Kenny H

I don't need incredible brakes but the stocker rotors are warped. Brakes on these cars can get very expensive and I'm not going to be autocrossing etc but I don't want complete junk either.

I came across this link and it seems like an incredible deal.

What do you guys think?

Keep in mind this car will be lucky to see 3000 miles a year so if I get 10k out of a set of brakes that will last me a long time.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/880145-new-pbt-special-cryotech-rotors-hawk-hps-pads-299-00-plus-shipping.html

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

Seems like a really good deal. HPS seem to be the most popular pads for F bodies, that's what I plan on getting when I need pads. Those alone would run around $120-$130 for front and rear. For rotors I was going to use Duralast because they have excellent resistence to warping and are priced right. I'm not familiar with the cryo treatment they are advertising. I do know that drilling and slotting rotors is useless at best except for appearance's sake, read the sticky in the brake forum for more info.

motoo344

iTrader: (19)

I would be interested in seeing other peoples setups. I drive about 5k, my car has 94k miles on it and I noticed its been taking me longer to stop and it vibrates at higher speeds when trying to slow down.

SuperSport4life

iTrader: (7)

Your rotors are warped you need to cut them or replace them. Might want to check the pads also if they are worn down might as well change them also...

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

I had big issues with warping/cracking the stock rotors...I tried the powerslots and they worked well for me and multiple stops from 130mph at the track

Mike_LS1

For the street I've had good results with HPS pads and believe it or not fresh Raybestos promold rotors. The Brembos are close in price too. Steel braided lines give a nice improvement in feel and feedback while you're at it.

JS

iTrader: (4)

Powerslots and Raybestos QS pads all around
Stoppd my car repeatedly from 124 mph and no warping....

Kenny H

Your Z28 is set-up pretty much exactly the way I want to set mine up. How does it ride with the springs/Konis? While mine isn't a daily driver, I do want to be able to take it from NC to NJ a couple times a year, and take it to Myrtle Beach (3+ hrs) without having to deal with my wife bitching about it. Is the ride still decent?

Your car looks great, I wanted a white Z but couldn't find one at a decent price.

Mr. B

iTrader: (1)

Those are good brakes! I've used them..

jason02Z

iTrader: (10)

Z06 swap for the fronts and the good pads and rotor for the rear?

ws6on19s

iTrader: (4)

I had power stops front and rear for about 50k miles good rotors but they did crack after a few years , running baer eradispeed now so far so good

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

Wow, that's a great price. When I did the brakes a few years ago, it cost me about $250 for 4 Autozone Aimco rotors and replacement GM pads...maybe I'll get in on those for $299. I could probably use new brakes again.

WS6 John

iTrader: (2)

I would go with the Brembo blanks. Tirerack has them for $55 each for fronts.
One of the sponsors (rotorsonline.com) on here while cryogenically treat the brembo blanks for reasonable $ as well.

I would stay away from the drilled rotors. They seem to always form small cracks around the holes.

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

Read here for more good brake info. Pay attention to the part about rotors if you plan to get drilled and/or slotted rotors.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/353903-brake-faq.html

VIP1

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5

Jmagliola

iTrader: (1)

I've been through 5 sets of duralast (Autozone Lifetime warr) and each of them warped