TCW

iTrader: (3)

Mods are LS6, Ported TB, Torquer V3 231/234 .643/.598 111lsa, Lid, Pacesetter LT, PS Y-pipe, cutout. All I can think of right now. 1999 Transam M6

Also went to the track the evening of the dyno/tune. Car stalled on me a couple times and threw a new SES code(when pushing in clutch and coming to a stop). Getting this fixxed by the tuner today. Also didnt realize the TCS turned itself back on so only got two runs in without it(thought I was braking too hard for burnout , I was quite upset lol). Needless to say best of 2.2 60' 13.6 @ 106. (1st non TCS run I had a 2.0 60ft[with traction issues] but missed 3rd, 2nd I bogged)

Any ideas(other than driver mod). Also for about 1 foot after the y-pipe there is stock exhaust, then cutout, then stock catback. Isn't the stock exhuast 2.5 so could it be making some restriction with 3",2.5", then 3" again.
366.8@6200 DYNOJET
353.5@4700




When I say low numbers I am really talking about the mph. With more practice then this car can get into the 12's at 110mph?

Thanks

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

all of it looks low to me.....

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Thanks lol

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Your low rpm torque looks really low and your power peak is very late which indicates a retarded intake centerline. Looks like a 113 intake centerline. Should be around 108 for best power under the curve cam-only. Do a compression test. I would bet you're under 150 psi. You should be 180 or more.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Could you clarify what that is dictated by the intake centerline and what it is? Assuming its the center of the intake lobe, so would that be manufacture defect or just the grind?

I will get to the compression test this week sometime. Do I really need to do them all or could I just do the front four get get an "idea" of where I am at.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Front 4 will give you a ballpark idea of where your compression is. To find the intake centerline, you need to measure piston TDC (use the # piston), then measure the centerline of the #1 intake cam lobe and reference it TDC of the piston. Ideally, you should be around 108 with that cam and a stock long block. Based on your low torque and late power peak, I suspect that your intake centerline is much later. Could be a tooth off or a really stretched timing chain messing with your numbers.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Brand new ls2 timing chain, and it was not a tooth off.

Pntbll309

iTrader: (33)

Yeah those times are very low. My mild bolt on car ran a 13.7 @ 104 at 5200' elevation making around 275ish uncorrected HP.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

I am hoping to run better times next time out. Those numbers were with TCS turned on, so it was bogging down to like 1500 rpm off the line, didnt get to shift to 2nd until 1/8 mile.


Also should my injectors be at 105% duty cycle with this power level(26lb)

TCW

iTrader: (3)

FOUND THE CULPRIT, hopefully. Well I decided to check if the plug wires where arcing. Low and behold the front passenger plug wire was arcing to the cylinder. Not only that, it was popped off of the plug, backed off about an inch. No idea why my SES light wasnt flashing. Needless to say I think I need a new dyno and a night at the strip.

Lemme know what you think

Also new plug wires and one plug.

Think any damage to the rings might of been had from gas washing the rings clean.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking about it, and if one cylinder wasnt firing and was pouring fuel in the exhuast couldnt that through off my A/F reading big time and mean I am actully lean now at wot, then again I was at 105% duty cycle so there is a lot of fuel. Maybe it was just misfiring? Or is it too consistent on the graph and the wire probaly popped off at the track?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

A lot of times an arcing plug wire doesn't rob enough spark energy at light loads to cause misfiring, but it will as load goes up. Whenever the light is flashing, the car is (or at least thinks) that it is currently misfiring. If TCS was on, unfortunately, MPH becomes a poor indicator of HP, so it kind of skews the track numbers.

At any rate, let me know what you find as far as the numbers go for compression and let me know if you want it back on the dyno and we will get it done. Good luck and keep me up on the status.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

I did a compression check on the first four cylinders. Depending on how long I cranked it I would get 150-180psi. 2-3 seconds and 3-4 respectively. Also all the cylinders plugs have <400 miles on them and are white. Although some look greenish white w/e green means. I attached pictures of the plugs in order and cylinder four's wire. Does that look like arching or exhaust leak (I am thinking leak). Are you suppose to crank until max psi or a certain time? Also I did WOT and intially operating temp. It was running rich before the tune so could the A/F been tuned with one cylinder puring gas causing the lean condition? I guess I will just not get on it until I get it tuned this or next weekend on the dyno.

Thanks

Also 127k miles

cyl1-185
cyl2-180
cyl3-180
cyl4-175

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Should I replace these sparkplugs now before getting it dynoed? Could it have ran lean because I need bigger injectors?

Come on now, help me answer some of these questions(^^^^^ those too)..

Top Secret

A green or orange spark plug indicates a blown headgasket.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Why would it have the highest compression then?

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Mayby I am just being paranoid and this is the light grey that is due to normal operation, even if in 400 miles. If I do end up getting heads for this car I might as well get a paintjob and not plan on seling it for years. I'll do some research on a leak down test and do that as well I suppose.

And if it is a headgasket leak, there is no coolant smell in exhaust(overpowered by gas lol), steam, nor oil in coolant and vice versa. Although the oil does smell of gas, but then again one cylinder wasn't firing for some time.

EndlessSummer85

First off change the oil, I would replace the plugs too, then get it retuned.

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

I know how you feel man. There is something definitely wrong with my cam only car as well. My graph looks identical to yours except my numbers were 345/335 on a superflo dyno. Does the car run decent just not have all the power there it should? My car runs fine but barely pulls anything on my buddies bolt on Z28. I need to tear it apart and degree the cam correctly. I bet I have going on what Patrick said. Could be off a tooth or a retarded intake centerline. I hope that's all it is. I should be close to 400 RWHP with the cam Patrick spec'd me and I am nowhere near that mark. Keep us updated with your findings.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Likewise, I am probaly not going to take it apart unless I am certain that that is the problem. Post findings here if you would.

Thanks