pinks all out?
01-10-2009, 11:15 AM
#3
Launching!
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01-10-2009, 11:19 AM
#5
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maybe ill be able to make it to one i really would lik to try for this since i didnt get to last year and ill be able to have a chance since my goal is for the average times they pick
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01-11-2009, 09:12 AM
#10
I wouldn't assume that 9.9 is the speed they're gonna pick, you're as likly to get picked running 10.50 as you are 9.50. That speed range is usually picked because there's the highest # of cars in that range, and generally speaking, the cars are clean and the drivers usually have a pretty good idea what they're doing.
Slow class like 11.90 you could get alot mroe breakages becuase they're not really built up cars, drivers are alot less experienced as a general statement, faster cars then 9.50 are usually less plentiful, you start lookign at 9.0 and faster it's hard to get 16 that are close togehter.
Whatever you decide to do, make sure the car can REPEAT, do not assume you will have time to change a bottle or any of that, because believe me when I say I've been there, and you aren't gonan have the time you think.
My advise, when you make your qualifying passes, do it with the car at full temp, because when you start racing that's how it's gonna be, if you get picked last thing you wantto happen is the first round you go a tenth or 2 faster because your car was cool and it picked up a little, heat soak the car for the qualifying passes, and get it up to temp before the first round, it will help the consistancey.
Watch Rich's head/shoulders because he will move it right as he starts to move his hands it's easier to watch that, it will help you on his arm drop, being good on that is very important.
If you plan to run nitrous, make sure you have enough in the car to make 6 runs without running out and seeing any performance loss.
If I were to go again, I'd be putting 2 15 or 20 lb bottles in the car, have the best electric heaters on them you can, and have a guy that can plug into them with a 12 or 16 volt battery when you come back so you don't run the risk of killing the battery, ideal thing with a nitrous setup is to set it up so you can make all the runs with no bottle change.
It sucks putting the weight of 2 20 or 15 lb bottles in the car, but it's better to do that then have what happened to me happen, we got the bottle changed, but didn't open it up because it was heating up when we went to talk to the other driver, I get in the car and the seatbelt is stuck in the camera guy's wiring, so I get it out and forgot all about opening the bottle up.
If you are gonna have to change bottles, make sure that you have them heated, and the 3 people that they allow you to have with you, one guy lines you up, one guy is in charge of helping you in and out of the car, and the other guy does nothing but change the bottle and make sure it's open and ready to go.
Slow class like 11.90 you could get alot mroe breakages becuase they're not really built up cars, drivers are alot less experienced as a general statement, faster cars then 9.50 are usually less plentiful, you start lookign at 9.0 and faster it's hard to get 16 that are close togehter.
Whatever you decide to do, make sure the car can REPEAT, do not assume you will have time to change a bottle or any of that, because believe me when I say I've been there, and you aren't gonan have the time you think.
My advise, when you make your qualifying passes, do it with the car at full temp, because when you start racing that's how it's gonna be, if you get picked last thing you wantto happen is the first round you go a tenth or 2 faster because your car was cool and it picked up a little, heat soak the car for the qualifying passes, and get it up to temp before the first round, it will help the consistancey.
Watch Rich's head/shoulders because he will move it right as he starts to move his hands it's easier to watch that, it will help you on his arm drop, being good on that is very important.
If you plan to run nitrous, make sure you have enough in the car to make 6 runs without running out and seeing any performance loss.
If I were to go again, I'd be putting 2 15 or 20 lb bottles in the car, have the best electric heaters on them you can, and have a guy that can plug into them with a 12 or 16 volt battery when you come back so you don't run the risk of killing the battery, ideal thing with a nitrous setup is to set it up so you can make all the runs with no bottle change.
It sucks putting the weight of 2 20 or 15 lb bottles in the car, but it's better to do that then have what happened to me happen, we got the bottle changed, but didn't open it up because it was heating up when we went to talk to the other driver, I get in the car and the seatbelt is stuck in the camera guy's wiring, so I get it out and forgot all about opening the bottle up.
If you are gonna have to change bottles, make sure that you have them heated, and the 3 people that they allow you to have with you, one guy lines you up, one guy is in charge of helping you in and out of the car, and the other guy does nothing but change the bottle and make sure it's open and ready to go.
