What comp. should I go w/ on a APS TT kit? What size turbos are on the APS TT kit?
02-13-2009, 06:22 AM
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What comp. should I go w/ on a APS TT kit? What size turbos are on the APS TT kit? What comp. should I build my motor to while running the APS 427 F Body TT kit? What size turbos are on the 427 F body APS TT kit? What cam to go with this kit? The BOV are small on this kit so what is the biggest BOV i can get and where? I want the loudest one. This kit should make some good power. What kind of power to get with this kit on a 408? Where would I to get the FMIC painted or where to get it polished up? It comes from APS blk and I would like to get it polished up. Thank you.
Last edited by jeremym; 02-13-2009 at 07:46 AM.
02-13-2009, 11:16 AM
#3
What comp. should I build my motor to while running the APS 427 F Body TT kit? What size turbos are on the 427 F body APS TT kit? What cam to go with this kit? The BOV are small on this kit so what is the biggest BOV i can get and where? I want the loudest one. This kit should make some good power. What kind of power to get with this kit on a 408? Where would I to get the FMIC painted or where to get it polished up? It comes from APS blk and I would like to get it polished up. Thank you.
My builder recommended 9.5 to 1 if I run alc/meth injection all the time.
I plan to. You could go maybe 9.0 to 1 if you just want to run pump premium no alc/meth. e85 works great if you have it readily available .I don't. LIke three stations in all of Canada.Its the HOTNESS for FI cars though.8.5 is more for drag only type cars. I like a bit more compression. No big deal with the combo you are looking at likey be hitting near full power under 20psi anyway.And 1000rwhp is nuts,nuts ,nuts.
408 max power should be about 1300 engine hp. If you go to aps site they talk about the size of the turbos in terms of airflow on the site. They also have a full manual for installing the standard kit. The upgraded kit is simply higher flowing turbos with 3 inch inlets.It requires an msd starter which the standard kit doesn't.
Hp potential is basically directly related to airflow rating of the turbos. For example think the upgraded turbos are 65 pounds per minute. Times it by 10 and then by 2 so 1300 engine or like 1040 rwhp on auto at 20% loss on 1300 hp. Or 1100 or so on m6 with 15% loss. Can always run some spray on top of that many people run spray with turbos.I am going direct port as have the fast intake already.
I do kind of wish my intercooler was the original silver showing on the some of the early pics. Black is stealthy but not great looking to me. I might do the letters on mine so they stand out a bit more.I should have got the exhaust manifolds and the hot sides ceramic coated and still likely will this spring. Have to pull out turbos anyway to replace the one cracked one.
The heat shields work not but be warned they are razor sharp! And I bought expensive super high heat granatelli plug wires.
I wanted a super streetable build so went with as said 9.5 to 1. Gives more power off boost and on than 8.5 or 9.0 and no problem running it now even with no alc/meth as long as keep timing low and we have 94 octane here.
I went with lingenfelter gt7 cam very similar to z06 cams.
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
I went with yella terra 1.8 to give more lift around 590 and bit more duration.
I didn't want to go over 600 lift. I don't want to have to change out springs every 20,000 miles some some higher lift cams recommend. Pain in the butt to change out springs in the f bodies.
An ideal cam might be a bit closer split like 228/232 with maybe 590 lift and maybe 118 lsa. But whatever my cam seems to be working pretty good. No lope which I didn't want. Easy to tune for .And seems to rev out pretty good find out more on that in a few months.And ling uses this in most of their FI builds even on the bigger engines like 427 size. Very very streetable.
As noted in my sig went with afr 225 heads. They have thicker deck which can help in the pushing water department. ARP head studs. My 408 makes great power and torque from SOTP not dyno yet even off boost.
And on boost the car becomes a BEAST! Have not pushed it past 7.5 base gate boost yet. But will this coming season and have eboost2 for boost control.
For manuals you want a two step like lingenfelter makes to build boost at the line. Their gadget also has antilag features at least the newer version not sure about the older one.
Antilag and two step let you build some good boost on manual cars . I am going auto but the two step and antilag can still be useful.
You will need big fuel system of course. I am going with lonnies twin intank pump setup with bigger rails and lines of course and boost referenced reg. You will need big injectors. I got 60s to start but going up to 80s or possibly low impedence and even bigger later. You could get NASTy huge single pump Fuel setup even with custom tank. JM is selling some of his stuff in Used section. He went 9s at near 140 with his base kit on his built 402. Auto car.And only at 12psi on standard turbos.
