does my dyno graph look funky to you?
08-07-2008, 06:19 PM
#4
1. ls6 intake
2. thunder racing ported TB
3. hooker 1 3/4" headers and 2.5" dual exhaust
4. west coast racing stage II ls1 heads WCCH 2003
5. 42# injectors
6. GM mls gaskets 8544
7. ls2 timing chain
8. LS6 pump
9. Comp push rods
10. spec stage 3 clutch with aluminum flywheel
11. 99-TR230/236-112 Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
"Split Pattern" - 230/236 .592/.602 112 LSA
12. ASP 25% underdrive pulley
2. thunder racing ported TB
3. hooker 1 3/4" headers and 2.5" dual exhaust
4. west coast racing stage II ls1 heads WCCH 2003
5. 42# injectors
6. GM mls gaskets 8544
7. ls2 timing chain
8. LS6 pump
9. Comp push rods
10. spec stage 3 clutch with aluminum flywheel
11. 99-TR230/236-112 Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
"Split Pattern" - 230/236 .592/.602 112 LSA
12. ASP 25% underdrive pulley
06-02-2016, 05:35 PM
#5
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It's cool finding old build threads since I own this car now (bought it off a guy that SatisTraction sold it to). I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on this since it still has the same engine in it.
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06-02-2016, 10:54 PM
#8
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Vancouver, Canada area. The previous owner didn't do a lot of maintenance and wasn't really a "car guy". I picked it up last year off of him and have done a fair amount. It now has a built 12 bolt with 4.11 gears and a t56 magnum transmission in it (old t56 was popping and grinding out of reverse). Engine is currently exactly as you left it. Next up is probably going to be caltracs and subframe connectors as you get wheel hop if you launch the car hard on the street. A minitub and 4 link would be nice but that'll have to wait a bit.
Good job on getting the LS in there. Really good job. The engine still reads oil pressure a little bit low on the gauge in the center console but nothing dangerously low. Thinking I might hook up a mechanical gauge to it at some point and see what that reads but I feel like if there was a serious problem with the oil pressure something would have let go a long time ago.
Good job on getting the LS in there. Really good job. The engine still reads oil pressure a little bit low on the gauge in the center console but nothing dangerously low. Thinking I might hook up a mechanical gauge to it at some point and see what that reads but I feel like if there was a serious problem with the oil pressure something would have let go a long time ago.
06-02-2016, 10:55 PM
#9
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06-03-2016, 03:58 AM
#10
1. always post with a/f data and timing if you have it
2. Always use smoothing:0 for examining this type of data
Reading the graph:
your engine's VE begins to fall after 5k. It has a strong torque curve that looks like a fun street car. I feel that you are missing alot of torque from 2400 to 3600 because your exhaust system is too large perhaps, or you have other "largish" ports somewhere slowing down the velocity of gasses at those rpm. If the engine has an OEM bearing and you are using 10W-30 oil I would be happy with where it is RPM potential wise and not try to squeeze anymore RPM out of it. Use mostly stock/OEM type of valvetrain parts (long duration is fine, just avoid high lift) to keep it alive.
2. Always use smoothing:0 for examining this type of data
Reading the graph:
your engine's VE begins to fall after 5k. It has a strong torque curve that looks like a fun street car. I feel that you are missing alot of torque from 2400 to 3600 because your exhaust system is too large perhaps, or you have other "largish" ports somewhere slowing down the velocity of gasses at those rpm. If the engine has an OEM bearing and you are using 10W-30 oil I would be happy with where it is RPM potential wise and not try to squeeze anymore RPM out of it. Use mostly stock/OEM type of valvetrain parts (long duration is fine, just avoid high lift) to keep it alive.