01-11-2009, 09:26 AM
#12
If they were going to etown again, the only thing I'd be doing to my sled, is putting a set of valve springs on it, a new set of tires, and buying a dual bottle bracket and 2 20 lb nitrous bottles.
I was considering trying to go back to MIR, but the liklyhood of getting picked 3 years in a row... proabbly a better chance of getting struck by lightening, winning the powerball, stuff like that so I'm gonna pass this year, and if the car doesn't sell I'll be back to work on it around september and should be ready for spring 2010. If it sells, then I have another car lined up that I'm gonna snag, and get started on.
I was considering trying to go back to MIR, but the liklyhood of getting picked 3 years in a row... proabbly a better chance of getting struck by lightening, winning the powerball, stuff like that so I'm gonna pass this year, and if the car doesn't sell I'll be back to work on it around september and should be ready for spring 2010. If it sells, then I have another car lined up that I'm gonna snag, and get started on.
01-11-2009, 10:03 AM
#13
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I wouldn't assume that 9.9 is the speed they're gonna pick, you're as likly to get picked running 10.50 as you are 9.50. That speed range is usually picked because there's the highest # of cars in that range, and generally speaking, the cars are clean and the drivers usually have a pretty good idea what they're doing.
Slow class like 11.90 you could get alot mroe breakages becuase they're not really built up cars, drivers are alot less experienced as a general statement, faster cars then 9.50 are usually less plentiful, you start lookign at 9.0 and faster it's hard to get 16 that are close togehter.
Whatever you decide to do, make sure the car can REPEAT, do not assume you will have time to change a bottle or any of that, because believe me when I say I've been there, and you aren't gonan have the time you think.
My advise, when you make your qualifying passes, do it with the car at full temp, because when you start racing that's how it's gonna be, if you get picked last thing you wantto happen is the first round you go a tenth or 2 faster because your car was cool and it picked up a little, heat soak the car for the qualifying passes, and get it up to temp before the first round, it will help the consistancey.
Watch Rich's head/shoulders because he will move it right as he starts to move his hands it's easier to watch that, it will help you on his arm drop, being good on that is very important.
If you plan to run nitrous, make sure you have enough in the car to make 6 runs without running out and seeing any performance loss.
If I were to go again, I'd be putting 2 15 or 20 lb bottles in the car, have the best electric heaters on them you can, and have a guy that can plug into them with a 12 or 16 volt battery when you come back so you don't run the risk of killing the battery, ideal thing with a nitrous setup is to set it up so you can make all the runs with no bottle change.
It sucks putting the weight of 2 20 or 15 lb bottles in the car, but it's better to do that then have what happened to me happen, we got the bottle changed, but didn't open it up because it was heating up when we went to talk to the other driver, I get in the car and the seatbelt is stuck in the camera guy's wiring, so I get it out and forgot all about opening the bottle up.
If you are gonna have to change bottles, make sure that you have them heated, and the 3 people that they allow you to have with you, one guy lines you up, one guy is in charge of helping you in and out of the car, and the other guy does nothing but change the bottle and make sure it's open and ready to go.
Slow class like 11.90 you could get alot mroe breakages becuase they're not really built up cars, drivers are alot less experienced as a general statement, faster cars then 9.50 are usually less plentiful, you start lookign at 9.0 and faster it's hard to get 16 that are close togehter.
Whatever you decide to do, make sure the car can REPEAT, do not assume you will have time to change a bottle or any of that, because believe me when I say I've been there, and you aren't gonan have the time you think.
My advise, when you make your qualifying passes, do it with the car at full temp, because when you start racing that's how it's gonna be, if you get picked last thing you wantto happen is the first round you go a tenth or 2 faster because your car was cool and it picked up a little, heat soak the car for the qualifying passes, and get it up to temp before the first round, it will help the consistancey.
Watch Rich's head/shoulders because he will move it right as he starts to move his hands it's easier to watch that, it will help you on his arm drop, being good on that is very important.
If you plan to run nitrous, make sure you have enough in the car to make 6 runs without running out and seeing any performance loss.
If I were to go again, I'd be putting 2 15 or 20 lb bottles in the car, have the best electric heaters on them you can, and have a guy that can plug into them with a 12 or 16 volt battery when you come back so you don't run the risk of killing the battery, ideal thing with a nitrous setup is to set it up so you can make all the runs with no bottle change.
