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Old 04-25-2010, 01:37 PM
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Default Clutch Questions?

While taking my son to Sonic to get milkshakes my 10 y/o son asked what a holeshot was. Being excited to show him I attempted to power brake it instead for the extra smoke. Instead of the tires smoking my clutch did.

So the Car is my 2002 T/A 'vert 68k miles 100% stock paper filter.

The most I might ever mod it would be basic bolt-ons, which at this time I have no intentions of doing.

I am in the middle of buying a house so money is an issue.

Is it a possibilty that its the hydraulics(sp) or is it more than likely the clutch?

if it is the clutch what should I have replaced and what is a good clutch.

My brother has a LS7 clutch in his 05 GTO and loves it. But another guy took a dump on the LS7 saying it was junk.

Also whats a good price for a clutch job in my area?

Thanks alot in advance.
J
Old 04-25-2010, 02:52 PM
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In drag racing, a "holeshot" refers to a victory in which a driver runs a quicker elapsed time (E.T.), but loses the race due to a slower reaction time at the start.
Old 04-25-2010, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Hard Core Z28
In drag racing, a "holeshot" refers to a victory in which a driver runs a quicker elapsed time (E.T.), but loses the race due to a slower reaction time at the start.
Thanks that was helpful
Old 04-25-2010, 03:19 PM
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I run a Centerforce dual friction 12" corvette in mine - from Summit for 400 bucks. Replace your slave cylinder while your there. The clutch chattered for 500 miles - which is exactly what the paperwork said it would do. Its been grabbin good for 10k+ miles now and feels slightly stiffer than stock but grabs 200% better.
I am not sure about your area but labor should range from 275-400 depending on labor rate.
Hope this helps.
Old 04-25-2010, 03:31 PM
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Thanks Intimidator. What up with the slave cyl, is it a wear item or does it just need to be upgraded to the new clutch?
Old 04-25-2010, 07:04 PM
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I would suggest a ls7 clutch setup. The ls7 clutch will drive like stock and hold better than your stock clutch. No need to get an aftermarket clutch if you a only planning on boltons.Also do the slave cylinder. It is best to replace now to prevent hydraulic problems later. The slave should be no extra labor to replace during the clutch. If you wait then the trans has to be pulled again to change it.
Old 04-25-2010, 08:06 PM
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go ls7, they are great for driving. wish i did one instead of my spec
Old 04-25-2010, 08:44 PM
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Should I get the slave or master cylinder done as well?
Old 04-25-2010, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 7998
Thanks for the feedback guys. Should I get the slave or master cylinder done as well?
If you want to spend the $$$ get a Tick Master, I would also do the slave when you do the clutch.
Old 04-25-2010, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DiabloFormula
If you want to spend the $$$ get a Tick Master, I would also do the slave when you do the clutch.
But whats the benefit of a master cyl or the Slave.
Thanks Diablo
Old 04-25-2010, 11:38 PM
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The slave is a must because it's a wear item. I didn't change my master, don't think you need to either. I'm very happy with my LS7 clutch.

SDPC has free shipping on clutches through the end of april:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...ches-sdpc.html

I believe this is the LS7 clutch & flywheel kit you need:
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...center/sdls7ck

You can also call SDPC to ask them about it.
Old 04-26-2010, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 7998
But whats the benefit of a master cyl or the Slave.
Thanks Diablo
The tick is just a better made master over the OEM, the other optyion is the drill mod on your stock master.
Old 04-26-2010, 02:10 PM
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is your clutch slipping now under normal daily driving?...if not then dont replace it
i would get a ls6 clutch set up like what you have in there now which will be fine and the pedal pressure will be just like it is now. Some like ls7 clutches some have issues with them with no reason behind it.
the slave and master..well if there isnt a problem then i dont see the need to do anything there personally, if your car was a pre 2001 then i would upgrade the hydralics(master and slave)

ls6 clutch kit is what you should get if your current clutch is slipping
Old 04-26-2010, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by thechef
is your clutch slipping now under normal daily driving?...if not then dont replace it
i would get a ls6 clutch set up like what you have in there now which will be fine and the pedal pressure will be just like it is now. Some like ls7 clutches some have issues with them with no reason behind it.
the slave and master..well if there isnt a problem then i dont see the need to do anything there personally, if your car was a pre 2001 then i would upgrade the hydralics(master and slave)

ls6 clutch kit is what you should get if your current clutch is slipping
To tell ya the truth I haven't driven it since then about 3 weeks ago.

Is there an advantage to getting the LS6 as opposed to the LS7?
Old 04-26-2010, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 7998
To tell ya the truth I haven't driven it since then about 3 weeks ago.

Is there an advantage to getting the LS6 as opposed to the LS7?
I got your PM... I would just get an LS7 with a new slave and you should be good to go. I wouldnt change the master.
Old 04-26-2010, 04:55 PM
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Ok I took it out for a ride(Thanks Chef) and could only get it to slip once by dropping the clutch at 5000rpms in 6th gear @ 40mph and even then it caught and clunked my drivetrain. Also it didn't smell when I got back. Now it was only a 15 minute ride but it held.

I'm sure the clutch isn't a 100% nor would I try to power brake it again, but hopefully I can get a little longer out of it.

Could it be the hydraulics? or a combo of worn clutch and hydraulics?
Old 04-26-2010, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 7998
Ok I took it out for a ride(Thanks Chef) and could only get it to slip once by dropping the clutch at 5000rpms in 6th gear @ 40mph and even then it caught and clunked my drivetrain. Also it didn't smell when I got back. Now it was only a 15 minute ride but it held.

I'm sure the clutch isn't a 100% nor would I try to power brake it again, but hopefully I can get a little longer out of it.

Could it be the hydraulics? or a combo of worn clutch and hydraulics?


Its probably a combo. I would just drive it until it gets bad.( as long as its not your daily)
Old 04-26-2010, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Frans96SS
Its probably a combo. I would just drive it until it gets bad.( as long as its not your daily)
Ya I just want to get past closing. I assume your gonna PM me how much that LS7 will run me? And when are you gonna update your progress on the Challenger R/T? Dying to what can be done with one of those.
Old 04-26-2010, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 7998
Ya I just want to get past closing. I assume your gonna PM me how much that LS7 will run me? And when are you gonna update your progress on the Challenger R/T? Dying to what can be done with one of those.
The challenger actually went 12.2 at 116 at the track on friday night on the stock tires haha. I couldnt believe it. We have a few more parts we will throw at it to get a low 11 out of it. It still has T-Tags on it haha
Old 05-01-2010, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Frans96SS
The challenger actually went 12.2 at 116 at the track on friday night on the stock tires haha. I couldnt believe it. We have a few more parts we will throw at it to get a low 11 out of it. It still has T-Tags on it haha
I think I ran that car last night.. How much is it spraying??



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