I tune with hptuners. Going to 3 bar shortly ran maf just to break in engine and at low boost.
You need new kmember with aps kit. Bmr works fine but some are using think umi or spohn?
There is as said no difference between the kits other than the upgraded kit has the bigger turbos with the bigger inlet housings and those should not have any problems collapsing like the first standard turbo inlets did at 12psi or so.
Any other questions feel free to pm me or whatever. In general am pretty happy with my aps kit. Car is very stealthy if wanted it to be as only the intercooler neck shows you really can't see anything else when you pop the hood. I do have of course have my 1000HP liscence plate which was my engine goal hp for the kit with spray. Should be able to get that with even the standard kit and minimal or no spray. And have some nice twin turbo emblems and some 408 emblems which does sort of throw the stealth thing out the window. Besides the turbos are pretty loud when spooled up. I have electric cutout and still running stock type exhaust. The system don't come with ypipe had to buy hooker ypipe perfect fit it was ceramic coated one. I hear kooks stainless also fits. I have street pro electric cutout and b and b catback. Car is pretty quiet cutout closed but if you want to really hear the turbos just open the cutout.
The stock blow offs are pretty wimpy. First thing I did was to stop them recircing back into the inlets. I bought caps that fit perfect at home depot for table leg protectors.
I then bought turbosmart Kompact supersonics..they are pricey but like you said they are really loud! Great quality but high price but hey life isn't cheap and either are FI builds! These blow offs don't recirc they vent straight to atmosphere and are direct plug and play onto the kit. They are loud enough to wake the dead and scare old ladies off the sidewalk! LOL
02-13-2009, 11:22 AM
#4
Ok right off Aps website turbos are 65 pounds per minute
so 1300 potential engine hp. You can still get higher with nitrous on top of this.
"The highly specialized turbochargers are based upon custom Mitsubishi gasoline spec turbochargers, each with an Inconel turbine wheel, liquid cooled bearing housing (65 lbs per minute mass air flow), APS single entry 1.06 A/R external waste gate port/provision and custom APS designed and manufactured compressor housing. The result is an outstanding 1,000 WHP (Dynojet)."
Not sure exactly what a 408 iron block can take unmodified not filled or whatever.
Think mid 1500s rwhp range .Much past that you need LSX block.
But seriously 1000rwhp is more than enough for just about the most diehard speed freak. My car is already traction limited not power limited and is likely around 650rwhp at current boost levels no spray yet. I for sure am buying wider new tires either et street radials or m and h street radials possibly 315 nittos but hear conflicting stories on how they will work at 800 to 1000rwhp.
Also considering this RACE LOGIC varaible traction system. My car has no traction control. I have seen the above setups being used on cars like TT vipers with good results. Factory setup is very on/off not variable. Have it on my 96z28. It would be handy to have though depending on who is driving the car.
so 1300 potential engine hp. You can still get higher with nitrous on top of this.
"The highly specialized turbochargers are based upon custom Mitsubishi gasoline spec turbochargers, each with an Inconel turbine wheel, liquid cooled bearing housing (65 lbs per minute mass air flow), APS single entry 1.06 A/R external waste gate port/provision and custom APS designed and manufactured compressor housing. The result is an outstanding 1,000 WHP (Dynojet)."
Not sure exactly what a 408 iron block can take unmodified not filled or whatever.
Think mid 1500s rwhp range .Much past that you need LSX block.
But seriously 1000rwhp is more than enough for just about the most diehard speed freak. My car is already traction limited not power limited and is likely around 650rwhp at current boost levels no spray yet. I for sure am buying wider new tires either et street radials or m and h street radials possibly 315 nittos but hear conflicting stories on how they will work at 800 to 1000rwhp.
Also considering this RACE LOGIC varaible traction system. My car has no traction control. I have seen the above setups being used on cars like TT vipers with good results. Factory setup is very on/off not variable. Have it on my 96z28. It would be handy to have though depending on who is driving the car.
Last edited by MY99TAWS6; 02-13-2009 at 11:32 AM.
02-13-2009, 01:15 PM
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ok 99ta how many times do i need to say it TOO LONG
i want to read it but im lazy LOL J/K
im looking at some aftermarket turbos for my kit no more APS junk
and 99ta dont defend them because you had some big issuse with turbos as well as i. knowing what you know now would you by the kit again?
everything good but the turbos
i want to read it but im lazy LOL J/K
im looking at some aftermarket turbos for my kit no more APS junk
and 99ta dont defend them because you had some big issuse with turbos as well as i. knowing what you know now would you by the kit again?
everything good but the turbos
02-13-2009, 02:12 PM
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My builder recommended 9.5 to 1 if I run alc/meth injection all the time.