It sucks putting the weight of 2 20 or 15 lb bottles in the car, but it's better to do that then have what happened to me happen, we got the bottle changed, but didn't open it up because it was heating up when we went to talk to the other driver, I get in the car and the seatbelt is stuck in the camera guy's wiring, so I get it out and forgot all about opening the bottle up.
If you are gonna have to change bottles, make sure that you have them heated, and the 3 people that they allow you to have with you, one guy lines you up, one guy is in charge of helping you in and out of the car, and the other guy does nothing but change the bottle and make sure it's open and ready to go.
01-11-2009, 11:26 AM
#16
If they were going to etown again, the only thing I'd be doing to my sled, is putting a set of valve springs on it, a new set of tires, and buying a dual bottle bracket and 2 20 lb nitrous bottles.
I was considering trying to go back to MIR, but the liklyhood of getting picked 3 years in a row... proabbly a better chance of getting struck by lightening, winning the powerball, stuff like that so I'm gonna pass this year, and if the car doesn't sell I'll be back to work on it around september and should be ready for spring 2010. If it sells, then I have another car lined up that I'm gonna snag, and get started on.
I was considering trying to go back to MIR, but the liklyhood of getting picked 3 years in a row... proabbly a better chance of getting struck by lightening, winning the powerball, stuff like that so I'm gonna pass this year, and if the car doesn't sell I'll be back to work on it around september and should be ready for spring 2010. If it sells, then I have another car lined up that I'm gonna snag, and get started on.
What do you have your eye on to replace it?
01-11-2009, 03:23 PM
#17
Car is for sale.
I know where there's a clean 98 V6 hardtop firebird, nothing ever really done to it, it's really clean and I can snag it for about 2 grand, it would give me a clean slate to send to a fab guy to have a 25.5 cert done on and do alot of things differently then I did with this car, making it a little lighter, and a little better race car.
Problem is, 1/2 of what I did with this car was meant so I could drive it still if I wanted to, but now that I'm at the point that I have no intrest in that anymore, I find myself redoing/undoing stuff I already spent $ on... in the long run I would probably be better off with a V6 car to start on, if I could get the 25 grand for mine I'm asking (more if they want all the extra parts) it would be enough to get the whole chassis done and be ready to drop a motor/tranny in, and the $ it would cost me to build another motor/tranny would be less then what I am looking at spending on this car to get it where I want it.
I know where there's a clean 98 V6 hardtop firebird, nothing ever really done to it, it's really clean and I can snag it for about 2 grand, it would give me a clean slate to send to a fab guy to have a 25.5 cert done on and do alot of things differently then I did with this car, making it a little lighter, and a little better race car.
Problem is, 1/2 of what I did with this car was meant so I could drive it still if I wanted to, but now that I'm at the point that I have no intrest in that anymore, I find myself redoing/undoing stuff I already spent $ on... in the long run I would probably be better off with a V6 car to start on, if I could get the 25 grand for mine I'm asking (more if they want all the extra parts) it would be enough to get the whole chassis done and be ready to drop a motor/tranny in, and the $ it would cost me to build another motor/tranny would be less then what I am looking at spending on this car to get it where I want it.
01-11-2009, 03:29 PM
#19
If it sells, but at this point I'm questioning if that's gonna happen.
The build thread will be consistant of some pictures of what I start with, the chassis when that's done and that's about it. I'm gonna be a little hush hush on the power combo on the next car because I have a couple people I want to really give it to.
The build thread will be consistant of some pictures of what I start with, the chassis when that's done and that's about it. I'm gonna be a little hush hush on the power combo on the next car because I have a couple people I want to really give it to.
01-11-2009, 03:45 PM
#20
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If it sells, but at this point I'm questioning if that's gonna happen.
The build thread will be consistant of some pictures of what I start with, the chassis when that's done and that's about it. I'm gonna be a little hush hush on the power combo on the next car because I have a couple people I want to really give it to.
The build thread will be consistant of some pictures of what I start with, the chassis when that's done and that's about it. I'm gonna be a little hush hush on the power combo on the next car because I have a couple people I want to really give it to.