Update on the transam
02-26-2014, 06:51 PM
#81
If you're not planning on spinning the blower hard, you might be dissapointed in it's performance. What will happen is, since it takes x amount of power to spin the blower, you actually make less power till you start making boost with it, enough to increase the power to above the break even point of spinning the blower, the sweet spot so to say.
So if you only plan to make 8psi at X,XXX rpm, it's going to be sluggish below that. It's like putting a giant turbo on a 4 cylinder and limiting it to 8psi.
Not telling you what to do, but chances are, you're going to want to push it to higher psi levels than 8psi.
So if you only plan to make 8psi at X,XXX rpm, it's going to be sluggish below that. It's like putting a giant turbo on a 4 cylinder and limiting it to 8psi.
Not telling you what to do, but chances are, you're going to want to push it to higher psi levels than 8psi.
02-26-2014, 07:26 PM
#82
I get what your saying but with this being a stock motor with 100k on the clock don't want to really push it. Wanted to get this part out of the way so I could drive it till I get enough to go to a 427 for boost. With the new motor it should be well into its normal operating range.
Only reason I went with 8 psi cause I seem to remember after that tends to be iffy on a ls1. That being said i had my twinturbo at 9 psi and that's a lot harder then a s/c now that I think about it lol.
Only reason I went with 8 psi cause I seem to remember after that tends to be iffy on a ls1. That being said i had my twinturbo at 9 psi and that's a lot harder then a s/c now that I think about it lol.
03-06-2014, 04:16 PM
#84
Got my aster bracket lastnight. Seems the water pump comes with a thermostat. I bought one already so now I have a spare lol.
Also picked up my crank pulley puller and a 3/4 torque wrench since my current is more a prybar then a torque wrench lol
Also picked up my crank pulley puller and a 3/4 torque wrench since my current is more a prybar then a torque wrench lol
03-10-2014, 06:43 AM
#85
very similar set up to what I will be running this year, I am also on a stock bottom end but I had a chance to upgrade from a d1 to an f1a so I took it, going to keep the boost around 10lbs for now until I can build a new motor, then I will crank it up and let it eat. Good luck with the build, you will love the procharger!
03-10-2014, 06:38 PM
#91
Timing is tricky. Increasing timing increases cylinder pressure, which is torque, but it also leads to detonation, and quickly. Typically it is accepted to run in the low to mid teens, but some push higher. Its like nitrous, some can get away with a 100 shot, others seem to be able to push 150 to 200.
Personally, I'd start at 13 to 14 degrees and see how the car drives.
Personally, I'd start at 13 to 14 degrees and see how the car drives.
04-27-2014, 07:38 PM
#99
Well wanted to install my fuel rails today so took off the stocks noticed a bracket that was in the back of the fuel rail. Needless to say it was on the intake bolts so off the intake goes. While taking it out broke the oil pressure switch in the back behind the intake.
Got the new intake all ready and made the crossover line for the fuel rails.
Now to get a oil pressure switch and install the ls6 intake and finish up the fuel system install.
Got the new intake all ready and made the crossover line for the fuel rails.
Now to get a oil pressure switch and install the ls6 intake and finish up the fuel system install.
05-03-2014, 04:22 PM
#100
Cars running again
. Had the fuel pressure set to high and it would start and die. Then the rains came just as I was going to pull out of the garage for a drive:/.
Need to drive it home and change the oil since I think I might have washed the cylinders with fuel.
. Had the fuel pressure set to high and it would start and die. Then the rains came just as I was going to pull out of the garage for a drive:/.Need to drive it home and change the oil since I think I might have washed the cylinders with fuel.