I plan to. You could go maybe 9.0 to 1 if you just want to run pump premium no alc/meth. e85 works great if you have it readily available .I don't. LIke three stations in all of Canada.Its the HOTNESS for FI cars though.8.5 is more for drag only type cars. I like a bit more compression. No big deal with the combo you are looking at likey be hitting near full power under 20psi anyway.And 1000rwhp is nuts,nuts ,nuts.
408 max power should be about 1300 engine hp. If you go to aps site they talk about the size of the turbos in terms of airflow on the site. They also have a full manual for installing the standard kit. The upgraded kit is simply higher flowing turbos with 3 inch inlets.It requires an msd starter which the standard kit doesn't.
Hp potential is basically directly related to airflow rating of the turbos. For example think the upgraded turbos are 65 pounds per minute. Times it by 10 and then by 2 so 1300 engine or like 1040 rwhp on auto at 20% loss on 1300 hp. Or 1100 or so on m6 with 15% loss. Can always run some spray on top of that many people run spray with turbos.I am going direct port as have the fast intake already.
I do kind of wish my intercooler was the original silver showing on the some of the early pics. Black is stealthy but not great looking to me. I might do the letters on mine so they stand out a bit more.I should have got the exhaust manifolds and the hot sides ceramic coated and still likely will this spring. Have to pull out turbos anyway to replace the one cracked one.
The heat shields work not but be warned they are razor sharp! And I bought expensive super high heat granatelli plug wires.
I wanted a super streetable build so went with as said 9.5 to 1. Gives more power off boost and on than 8.5 or 9.0 and no problem running it now even with no alc/meth as long as keep timing low and we have 94 octane here.
I went with lingenfelter gt7 cam very similar to z06 cams.
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
I went with yella terra 1.8 to give more lift around 590 and bit more duration.
I didn't want to go over 600 lift. I don't want to have to change out springs every 20,000 miles some some higher lift cams recommend. Pain in the butt to change out springs in the f bodies.
An ideal cam might be a bit closer split like 228/232 with maybe 590 lift and maybe 118 lsa. But whatever my cam seems to be working pretty good. No lope which I didn't want. Easy to tune for .And seems to rev out pretty good find out more on that in a few months.And ling uses this in most of their FI builds even on the bigger engines like 427 size. Very very streetable.
As noted in my sig went with afr 225 heads. They have thicker deck which can help in the pushing water department. ARP head studs. My 408 makes great power and torque from SOTP not dyno yet even off boost.
And on boost the car becomes a BEAST! Have not pushed it past 7.5 base gate boost yet. But will this coming season and have eboost2 for boost control.
For manuals you want a two step like lingenfelter makes to build boost at the line. Their gadget also has antilag features at least the newer version not sure about the older one.
Antilag and two step let you build some good boost on manual cars . I am going auto but the two step and antilag can still be useful.
You will need big fuel system of course. I am going with lonnies twin intank pump setup with bigger rails and lines of course and boost referenced reg. You will need big injectors. I got 60s to start but going up to 80s or possibly low impedence and even bigger later. You could get NASTy huge single pump Fuel setup even with custom tank. JM is selling some of his stuff in Used section. He went 9s at near 140 with his base kit on his built 402. Auto car.And only at 12psi on standard turbos.
I tune with hptuners. Going to 3 bar shortly ran maf just to break in engine and at low boost.
You need new kmember with aps kit. Bmr works fine but some are using think umi or spohn?
There is as said no difference between the kits other than the upgraded kit has the bigger turbos with the bigger inlet housings and those should not have any problems collapsing like the first standard turbo inlets did at 12psi or so.
Any other questions feel free to pm me or whatever. In general am pretty happy with my aps kit. Car is very stealthy if wanted it to be as only the intercooler neck shows you really can't see anything else when you pop the hood. I do have of course have my 1000HP liscence plate which was my engine goal hp for the kit with spray. Should be able to get that with even the standard kit and minimal or no spray. And have some nice twin turbo emblems and some 408 emblems which does sort of throw the stealth thing out the window. Besides the turbos are pretty loud when spooled up. I have electric cutout and still running stock type exhaust. The system don't come with ypipe had to buy hooker ypipe perfect fit it was ceramic coated one. I hear kooks stainless also fits. I have street pro electric cutout and b and b catback. Car is pretty quiet cutout closed but if you want to really hear the turbos just open the cutout.
