98goldws6

iTrader: (33)

I'm doing a 6l iron block build. I plan on running a single turbo setup but have a lot of questions because i'm new to the whole forced induction route. I want some input on what crank to run as well as pistons, heads, and what compression ratio i should be at. It is still a street driven car. I would like to make around 800 range if not more. What would be a good turbo for that? And can't forget about fuel setups? Thanks Any help is appreciated. I've been doing research but there is so much info and so many different setups, it gets to be overwhelming.

fenix999

iTrader: (17)

stock crank is fine has been taken to 900-1000hp, get quality forged pistons, rods, and arp bolts/studs everywhere for security. Main studs, head studs, and arp2000 rod bolts and you're set. For fuel you will need two walbro 255lph pumps in tank with fuel lines, fual rails and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. Heads can be 6.0 #317 from a truck or #243 Z06 heads, or any head basically...all depends on the budget and what compression you want, and how pretty you want your setup to be. Some guys have gone 800+ hp on stock aluminum LQ9/LQ4 "truck" heads (#317 6.0L). Same thing goes for the pistons, choose a compression that you want your motor to be at... i'd recommend anywhere from 8.5:1 to 9.5:1 depending on the final setup (wont matter with race gas, but will matter if you go with lots of boost on pump which you probably will for 800hp, etc etc). The turbocharger you should be looking for is the biggest T4 turbo you can find which is probably a 76m or 78mm or Precision PTE88....OR get a correctly sized T6 turbocharger with good enough specs to feed you motor and get 800hp. A big T6 turbo that will get you there are units such as some of the Borg Warner/Turbonetics/Precision/Garrett units or you can get a custom built turbo from Forced Inductions, which is a sponsor to the right. They know their stuff and will get you heading in the right direction real quick---> Prepare to spend some cash. good luck

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well do you want a 408 like me. Then you need crank. If you want 370 you can stay with stock crank that saves about a thousand bucks and the stock 6.0 cranks have taken some big power.

Pistons well running wisecos. Also run them in my talon.
Intake ls6 works for cheap. Fast is a bit overkill and mostly running one so can add direct port nitrous which is mostly for car shows and intimidation when lift the hood.
Heads well if you are on a budget the 6.0 heads can work pretty good. I wanted thicker deck so went up to the 225s.If you want a bit more bottom then afr 205s are nice too. I have lots of bottom with the 408 so don't really need more.

You have fast 78 might want to upgrade to 90. You will hear some guys saying fast don't hold boost but they are good to about 20psi it seems and that should get 800rwhp with the right turbo. Might get 800 at maybe 15psi.

Cam well your lsa looks pretty low. I run lingenfelter gt7 I don't like lope and its easy to tune. I went with 1.8 to get more lift my lift is around 590. Did'nt want to go much past 600 lift . Don't like to change out valve springs too often and was worried about valve float under boost. Have afr 8019 so good for .650 lift supposedly but think thats more an NA rating.
You have those patriot heads you could try them but might want to sell the cam and heads and get more turbo friendly cam and thick deck heads like afr or trick flo.

Compression I like 9.5 its fine with alc injection. 8.5 is more a track compression rating .9.0 is a nice middle ground.


Fuel system ..to get to 800 rwhp you will need more than just a single intank.
I am going to Lonnies dual intank setup. Injectors well I started with 60s but likely need to go a bit bigger to maybe 79 think thats limit high impedence or maybe some 96 low but if you are going to run e85 then might need way way bigger like 160s.We have no e85 where I live so just run pump 94 and alc injection system.

Turbo well I run aps twins ,some single guys can chime in ..88mm or 91 seem popular.You have a tex triple so should be good for power. I am going to flt stage 5 4l80e with yank py 3400 stall in spring.My tex twin has been ok but sick of standards. I am going to s60 rear end with 3.54 gears.

So not sure what else can tell you. I have only had my combo running for about three weeks before had to put car away for winter.It was much too scary to drive it with even break in type power. A built 408 is pretty powerful on its own likely giving 550 engine hp or so no boost. Add in the boost and well lets just say my car is traction limited not power limited. I am going to go to wider wheels and run likely et street radials or m and h street radials..hearing nittos don't work so good at these power levels. Also might add this racelogic variable traction control system that has been used in some real high power cars. Its pricey but if it works then should be worth it.

