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hey guys i have a 1989 nissan 240sx with a 2001 ls1 swap with PRC 5.3 heads and the MS3 cam and i had the car dyno tuned a few months ago and the tune sucks really bad. i would like to get the car re tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. is there anyone that can do WOT and part throttle tunes in the Orlando area?
Location: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
There are a bunch of tuners in Florida, do a search and you'll find numerous threads on them.
I've had both my LS-powered vehicles tuned by Jeremy Formato at Faster Proms. He travels and does great work.
__________________ 1970 Nova SS Clone: a street/strip ride with a bad whistle... 2000 Formula: stock long block, trans and rear end, a few bolt-ons with a Jeremy Formato tune, still slow 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 ECSB 5.3: Magnaflow CB, K&N CAI, Formato tune
Check out pictures and info: www.fquick.com/Villain281H
Videos here: www.youtube.com/user/Villain281H
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I don't send people on vacation often. But when I do, it's for 3 months minimum (in the best Dos equis voice possible)
__________________ GM High Tech Cover Car May '09|High Performance Pontiac Cover Car July '12|The Complete Guide to Turbocharging the LS1 Engine" Cover Car
98 TA|Erik Koenig built 383|T76GTS turbo kit|Built T56|3800+LB Real Street Car| 10.6@132 1.5x 60' at 8psi...Rowing Gears Now NA again!
It depends on your definition of dyno tune. If all you are doing is wide open throttle runs, then no a dyno tune is not right.
When I do a "full chassis dyno tune" as I like to call it, I start with the start up and idle to see what is needed and make necessary changes there and to verify that everything is good mechanically as well as the with PCM and sensors. From there I check the cruise range of the RPM band while "cruising" on the dyno to very the same again. One has to remember that there are several items that need to be addressed during idle and cruise that if left alone can adversly affect wide open throttle.
From there once everything is done or very close I can start on wide open throttle and still make minor changes as needed for idle and cruise. After all is done then a road test is next to verify everything. Sometimes small changes are needed there also.
I am not a big believer in a street tune in that to get tune done well you need to exceed the speed limit several times to get it done. Not tuning driveability on the street is cool.
Also, when tuning on the dyno you can actually see that the car is "happy" with a change by the HP gains and/or losses. If you are on the street and using a wideband, you may have the A/F set dead on for what you think the car wants, but it could be a different story on the dyno and actually need more or less fuel and timing to hit the sweet spot.
thanks it does, i had my car tuned a while ago on a dyno by another florida tuner/shop, and they missed some biggies as far as letting me know what was going on with the car, and now with some new mods, i think it is about time to have it rectified, just not sure if i can justify throwing down the money to get it done yet, thanks
Ive had a few cars tuned by Mike. He has always been fair and got me up and running. I will be bringing him my new project soon.
__________________ current cars
98 White SS clone. was 9s now back to bolt on driver
old cars gone
2013 5.0 auto full bolt ons 175 10.5 @ 126, 2012 GT500 21 psi 800hp 10.6 @ 136, 00 Blk hawk 11.3's ? NA, 02 SS NBM408 glide 9 inch 10.3's NA, 99 FRC vette tt solid axle 850 rwhp on 13 psi, up to 23 psi EST 1200 RWHP no dyno or track .06 ZO6 11.5's, 03 ZO6 cam only 11.4's, 98 Formula built 6 speed 9.7's@144
Another vote for Mike! Awesome guy with great work ethic!
__________________ 1999 TA WS6 on pump gas - P1SC (8 psi), FMIC, Alky Control Kit, LS1 w/214/224 cam, TSP 1 7/8 headers with ORY, Corsa exhaust, TH-400 (4K PTC Converter), Moser 12 bolt (3.73), Wolfe CM 6 point Roll Bar. Best 1/4 mile 10.29@129 w/1.60 sixty ft.
2004 Mustang Cobra/Screaming Yellow-Just an Eaton car...