The stock blow offs are pretty wimpy. First thing I did was to stop them recircing back into the inlets. I bought caps that fit perfect at home depot for table leg protectors.
I then bought turbosmart Kompact supersonics..they are pricey but like you said they are really loud! Great quality but high price but hey life isn't cheap and either are FI builds! These blow offs don't recirc they vent straight to atmosphere and are direct plug and play onto the kit. They are loud enough to wake the dead and scare old ladies off the sidewalk! LOL
I plan to. You could go maybe 9.0 to 1 if you just want to run pump premium no alc/meth. e85 works great if you have it readily available .I don't. LIke three stations in all of Canada.Its the HOTNESS for FI cars though.8.5 is more for drag only type cars. I like a bit more compression. No big deal with the combo you are looking at likey be hitting near full power under 20psi anyway.And 1000rwhp is nuts,nuts ,nuts.
408 max power should be about 1300 engine hp. If you go to aps site they talk about the size of the turbos in terms of airflow on the site. They also have a full manual for installing the standard kit. The upgraded kit is simply higher flowing turbos with 3 inch inlets.It requires an msd starter which the standard kit doesn't.
Hp potential is basically directly related to airflow rating of the turbos. For example think the upgraded turbos are 65 pounds per minute. Times it by 10 and then by 2 so 1300 engine or like 1040 rwhp on auto at 20% loss on 1300 hp. Or 1100 or so on m6 with 15% loss. Can always run some spray on top of that many people run spray with turbos.I am going direct port as have the fast intake already.
I do kind of wish my intercooler was the original silver showing on the some of the early pics. Black is stealthy but not great looking to me. I might do the letters on mine so they stand out a bit more.I should have got the exhaust manifolds and the hot sides ceramic coated and still likely will this spring. Have to pull out turbos anyway to replace the one cracked one.
The heat shields work not but be warned they are razor sharp! And I bought expensive super high heat granatelli plug wires.
I wanted a super streetable build so went with as said 9.5 to 1. Gives more power off boost and on than 8.5 or 9.0 and no problem running it now even with no alc/meth as long as keep timing low and we have 94 octane here.
I went with lingenfelter gt7 cam very similar to z06 cams.
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
I went with yella terra 1.8 to give more lift around 590 and bit more duration.
I didn't want to go over 600 lift. I don't want to have to change out springs every 20,000 miles some some higher lift cams recommend. Pain in the butt to change out springs in the f bodies.
An ideal cam might be a bit closer split like 228/232 with maybe 590 lift and maybe 118 lsa. But whatever my cam seems to be working pretty good. No lope which I didn't want. Easy to tune for .And seems to rev out pretty good find out more on that in a few months.And ling uses this in most of their FI builds even on the bigger engines like 427 size. Very very streetable.
As noted in my sig went with afr 225 heads. They have thicker deck which can help in the pushing water department. ARP head studs. My 408 makes great power and torque from SOTP not dyno yet even off boost.
And on boost the car becomes a BEAST! Have not pushed it past 7.5 base gate boost yet. But will this coming season and have eboost2 for boost control.
For manuals you want a two step like lingenfelter makes to build boost at the line. Their gadget also has antilag features at least the newer version not sure about the older one.
Antilag and two step let you build some good boost on manual cars . I am going auto but the two step and antilag can still be useful.
You will need big fuel system of course. I am going with lonnies twin intank pump setup with bigger rails and lines of course and boost referenced reg. You will need big injectors. I got 60s to start but going up to 80s or possibly low impedence and even bigger later. You could get NASTy huge single pump Fuel setup even with custom tank. JM is selling some of his stuff in Used section. He went 9s at near 140 with his base kit on his built 402. Auto car.And only at 12psi on standard turbos.
I tune with hptuners. Going to 3 bar shortly ran maf just to break in engine and at low boost.
You need new kmember with aps kit. Bmr works fine but some are using think umi or spohn?
There is as said no difference between the kits other than the upgraded kit has the bigger turbos with the bigger inlet housings and those should not have any problems collapsing like the first standard turbo inlets did at 12psi or so.
