Mac mid length headers, no cats, STOCK LS1 INTAKE.
He put down 363 HP & 379 TQ at the wheels with a A/F of 12.6 and 28 degrees of timing and no knock.....
His other mods are: lid, cutout, Mac mid length headers, no cats, STOCK LS1 INTAKE.
He put down 363 HP & 379 TQ at the wheels with a A/F of 12.6 and 28 degrees of timing and no knock.....
02-20-2005, 09:51 PM
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I've seen a gain of 18rwhp with an LS6 intake on a 228 cammed LS1 before over a stock LS1 intake. To get to your power level you need..... lid, ported tb, LS6 intake, cutout is good for 8-10rwhp over a DD muffler and mostly a good LS1Edit tune. A ASP pulley is not gonna hurt anything either.
02-20-2005, 10:02 PM
#16
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Aftermarket lid = good. Oiled type filter = bad.
The lid is the restriction, the paper element is not.
Stock these cars (at least, my year) have way less
timing than they can ultimately tolerate. If you're
at 13:1 I'd guess you have been tuned already?
Don't ignore the simple things - even if you don't have
a ported TB, an awful lot of people find their throttle
is never fully open due to bump stop or cable slack or
even floor mats.
You could pick up a junkyard MAF for dirt cheap and
pop the screen, and swap that end onto yours; see if
you pick up any problems, probably won't and there's
some upside there, I saw the same order of pressure drop
across a screened MAF as across the stock lid in my
tests.
The lid is the restriction, the paper element is not.
Stock these cars (at least, my year) have way less
timing than they can ultimately tolerate. If you're
at 13:1 I'd guess you have been tuned already?
Don't ignore the simple things - even if you don't have
a ported TB, an awful lot of people find their throttle
is never fully open due to bump stop or cable slack or
even floor mats.
You could pick up a junkyard MAF for dirt cheap and
pop the screen, and swap that end onto yours; see if
you pick up any problems, probably won't and there's
some upside there, I saw the same order of pressure drop
across a screened MAF as across the stock lid in my
tests.
02-21-2005, 08:49 AM
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I personally have been monitoring these TR224 threads as I just had one installed in my 2000 Corvette, A4, FULL bolt ons..
For the life of me, I can't see how all these guys get 380 RWHP & big TQ#'s, unless the converter is locked on the dyno which can add 10-25 HP & TQ..
I fell somewhat short on the UNLOCKED RWHP, as I clocked in at 355 RWHP but good on RWTQ @ 378..
Had the converter been locked my RWHP would have been +26 for 381.
Dyno #'s are just #'s....
My car runs mid-upper 11's, BEFORE the cam... So #'s are not everything...
I feel your #'s are about par.... Don't sweat it...
For the life of me, I can't see how all these guys get 380 RWHP & big TQ#'s, unless the converter is locked on the dyno which can add 10-25 HP & TQ..
I fell somewhat short on the UNLOCKED RWHP, as I clocked in at 355 RWHP but good on RWTQ @ 378..
Had the converter been locked my RWHP would have been +26 for 381.
Dyno #'s are just #'s....
My car runs mid-upper 11's, BEFORE the cam... So #'s are not everything...
I feel your #'s are about par.... Don't sweat it...
Last edited by YO-EL; 02-21-2005 at 12:21 PM.
02-21-2005, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Billiumss
I just got back from tuning a 2000 Formula M6 with a TR 224 112LSA cam a few hours ago.
His other mods are: lid, cutout, Mac mid length headers, no cats, STOCK LS1 INTAKE.
He put down 363 HP & 379 TQ at the wheels with a A/F of 12.6 and 28 degrees of timing and no knock.....
His other mods are: lid, cutout, Mac mid length headers, no cats, STOCK LS1 INTAKE.
He put down 363 HP & 379 TQ at the wheels with a A/F of 12.6 and 28 degrees of timing and no knock.....
Yes, Thanks again Bill. She is running awesome now. Also they guy operating the dyno mentioned that with us opening and closing the doors letting the temp. jump all over the place his "weather station" for lack of a better term, was having a fit correcting the reading. He said if we could dyno on a solid 80 degree day He could see an honest 10-15rwhp increase on the dyno.
Anyways next mod ls6 intake.
