z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

I was just debating on weather to build my custom twin kit out of mild steel or stainless. I absolutely hate rust and dont want to deal with it. i am a total clean freak when it comes to my car. I am going to get the pipes jet hotted in extreme sterling. if that holds up and will not rust then that wouldn't bother me. I dont even drive the car in the rain now as it is and is always garage stored on a rug. just want to know what your opinions and thoughts were and what your expiriences with it are thanks for your help i cant decide what to do.

4SFEDZ

iTrader: (6)

do you have the ability to weld both? im doin mine in mild and getting everything coated.

prostkr

Jet hot will last for a while, but if your car ever gets in the salt....it dulls and doesn't last like it should. A good grade stainless piping set would be easier to maintain.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

does anyone know where to get the best deals on stainless mandrel bends? ive found them for 36 for 3in and 33 for 2.5. for t304 does that seem like a good deal or is there somewhere evan cheaper?

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

I used hyperformance, I built my entire hot side out of 304ss. The only part I hate about stainless it the fact that you have to back purge it which wasnt that effecitve for me. I ended up using some stuff called solarflux (type B), a little goes a long way and works pretty good. The only negative to using solar flux is that you have to wash it out when your done.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

is hyperformance the company you baught the piping from?

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Yeah.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

its a big site what section do they sell it under

99345hp

what happend with your backpurge? It will work every time if done correctly.

You need to cap all holes in the tubing first. Cut a hole for your purge line and turn on the gas to around 15. You have to wait until the oxygen content inside the tube is less than 2%. Weld up about 3/4 or so of the tubing and then vent the cap on the other end of the tube by poking a few small holes in the tape or whatever you used. Then you can finish welding it up.

I would use stainless myself not only for corrosion reasons but also because of the extreme heat turbo hotsides see. If you are making your own headers I have heard of mild steel turbo headers actually sagging due to the heat.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

yea im leaning towards just spending the money and doing stainless. this is my dream build for the car im putting together adn will never be taken off. And im not going to run a tubular header design im going to run 6.0 truck manifolds. thanks for everything so far guys.

Josh@KY-Turbo

iTrader: (120)

I have never seen Mild steel headers Sagging on a turbo setup. Wont say it hasnt happened, but I have been arounf the block on the turbo game and have bever seen that happen.

I like Mild Steel. have it coated and roll with it. If you can TIG or have a MIG and some TRI mix gas go with the stainless. If you TIG it Solarflux (type B) is the ****.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

is there anyway to know how many bends you will need or do u just buy a bunch and see where that takes you.

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Alot of my crossover is so short that the tape would melt, burn, or just make a mess. Also the hose would start to melt, the peices were so short there was just no getting arround it or far enough away from the heat. Another reason is a 35.00 container went alot further than a 60.00 bottle of argon (for me).

themachasy

iTrader: (5)

Ace Stainless Supply has good prices on small sch 40 bends for headers, and if you look up Columbia River Mandrel Bending or Racing Solutions on google, you'll find one of the cheapest places I've found for mandrel bends.

RICE ETR

iTrader: (3)

I don't have the know-how or equipment to weld SS so I went with 16ga Mild tubing from Jegs/Summit/JC Whitney because it is cheap and easy to weld with my MIG. I figure I will modify or upgrade the kit before it needs replacing due to corrosion. Some of the tubing on my kit has been on there for almost 4 years and no problems. I painted then wrapped the hot side.
Now that I say all this, I hope I didn't just jinx myself and my turbo doesn't fall off going down the track next season.

B18CYA

iTrader: (17)

I have bought tons from these guys mild and stainless. Cheapest I've found

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

I am using a mild steel 1/2 in thick header flange with 2in 304L sch 40 90 degree for my primairy tube. There 2in and the flange holes are 2.020 in as well.

Just called up Columbia River and got the last hard peice to find. The T6 transion to the flange.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

thanks for all the responses guys. I'm just going to spend the extra money and go stainless just for a piece of mind and then have it coated. Should i order just all 180 degree bends for now since there is every angle you could want in a U bend. I ask b'c they are having a sale if you buy 10 of them. i'm sure i need 3 inch for my down pipes and 2.5 inch for my turbo feeds and 2.5 for the intercooler piping and i was going to use 4 inch for my charge pipe from my intercooler to my throttle body. But im still not sure what size piping is best for the waste gate piping. i will be running thew waste gate exhaust back into the down pipe and be using a 44mm waste gate on either side. thanks

B18CYA

iTrader: (17)

you might want to get some 90's also a lot of time you can get a tighter radius bend in 90 degrees


not 100% sure of your setup but my truck manifold setup consists of 2.5" hot side 3" charge pipes and 4" dp

check the sticky on truck manifold setups tons of good info

99345hp

solarflux works ok. It probably works better on stainless headers than on pipe. How much penetration do you get in your weld? What does the root of the weld look like?