Any other questions feel free to pm me or whatever. In general am pretty happy with my aps kit. Car is very stealthy if wanted it to be as only the intercooler neck shows you really can't see anything else when you pop the hood. I do have of course have my 1000HP liscence plate which was my engine goal hp for the kit with spray. Should be able to get that with even the standard kit and minimal or no spray. And have some nice twin turbo emblems and some 408 emblems which does sort of throw the stealth thing out the window. Besides the turbos are pretty loud when spooled up. I have electric cutout and still running stock type exhaust. The system don't come with ypipe had to buy hooker ypipe perfect fit it was ceramic coated one. I hear kooks stainless also fits. I have street pro electric cutout and b and b catback. Car is pretty quiet cutout closed but if you want to really hear the turbos just open the cutout.
The stock blow offs are pretty wimpy. First thing I did was to stop them recircing back into the inlets. I bought caps that fit perfect at home depot for table leg protectors.
I then bought turbosmart Kompact supersonics..they are pricey but like you said they are really loud! Great quality but high price but hey life isn't cheap and either are FI builds! These blow offs don't recirc they vent straight to atmosphere and are direct plug and play onto the kit. They are loud enough to wake the dead and scare old ladies off the sidewalk! LOL
Thank you very much.
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02-13-2009, 02:15 PM
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ok 99ta how many times do i need to say it TOO LONG
i want to read it but im lazy LOL J/K
im looking at some aftermarket turbos for my kit no more APS junk
and 99ta dont defend them because you had some big issuse with turbos as well as i. knowing what you know now would you by the kit again?
everything good but the turbos
i want to read it but im lazy LOL J/K
im looking at some aftermarket turbos for my kit no more APS junk
and 99ta dont defend them because you had some big issuse with turbos as well as i. knowing what you know now would you by the kit again?
everything good but the turbos
What kind of problems on the turbos? And what aftermarket turbos will fit on this kit?
02-13-2009, 02:23 PM
#10
I would buy the kit again.I waited past a year to install my kit so would expect no warranty but have not talked to aps directly about it. I can buy replacement center housings supposedly with already tweaked wheels for around 400 to 500 US .They drop right into the aps compressor and exhaust housings. I can buy oil cooling only or water cooling. They are just tdo6 h mits 20 g housings.
I have one interally cracked turbo which for sure pissed me off when it just about took out new 408. Lucky caught it within first minute of running it.
But am very happy overall Tom. I like the intercooler its massive and fit great and didn't have to ridiculously hack things up. I think the intercooler pipes and inlet metal pipes and downpipes are all good quality. I like the stock type exhaust manifolds that give me decent plug access. I like tial wastegates. I don't overly like the bosch supplied blow offs but have taken care of that.
I like the aps dont use a oil scavenger pump. I wish aps had better clamps should be supplied with t bolt so likely replace them. I am not overly happy they are charging for upgraded inlet tubes. I might just stent them with 3 inch oval muffler pipe like other guy did. I am not overly happy have to tweak kit for my big front hotchkis sway bar but don't seem that hard to spacer it and shorten endlinks or put in silicone sections where the sway bar would hit.
I don't know if have overheating issues haven't had car running past 70 degrees. It was fine at that temp and don't usually drive it much past 80 degrees up in north where I live. I don't plan on driving it to Vegas.
I still might put in like Ron Davis rad and high flo water pump not a big issue.
So far am impressed with quick spool of the kit and how fast car already is. Of course have built 408 which is no slouch off boost but even at 7.5psi and 12 max timing car still impresses me.
So yes would buy it again.It kept my air conditioning. It shipped ahead of schedule and lost 2000 to GMR speed year or so before. I am a bit upset that aps had some dud f body turbos but still finding no evidence of guys with gto or corvettes with identical turbos having simiilar problems. So maybe they had a bad batch or mabye they got stuck with some chinese knockoffs not sure.
I have no reason yet to faulty their service as Peter has always been great with me when pmed him directly. I would consider getting upgraded turbos from LG which gets them done thru forced performance and might but that is pricey option.I don't really need anymore power than the standard kit combined with some spray and they spool stupid fast on my 408 and give me a great wide very streetfriendly powerband. I would be very happy to get say high 9s at near 140 from the kit off spray like JM did on his 402 auto with standard kit at like 12psi .That is more than fast enough for me.
If the upgraded kit was out when I got mine likely would have gone up to it though. Bigger inlets, more airflow potential ,better for 408 and bigger.
