TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

mods in sig. i hit 289rwhp there computer was messed up so i couldn't get a rwtq number. does this sound about right or not. here is the run down:
12.2:1 afr from 4000rpm up to 6300 (couldn't get it any leaner)
29* from 3000-4000then droped to 28* until 5200 then back to 29* timing.
3rd gear run
tires size is 275/75/16 gears 3.73's with detroit locker.
and the exhaust is stock manifolds and y pipe. after the y pipe it goes to a 4" exhaust this is because there will be a turbo shortly and me and my freind got bored and put part of my turbo exhaust on. we figured it was better than the 2 1/2. oh and the 5.7l in sig is the ls1 not ls6 just to clear that up.

hondo

iTrader: (2)

sounds about right, being a 4x4 and all.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

how often do valve seals go out i have oil on my spark plugs in number 1&3. and those two hit a 265-270 on the compression test. all others hit a 195-200.

SEB

iTrader: (12)

try some thicker oil!

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

running 5w40 now, how thick do i need?

93ChevExt5.7

4.8T - those are some pretty good numbers for the only modifications you've made - I'd be happy with them. There's a lot of disadvantages extended cabs have to overcome, much less 4x4.

Back when I had a TBI (L98) setup I had the following (granted you have a much newer engine style being 2004):
Canfield 195cc Aluminum Cylinder heads
219/228 and .454/.480 lift @.50 (but I had 1.6:1 Harland Sharp Roller Rockers)
TBI spacer
Custom Tune
Edelbrock headers
E-Fan

This setup put 255rwhp and 310rwlbtq

Take care.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

From what I've talked about at local shops, those trucks usually put down about 280, not bad at man, I'd be proud.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

alright i guess its better than what i thought. i just thought the ls1 would yeild better numbers but i guess my drive train loss is pretty bad. what kinda drive train loss do you think i'm looking at here? 20% or more or what?

93ChevExt5.7

4.8T -

You see my sig right? With this setup, I held my own right beside (and even led for about half the race) against a Dodge Charger with the 6.1liter (SRT8). My front bumper was right at his rear bumper near the end of the 1/4 mile. So if I'm getting 355rwhp with a 2 piece driveshaft and 8.5" 10-bolt (full inch larger than a camaro) and weigh 4600lbs then I'd say 20% would be (maybe a little on the)conservative side relative to your drivetrain loss.

I mean, Dodge Charger SRT8 puts 425hp @ crank and weigh around 4200lbs and they get about 13.5 in the 1/4 mile.

20% drivetrain loss with my 355rwhp puts me at about 426hp at the crank.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

so what your saying is i probably have more than 20%. you have alot more than i do for sure done to yours. i mean Realistically i'm all stock with a cam. stock 4.8l manifolds and y pipe and all. ok so the more i think about the better i feel. thanks guys. lol and i did get my afr back to where it needs to be. i had a ltft of +14 in my wot ranges so no matter what i did it was adding fuel. i reset fuel trims and put my pe table back to 1.131 and loaded a stock 6.0 maf table. it ran way better the fall of at shift was allmost unnoticeable.

Hemi Killer

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't sweat it, dyno #s are nice but don't mean everything. I know a guy who used to brag about having 29x rwhp in a 4.8 and talked about how he was gonna smoke me and all that. WHO got their *** whooped at the track? Wasn't me. This is back before I had 3.90s(had 3.42s) and cut-outs. He had about a truck length jump on me out of the hole with 3.73s and a 2200 stall. I caught him at the end of first gear and pulled him hard all the way through second. My buddy was riding with me and videotaped it. I think I beat him by 1-1.2 seconds. His problem was, he didn't have any torque curve to go with the top-end horsepower of his 02' LS6 cam he was running at the time.
Your stall and heavy-duty drivetrain eats alot power up as well. Get some headers and you'd be past the 300rwhp mark. Good Luck!

TeEnAgE pHeNoM

iTrader: (6)

Dyno numbers are not the end of the world

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

thats easy to say when your making that kind of power lol.

verbs

i wouldn't sweat it; just get the turbo on

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

i got my 3" to 4" adapter and my 3" coneector and three 3" t-bolt clamps and 1 4" t bolt clamp in today now just waiting on my pipe to show up and i may start the inter coole today. i'll have to kinda build it peice by piece but the inter cooler is gonna be the hardest part i think so i'll do it first. doing it this way i won't have to take anything else back apart to finish the install. just a matter of running piping and oil lines really.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

So you took out the 4.8l and put in a 5.7? Did they dyno the truck in 2nd or 3rd gear?What kind of dyno?

Fix the tune before you go back.+14 L-terms is not a good thing,means the tune is way off and your wasting time at the dyno
Also your 12.2 A/F is about perfect for a heavy truck.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

yeah there is no 4.8 any more but i like the user name so i'm keeping it lol. i cleared the trims out it was like that because i kinda screwed up the ve and everything i forgot to go back and fix it. i don't need that much fuel i don't think. there is no nock retard so why waste the fuel and power. afetr i reset fuel trims and fixed the ve and maf it pulled way harder than before on the shifts. i went to the dyno to try and fix the tune. i didn't relize it made fuel trims at wot. so i didn't get to fix the tune but when i got home i fixed it. it was a donation dyno day so for like 40 bucks i got 5 pulls. would have been more if i would have made some progress. any how it was a dyno jet and it was 3rd gear. it was a smooth pull untill about 145-150 mph then it vibed just a little bit but nothing bad.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

well i'm going back to the dyno. the first time i went the dyno computer software was screwy and it could give tq numbers just hp. the printer was also broke so i couldn't get a print off. so he said its all back up and running and i could come up for a free pull to get a graph for my base line before the turbo install.

qestion: i'm back to the stock intake tube and box because of my intercooler i installed is in the way of my other intake i had. it kinda doesn't flow as well as it did so should i just attach the maf to my throttlebody and run it once open like that or just see what i does through stock intake?