Be warned that a true 800rwhp car is a freakin beast on the street. Heck a 600 rwhp car is a freaking beast especially when its got monster torque like a 408 or bigger.
I was going to go 427 but really no need pretty darn happy with the 408. 370 even is lots and you save a grand or so.Your choice.I would put in some decent forged rods.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

stick with the 370, rebuild with stock crank, compstar rods and diamond pistons or mahle pistons. Your heads will be fine, i like to stay in the 9.5:1 compression area and this will save you alot of cash. In fact, everything else you have i would just run. Sure the cam might not be perfect but .5lb boost can make up for that with way less cash. I ran a 224/226-112 on mine and i loved it, made WAY more power/tq than the ZO6 cam i tried.
For fuel, go with twin intanks and 79# injectors/rails FPR and stock lines. Meth injection as well. This will go to your power goals easy.
Turbo, again dont get too extravagant, go with a Borg Warner S480, its perfect for a street car.
Just for reference I ran a BW S475 on a stock 6.0L longblock with the cam i listed at 12-14psi and was making around 600whp, with a very wide curve and alot of tq. Just the ported heads will take that up almost another 100whp.

98goldws6

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for all the great info guys! So far i got the 6liter iron block, all arp studs and bolts and callies 6.125" hbeam rods. I have already sold the topend package in my signature. I'm going with all new stuff. I was thinking about afr heads, fast 92/92 and a forged crank. Either way I have to get a crank so I figured I would get a forged one. As far as life goes, which will last longer, a stock crank or forged?
Still not sure on what pistons I want. Thanks again

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

As was said stock 6.0 cranks have gone pretty far beyond your power goals. The main reason to go forged is to build a 408 or bigger.I wouldn't go much bigger on a 6.0 to say 427 as think the walls get too thin for FI. Another reason I stayed at 408. Forged crank should be good for mid 1000s in power. talking engine hp not rwhp .You can do a search on this forum for boosted lists..like search boosted list 2006. They are in there but not stickied.
They give you combos to check out and time slips ,dyno numbers..
Sounds like you are not worrying about saving every dime. If you aren't then go fully forged to a 408 might as well and it can't hurt to run the afr 225s or 205s or trick flos.
Cams well everyone has an opinion on turbo cams. So like normal split some like no split some reverse split..some like low lsas most like higher lsas.
Not sure why poster found he got a lot better power or whatever with his low lsa cam. Not sure if he actually dynoed or just went from seat of the pants feeling the butt dyno.

I figured lingenfelter knew a few things about building streetable turbo cars so just ordered the cam they use in almost all their turbo builds. It is very similar to z06 cam. But there are some different z06 cams. As said I bumped it up with 1.8 which are fine with it.
Most pick cams according to what they want in terms of sound..higher lsa have less and less lope for instance. Some like high lift but I don't like to have to change out valve springs every 20,000 miles its no fun on f body. And you risk valve float if the springs can't handle things under boost. So like to leave more headroom on the lift and spring capabilities.
Duration well as said some think reverse split is best, some like normal split like mine some like no split. Seems any cam can of course make power with turbo but how much better one really is over another is a bit debatable. I used to have a dyno ls1 book with tons of combos. It showed that different cams did increase power in turbo builds maybe allowing less boost to make same power.Lots of guys like epp cams for boost and I found a nice one on speed inc that looked nice but was technically their supercharged cam.It was like 117lsa with around 600 lift and a pretty tight normal split like 224/230. I would likely have tried that one out. Epp has one with a bit more lope at 115lsa.
My ling has a wider normal split ,not that much lift with 1.7 rockers and a huge 121 lsa.
The ling cams are very similar to z06 cams. Their old gt2-3 was used in most of their builds previous to my gt7. You can find the specs on the lingenfelter website.

396375

iTrader: (10)

I'm surprized you saw that much in just a cam change.Was that all you changed at the time?Did you track or dyno the car before or after?
Thanks

Grr

iTrader: (2)

my trap speed went up 3-4mph, and by logging hp/tq in my HP Tuners, yes its not accurate but is consistant, it showed huge gains. I had the bigger cam from a previous build so i threw it in and loved it. also after more tuning i was able to get that to a 8-9mph gain because i was able to add a bunch of timing for some reason