I have one interally cracked turbo which for sure pissed me off when it just about took out new 408. Lucky caught it within first minute of running it.
But am very happy overall Tom. I like the intercooler its massive and fit great and didn't have to ridiculously hack things up. I think the intercooler pipes and inlet metal pipes and downpipes are all good quality. I like the stock type exhaust manifolds that give me decent plug access. I like tial wastegates. I don't overly like the bosch supplied blow offs but have taken care of that.
I like the aps dont use a oil scavenger pump. I wish aps had better clamps should be supplied with t bolt so likely replace them. I am not overly happy they are charging for upgraded inlet tubes. I might just stent them with 3 inch oval muffler pipe like other guy did. I am not overly happy have to tweak kit for my big front hotchkis sway bar but don't seem that hard to spacer it and shorten endlinks or put in silicone sections where the sway bar would hit.
I don't know if have overheating issues haven't had car running past 70 degrees. It was fine at that temp and don't usually drive it much past 80 degrees up in north where I live. I don't plan on driving it to Vegas.
I still might put in like Ron Davis rad and high flo water pump not a big issue.
So far am impressed with quick spool of the kit and how fast car already is. Of course have built 408 which is no slouch off boost but even at 7.5psi and 12 max timing car still impresses me.
So yes would buy it again.It kept my air conditioning. It shipped ahead of schedule and lost 2000 to GMR speed year or so before. I am a bit upset that aps had some dud f body turbos but still finding no evidence of guys with gto or corvettes with identical turbos having simiilar problems. So maybe they had a bad batch or mabye they got stuck with some chinese knockoffs not sure.
I have no reason yet to faulty their service as Peter has always been great with me when pmed him directly. I would consider getting upgraded turbos from LG which gets them done thru forced performance and might but that is pricey option.I don't really need anymore power than the standard kit combined with some spray and they spool stupid fast on my 408 and give me a great wide very streetfriendly powerband. I would be very happy to get say high 9s at near 140 from the kit off spray like JM did on his 402 auto with standard kit at like 12psi .That is more than fast enough for me.
If the upgraded kit was out when I got mine likely would have gone up to it though. Bigger inlets, more airflow potential ,better for 408 and bigger.
02-13-2009, 02:32 PM
#11
Got the 408 emblems off ebay think it was and the twin turbo off ebay as well. Muffinbuster on ebay..great stuff think he also sells on here under different name maybe. Awesome quality will post some pics later on for you to look at.
The aps f body had some various problems. Some guys got oil coming out of them. this can be other things though besides actual turbo defect. It can be caused by not doing pcv properly, having that check valve in backwards possibly in the aps manual.It could be caused by the inlets sucking shut. Oil out of them can be caused by hurting engines ,some guys are running stock motors at pretty high boost .Stock ringlands being junk could lose one and then blow oil out of the engine.
Excessive crankcase could also cause oil out of the turbos.
I have different problem with one of mine. It had internal crack apparently in center housing. It let coolant mix with my engine oil . This was caught within a minute at initial startup of kit and 408. So hopefully no damage done. Oil was changed out like 5 times in 500 miles and was clear after first change. But for sure could have took out new 10k engine . I ran them just oil cooled for couple weeks as was hardly driving car and kept it out of boost pretty much due to not having full fuel system in the there or speed density tuning. And was being a bit nice to new motor.
Some guys have had some other problems with the turbos you can search. They are mits 20g and should be super reliable. Unless they got stuck with or bought some chinese knockoffs.
For upgrade you can change out wheels that is what forced performance does and mabye bluepriint the internals. There is really dick all in a turbo. Some wheels and c clips not much in there. But balancing is critical supposedly so not that easy to rebuild yourself as think you should pro balance the assemblies they spin at super high rpm. This might be cause of some aps problems on some f body turbos.
They might simply need to be rebalanced of course assuming no damage from wheels hitting housings type of thing.
There is tons of info on this forum start searching aps. I have pics of my install as do others.
The aps f body had some various problems. Some guys got oil coming out of them. this can be other things though besides actual turbo defect. It can be caused by not doing pcv properly, having that check valve in backwards possibly in the aps manual.It could be caused by the inlets sucking shut. Oil out of them can be caused by hurting engines ,some guys are running stock motors at pretty high boost .Stock ringlands being junk could lose one and then blow oil out of the engine.
Excessive crankcase could also cause oil out of the turbos.
I have different problem with one of mine. It had internal crack apparently in center housing. It let coolant mix with my engine oil . This was caught within a minute at initial startup of kit and 408. So hopefully no damage done. Oil was changed out like 5 times in 500 miles and was clear after first change. But for sure could have took out new 10k engine . I ran them just oil cooled for couple weeks as was hardly driving car and kept it out of boost pretty much due to not having full fuel system in the there or speed density tuning. And was being a bit nice to new motor.
Some guys have had some other problems with the turbos you can search. They are mits 20g and should be super reliable. Unless they got stuck with or bought some chinese knockoffs.
For upgrade you can change out wheels that is what forced performance does and mabye bluepriint the internals. There is really dick all in a turbo. Some wheels and c clips not much in there. But balancing is critical supposedly so not that easy to rebuild yourself as think you should pro balance the assemblies they spin at super high rpm. This might be cause of some aps problems on some f body turbos.
They might simply need to be rebalanced of course assuming no damage from wheels hitting housings type of thing.
There is tons of info on this forum start searching aps. I have pics of my install as do others.
02-13-2009, 03:02 PM
#13
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Which Turbosmart kompact supersonic bov do I buy? The 20mm or the 25mm and what is the diff? Are these bov the loudest? What about the tial 50mm. What is the diff between the two? To me the 50mm would be louder but I have no clue.
Last edited by jeremym; 02-13-2009 at 03:31 PM.
02-13-2009, 03:16 PM
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Get a tial Q welded onto the pipes. Its not the loudest valve on the market, but it flows really well, 50mm valve IIRC.
You should check out Shearer Fabrications, I saw some pics of a BAD *** lsx turbo kit on his forum today. Sick!!
You should check out Shearer Fabrications, I saw some pics of a BAD *** lsx turbo kit on his forum today. Sick!!
02-13-2009, 03:29 PM
#15
Turbosmart Kompact supersonic non recir 25mm part number FG BOV -KTSS25.Two of them will be extremely loud trust me not much louder and they are simple clamp on ,no welding or screwing around direct replacement. Just have to put a cap on the inlet pipe ,got caps at home depot it is for table leg protection exact size sorry no part number.
I have big Tial on my 97 talon its ok but you would need two this is twin turbo setup not single. Tial is great quality and reasonably loud. But turbosmart makes great stuff too. Have used their manual boost controllers and have eboost 2 now from them.
It fits perfect in the firebird center air vents.
You need starter on the upgraded kit. It is cheap enough like 250US. You might be able to use some other brand not sure think they include a bracket on the upgraded kit for the starter??
If you want to have more choice of turbos then you would need more a custom type kit. Many don't keep air in twin configuration. And many guys have lost a lot of money buying custom kits from various companies that went under on here. Not saying they will but I stick now with the big companies ,have lost too much money backing the small guy and having them go under suddenly or screw me over.
Aps might have had some problems with some of the f body turbos but as said they shipped ahead of schedule,every nut and bolt and everything fit pretty good and seemed to be of very high quality. No kit is perfect. STS had lots of things not great on their older design, ATI head units used to have problems in the past not sure about present they seem better now. Belt slippage problems not sure about that now some options for that from think aftermarket.
Whatever I didn't want to build a kit from scratch and cobble it together. I wanted to keep air, to not relocate much if anything. To have a big custom fit intercooler,to have good hot and cold side piping, to keep my spark plug access. To not have noisy recirc pump for the oil or one more thing that could fail.
I have big Tial on my 97 talon its ok but you would need two this is twin turbo setup not single. Tial is great quality and reasonably loud. But turbosmart makes great stuff too. Have used their manual boost controllers and have eboost 2 now from them.
It fits perfect in the firebird center air vents.
You need starter on the upgraded kit. It is cheap enough like 250US. You might be able to use some other brand not sure think they include a bracket on the upgraded kit for the starter??
If you want to have more choice of turbos then you would need more a custom type kit. Many don't keep air in twin configuration. And many guys have lost a lot of money buying custom kits from various companies that went under on here. Not saying they will but I stick now with the big companies ,have lost too much money backing the small guy and having them go under suddenly or screw me over.
Aps might have had some problems with some of the f body turbos but as said they shipped ahead of schedule,every nut and bolt and everything fit pretty good and seemed to be of very high quality. No kit is perfect. STS had lots of things not great on their older design, ATI head units used to have problems in the past not sure about present they seem better now. Belt slippage problems not sure about that now some options for that from think aftermarket.
Whatever I didn't want to build a kit from scratch and cobble it together. I wanted to keep air, to not relocate much if anything. To have a big custom fit intercooler,to have good hot and cold side piping, to keep my spark plug access. To not have noisy recirc pump for the oil or one more thing that could fail.
02-13-2009, 04:09 PM
#17
I couldn't agree more.
After reading through a few of his posts in their entirety, I learned he just repeats what he's said in other threads, or previous posts of the same thread. The trick to MY99TAWS6's posts is reading only the first sentence of each "paragraph," and a few words in between. If you miss something, you'll find it in a new post he'll make later.
I can type anywhere between 60 and 100 GWAM too, but being able to express one's thoughts with as few words as possible without redundancy is the true skill.
After reading through a few of his posts in their entirety, I learned he just repeats what he's said in other threads, or previous posts of the same thread. The trick to MY99TAWS6's posts is reading only the first sentence of each "paragraph," and a few words in between. If you miss something, you'll find it in a new post he'll make later.
I can type anywhere between 60 and 100 GWAM too, but being able to express one's thoughts with as few words as possible without redundancy is the true skill.
02-13-2009, 04:18 PM
#18
Well you regular guys know most of this stuff. Not everyone wants to search and search ,in fact not sure search is even working wasn't in classified the other day.
I just try to answer peoples questions as best I can. I know you had issues and complaints with your kit Greg . You were saying a lot of stuff about your kit in some of your posts that I don't happen to agree with but hey everyone has an opinion.
I always figure if people don't want to read my posts and they can be long ,fine whatever its a free world.
And I do type very very fast ,in fact go thru a keyboard in a few months ,wear the letters right off the keys.
Anyway it seems we have some people unhappy with their aps kits and others who have had near zero problems or zero problems. I took that one survey of problems but idiots were voting that didn't even own aps kits and some didn't even have ls1 cars! So that survey was not valid and deleted it.
And as said some problems like turbos smoking are not defective turbos. Gave a few of the other reasons turbos can smoke. Most all the time the problem goes away when the real problem is fixed like excessive crankcrase pressure.
Not a rookie to turbos have had many many turbo cars and bikes thru the years. And I still maintain that pretty much everything in the aps kit is high quality. Tig welding is excellent ,at least on my kit. And fabbing of parts like windshield washer tank and coolant overflow are first rate. My kit fit nice and went in very nicely. Is it perfect ..NO what is. YMMV.
I just try to answer peoples questions as best I can. I know you had issues and complaints with your kit Greg . You were saying a lot of stuff about your kit in some of your posts that I don't happen to agree with but hey everyone has an opinion.
I always figure if people don't want to read my posts and they can be long ,fine whatever its a free world.
And I do type very very fast ,in fact go thru a keyboard in a few months ,wear the letters right off the keys.
Anyway it seems we have some people unhappy with their aps kits and others who have had near zero problems or zero problems. I took that one survey of problems but idiots were voting that didn't even own aps kits and some didn't even have ls1 cars! So that survey was not valid and deleted it.
And as said some problems like turbos smoking are not defective turbos. Gave a few of the other reasons turbos can smoke. Most all the time the problem goes away when the real problem is fixed like excessive crankcrase pressure.
Not a rookie to turbos have had many many turbo cars and bikes thru the years. And I still maintain that pretty much everything in the aps kit is high quality. Tig welding is excellent ,at least on my kit. And fabbing of parts like windshield washer tank and coolant overflow are first rate. My kit fit nice and went in very nicely. Is it perfect ..NO what is. YMMV.
02-14-2009, 01:39 AM
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you know im just being a ******* about the kit. its just the driver side turbo and the inlet sucking shut that give me all of my issues. its most like just the inlet messing with the turbo. but overall it has been ok
i just some specs for a cam from Comp Cams if you want the specs let me know ill send them to you
my setup it almost the same but im running a 364 with TEA/TF225 and a LS6 intake ill post up when its up and running
im talking to LGM about centers for the turbos
99ta where are you looking at for centers
and bro you do say the same thing over a few times LOL but its ok i know what you mean
i just some specs for a cam from Comp Cams if you want the specs let me know ill send them to you
my setup it almost the same but im running a 364 with TEA/TF225 and a LS6 intake ill post up when its up and running
im talking to LGM about centers for the turbos
99ta where are you looking at for centers
and bro you do say the same thing over a few times LOL but its ok i know what you mean